I have a 01 blaster, all stock, New air filter, New fuel, cleaned carb, New boyseen power reeds. It idles good starts first or second kick, it has a hesitation mid throttle in first and second gear, so if you pin it in first or second mid throttle hesitates for a couple second then goes past that and wot is fine, I will try and attach picture of my plug the porcelain looked grey colored and dry. Needle is in third position , 230 main, I moved the needle down to make it leaner, it still acted the same, also adjusted the air screw in with turn increments each way and that did not help, any ideas? I also checked for air leaks and found none
blaster not running right
- Thread starter Jaken84
- Start date
The #230 is the stock jet, any increase in airflow needs a bigger jet .
Leaning out anything with the fuel when you increase the airflow is courting disaster.
A #230 main and needle on middle clip is what you need if the motor is airtight.
Take off the lid and you must increase the main 1 - 2 sizes.
Set the idle correctly and plug chop.
................................................................................
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
..........................................................................
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
Leaning out anything with the fuel when you increase the airflow is courting disaster.
A #230 main and needle on middle clip is what you need if the motor is airtight.
Take off the lid and you must increase the main 1 - 2 sizes.
Set the idle correctly and plug chop.
................................................................................
Idle adjusting.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
..........................................................................
Plug chop.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/how-plug-chop-38674/
http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/plug-chop-how-vid-48226/
This is a good to go plug.
This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.
If it was a hole in the case, wouldn't I see it leaking? That's why I'm thinking it's a crank seal
Transmission loosing oil without tell tale marks on the floor means that the crankcase seals are poor allowing oil to be drawn into the crankase.
You need to leak test before you start it again.
You need to leak test before you start it again.
Ok thanks for everyone's advice, I think I'm going to do a leak test, of its a crank seal will I be able to see it leaking?
Place the transmission breather tube in a container of fluid, if you pressurise the carby boot and bubbles come from the tube, then there is a leak between the crankcase and the tranny.
I'm gonna make a leak down tester but does anyone know what size pipe fits the carb boot? I didn't see a size I looked around the forum, I'm not around the machine right now to check, any help would be appreciated
I did a leak down test, I pressurized to 7 psi, it lost 2 psi over 25 minutes, I put the transmission breather tube in glass of water when pressurized and would get a bubble every 20 seconds I took pressure off and it didn't bubble anymore, I ordered crank seals I'm going to put in, would this small leak be enough to cause a hesitation in mid throttle? All opinions appreciated, thanks
Any leak can cause problems, when the crank is rotating there is a possibility of more air passing the seal.
