Blaster idles fine and revs fine but when riding

[BiGDawG]

and i try to full throttle it it falls on its face but only in 4 5 and 6th gear other gears it has no issues..

i just got the blaster back from the shop i had got it in pieces traded some r/c stuff for it and the previous owner cut the air box all up there's 5 slits on each side and 1 in the back + the cut the front, i have another set of plastics with no cuts i was thinking about putting on but will that effect it in any way? also the air filter will not sit right.

this is only my second 2 stroke my other was a heavily modded 85 tri-z 250 and i never had any issues with it kind of regret getting rid of it but wanted to move onto 4 wheels

i almost forgot the tors is removed from the throttle but the shop said the tors had to be plugged in or it would not get spark..

the only thing i'm missing for the other set of plastic is the part that hooks to the lid and points up

 

[speedyslyder]

snorkel is part that points up
you defnintely need to get that airfilter straightened out and have a good seal on to the intake
do you know the mods?
list them,carb settings ect
could be when it is getting shaken around alot,floats,or fuel flow problem just to name a few

 

[blasterkid1998]

did you do a leak test and compression test it?

 

[tbrooks]

I'd swap the plastics, leave the lid off and throw an outerwears cover on the filter, especially if you ride in any wet conditions. Need to ^^^ do tests and make sure its jetted properly. look up the tors delete on here, there's a few threads depending on year

 

[BiGDawG]

yea we get in some deep water lol, not sure of the mods i know it has a custom extended swing arm and aftermarket a arms, motor wise no idea other then the full fmf pipe, I paid the local shop 200 bucks to put it back together with new seals and replace what needed to be.

I did notice it would start to vibrate at high speed i could feel it in the foot pegs

how do I check the jetting? and its a 2001

and should there be something under the filter? mine's all flat so when i put the screw in there's nothing to stop it from just ripping the filter

 

[speedyslyder]

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/downloadable-yamaha-blaster-manual.17325/

there is a washer on the end of screw that screws the filter onto the intake if that is what you mean?
http://www.motosport.com/atv/oem-parts/YAMAHA/2001/BLASTER/INTAKE

 

[BiGDawG]

hmm that might help it's weird how these filters are all foam filters i bought for my 350x and the tri-z had like a plastic lining on the inside to keep there form and so they would seal better but I'll switch to the other plastics tomorrow and see if i can get it to sit right on that 1, and thanks for the manual i have the book also never though to look threw it

 

[Fast6hand]

hmm that might help it's weird how these filters are all foam filters i bought for my 350x and the tri-z had like a plastic lining on the inside to keep there form and so they would seal better but I'll switch to the other plastics tomorrow and see if i can get it to sit right on that 1, and thanks for the manual i have the book also never though to look threw it

The blaster should have a plastic cage the filter goes on.

 

[Larry's Shee]

The blaster should have a plastic cage the filter goes on.

X-2 ^^^. There should be two lips on the bottom of filter, the cage fits between those. A bit of grease on bottom of filter will help it seal. A fender washer on screw.
Need to know what you jetting is. When you clean carb write down jet numbers. Sounds like it might be lean as it starts to work harder in upper gears, BUT that could be from the air filter letting in too much air, fix that before riding again. Easy test is when you get to 4-5th gear, pull choke halfway. If it gets better you're lean, worse, to rich.

That Clymers would have saved you $200 bux

 

[Blaaster]

The very next thing you need to do before you start it again is to leak test the engine.

If it passes, check your jetting, and get Back with your list of mods.

 

[BiGDawG]

getting ready to swap the plastics how do i leak test? and I'm missing that plastic cage, guess after i swap the plastics I'll go for another short ride and if i have the same issue I'll pull the carb and check the jetting

and like i said i have no idea what the mods are it was in pieces when i got it, only thing i know for sure is the full fmf pipe and it has stickers on it for reeds and valves but who knows if they really put them on it.

 

[Blaaster]

getting ready to swap the plastics how do i leak test? and I'm missing that plastic cage, guess after i swap the plastics I'll go for another short ride and if i have the same issue I'll pull the carb and check the jetting

and like i said i have no idea what the mods are it was in pieces when i got it, only thing i know for sure is the full fmf pipe and it has stickers on it for reeds and valves but who knows if they really put them on it.

The very next thing you need to do before you start it again is to leak test the engine.

If it passes, check your jetting, and get Back with your list of mods.

I kid you not.

Take heed the next ride could be your last ride.​

 

[blasterkid1998]

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/build-and-use-a-leakdown-tester.10663/

 

[BiGDawG]

well it didn't blow up.. but switching the plastics helped a bit, then i put the lid on and no more throttle issue, but it dose still shake pretty bad only at higher speeds so i checked all the tire's noticed the front rim's are pretty beat up and bent and i need rear bearings

the air box lid dose have 2 small hole's drilled in it and some cut on the inside and missing the snorkel

i did have to use my boot from the carb to airbox as the part that hooks to the carb was larger

 

[Larry's Shee]

The "cage" is piece to left http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Blas...Parts_Accessories&hash=item339104f627&vxp=mtr
If you had to swap intake boot, you must be running a larger than stock carb.
Definately good idea to leak test but you still have to bget air filter sealed right, because that in of itsself is an "air leak". You don't need the snorkle or lid but it must be jetted correctly no matter how you set it up.

As you have found out, adding the lid changed air flow, but you still have a leak. You will develope more power without lid, but you must jet accordingly.

If you can post a pic of carb and measure inside diameter of the engine side.

 

[BiGDawG]

I can get a pic of the carb tomorrow, how would i go about measure the inside diameter of the engine?

and i don't have the tools to leak test, seems like i would see oil leaking some where if it was leaking? motor is dry everywhere

and yea i don't have that cage and the old filter was so rotted it fell apart when i tried to remove it

 

[harley1-5]

leak test is for air leaks which if you have any can make your engine lean and cause it to go boom

 

[tbrooks]

No, you can have an oil leak on the gear box and pass a leaktest with flying colors. Leaktest is to make sure your intake, cylinder, and crank, which are lubricated by your fuel, are air tight. An air leak will throw everything off so that these parts will be ruined! What was it doing in the shop? You have to pull the head to measure the bore, which you may not need to do, but from the sounds of things it may be a good idea to check it out

 

[98blaster]

You can build a leak tester for under 50 bucks, well worth every penny, when it comes to the integrity of your engine, that 50 spent on a leak tester can save you 500 on a full rebuild,

 

[BiGDawG]

ah alright, maybe i'll take it back to the shop and see if he has a leak tester but i still don't know what to do with the air filter can you buy just the cage? i tried sitting every way possible and it just won't sit right.

the reason it took it to the shop is i traded a r/c truck for the blaster in parts, needed a shift drum so i went ahead and took it to the local shop and told him to replace w/e was needed just talk to me first cause i didn't want to have a lot of money into as it sit's now i have about 800. (the r/c truck i traded i had close to 600 invested with extra parts but i had it for a good 3 years) but it has a modded swing arm and a arms not sure if motor has any mods

seems to run fine now other then the vibration but the rear bearing are pretty bad i can move the axle and the front rim's are pretty bent up.