Blaster leak

95blasta

Member
Oct 8, 2013
160
2
33
West,Tn
So I finally got around to rebuilding my top end.i had the cylinder rehoned and replaced the piston with a new 68mm Wiseco pro-lite.i bought the Wiseco top end kit so I changed all gaskets and such.i checked proper ring end gap and it was in spec.I coated all necessary items with Lucas semi synthetic 2 stroke oil as well as pouring a small amount in the crank case.during assembly I criss crossed
Bolts
 
So I finally got around to rebuilding my top end.i had the cylinder rehoned and replaced the piston with a new 68mm Wiseco pro-lite.ibought the Wiseco top end kit so I changed all gaskets and such.i checked proper ring end gap and it was in spec.I coated all necessary items with Lucas semi synthetic 2 stroke oil as well as pouring a small amount in the crank case.during assembly I criss crossed
Bolts to proper spec.So I had a day off and decided to build a leak down tester like I had seen on this forum.i think all together may $28 if that.It was so easy,I paused the video on YouTube n the guy just walked me around building it!well my end result is it won't hold pressure.its so bad that the bike pump will wear yo a$? Out pumping it to get any pressure on the gauge.i know of one leak because of a bubble coming from the vent nipple on the case.any suggestions
 
So I finally got around to rebuilding my top end.i had the cylinder rehoned and replaced the piston with a new 68mm Wiseco pro-lite.ibought the Wiseco top end kit so I changed all gaskets and such.i checked proper ring end gap and it was in spec.I coated all necessary items with Lucas semi synthetic 2 stroke oil as well as pouring a small amount in the crank case.during assembly I criss crossed
Bolts to proper spec.So I had a day off and decided to build a leak down tester like I had seen on this forum.i think all together may $28 if that.It was so easy,I paused the video on YouTube n the guy just walked me around building it!well my end result is it won't hold pressure.its so bad that the bike pump will wear yo a$? Out pumping it to get any pressure on the gauge.i know of one leak because of a bubble coming from the vent nipple on the case.any suggestions


did you disconnect the air pump from the air valve after filling? i was chasing down a leak that kept bleeding air, then i pumped it to 8 psi, disconnected the air pump, and it held pressure steady, i guess the air pump was bleeding air itself.
 
It's leaks out so fast I can't get an accurate reading

did you try a different pump? not saying thats definitely your issue, but what if the pump seals are shot and your chasing down this huge leak over nothing? its worth a shot. i can't see a leak being so big it wont even build the pressure unless you have the head off or something
 
Did you test the leak down testing unit by itself? I put a flat board over the end of my leakdown tester when I finished building it and pumped it up. In my case the leakdwon tester itself had leaks in two of the joints. I had to tighten them up extremely tight.

I wouuld test you leak down tester as a stand alone unit first.
 
Put thread tape on all Threaded parts on your leak down tester. Gauges can also have faulty seals, sprung needles, etc. Trust me on that one, I deal with 40+ gauges a day at work. Also check the valve in the Schrader Valve. It might not be tightened properly. Hope its just that easy for your leak down tester.

If you have bubbles coming out of the vent, sounds like you have a bad crank seal. If it need changed, just do both sides. You will only need seals, Flywwheel Removal tool,and a new clutch cover gasket. Fairly easy fix.

Good Luck,
Fred
 
Conclusion came to be the gauge itself.brand new gauge and leaked its axx off.i do still have a bad crank seal.i will be ordering upthem up thus weekend.as far as a flywheel remover any brands or styles to stay away from.and hardware plan on replacing the phillips cover bolts as they tend to strip,ebay replacements ok?
 
no way, they get packed with dirt/rocks/tar and you constantly have to dig the allen holes out and HOPE you can.

i prefer just regular hex head bolts, preferably stainless.

Little trick, pack them with grease, a pointy stick removes it.

Blue waterproof type looks real cool!
 
Little trick, pack them with grease, a pointy stick removes it.

Blue waterproof type looks real cool!

yea i have heard of that, but i dont want grease all over my clothes or hands whenever i handle or ride the quad, and i dont want to attract dirt to the quad with anything like that, its like using a really greasy chain lube then riding in sand. i LOVE the way allen bolts look, i've just grown sick of using picks and brushes to clean them out, especially if your like me and dont wash the bike down after a ride and before everything gets nice and hard
 
yea i have heard of that, but i dont want grease all over my clothes or hands whenever i handle or ride the quad, and i dont want to attract dirt to the quad with anything like that, its like using a really greasy chain lube then riding in sand. i LOVE the way allen bolts look, i've just grown sick of using picks and brushes to clean them out, especially if your like me and dont wash the bike down after a ride and before everything gets nice and hard

Do whatever bolts you prefer, just phillips are not the way to go. They strip to easily.

What do you ride in? my bolts dont have a spec of dirt/mud in them....
 
Do whatever bolts you prefer, just phillips are not the way to go. They strip to easily.

What do you ride in? my bolts dont have a spec of dirt/mud in them....

sand, mud, coal, you name it. maybe the guys in the dryer climates dont have as many issues, im not sure, but i've always had to dig crud out from allen bolts. even worse when you need to do a trail fix
 
I know exactly what you mean about Coal and Slate dump mud. Nasty stuff! I've ridden on dumps my whole life, and when that stuff dries, power washers have fun getting it off. Its like black concrete.