I have a 98 blaster built the whole thing frame up ive had it running great the past few weeks. took tors out of it,oil injection, also cleaned the carb and checked my reeds and put a new airfilter in. Its piped with a stock silencer and has a stock jet but its cold starts no problem first kick but after riding it for 5-10 min it bogs until it dies and comes to a stop to get the bike to restart i have to pull the choke out and let it cool off for a minute fires right up what could it be? Pulled my plug out and somehow the gap for the plug doubled from what i had it. Set it back to what is was cleaned it up and still does the same thing.What could it be? Thanks for reading
blaster starts runs good then dies
- Thread starter cody 98 blaster
- Start date
If you are running an aftermarket pipe and using the stock main jet, you may be running way too lean.
A different air filter plus the reduced amount of fuel due to the addition of oil can also add to the leanness of the mix!
What pipe are you using and please list your other mods.
A different air filter plus the reduced amount of fuel due to the addition of oil can also add to the leanness of the mix!
What pipe are you using and please list your other mods.
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sounds like it's overheating and seizing until it cools off ?
has it been leakdown tested ?
you should not be running the stock 230 main jet with an aftermarket pipe !!!!
list all your mods, pipe brand, air filter, airbox, lid on, altitude and current temps ect.
and we can suggest a range of jets for you.
then you'll need to plug chop.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
do not ride it again until these have been corrected
has it been leakdown tested ?
you should not be running the stock 230 main jet with an aftermarket pipe !!!!
list all your mods, pipe brand, air filter, airbox, lid on, altitude and current temps ect.
and we can suggest a range of jets for you.
then you'll need to plug chop.....
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
do not ride it again until these have been corrected
That only controls the idle speed, and up to 1/4 throttle, you need to replace the main jet with something larger!
A plug chop confirms that the carb is jetted correctly.
The idle speed adjustment uses the screw on top of the carb in conjunction with the air screw.
Please list your mods, and ride no more until you have re jetted the carb.
The idle speed adjustment uses the screw on top of the carb in conjunction with the air screw.
Please list your mods, and ride no more until you have re jetted the carb.
Bills racing pipe thats it except aftermarket suspension. How should i do a plug chop if i cant keep it running when its warm?
- Increase your main jet by at least 6 sizes, #290 - #300 make sure the needle is on the middle clip setting.
The float level must be correct 20 to 21.5 mm
Adjust the idle speed as per specs.
Then try a plug chop.
You say it has a stock jet, but what size is it? You actually had carb apart and looked at the main jet?
#220, way too lean, up it to a #300 and plug chop back.
If you take the lid off start at #310 main.
If you have had it seize on you whilst running so lean, it may pay to remove the pipe and look up the exhaust port for piston damage.
If you find some do not start it again until you have fixed the problem with the piston.
If you take the lid off start at #310 main.
If you have had it seize on you whilst running so lean, it may pay to remove the pipe and look up the exhaust port for piston damage.
If you find some do not start it again until you have fixed the problem with the piston.
You're slipping ole man, where's the demand for leakdown test???
Ok, I'll pick up the slack
Cody, you really should (MUST) do a leak down test. I see no mention if this is a new engine or not, which doesn't matter. It's considered routene maintenance and one heck of a diagnostic aid.
This is really not debateable.
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