Blaster dynoed

A trail bike with 35hp SHOULD be pulling around 65-70mph. With any less top speed than that, you'd have too much power for the woods, especially with appropriate tires. For the majority of the time, 1st and 2nd would be useless. To put it in perspective, a 250R makes 28-30hp stock. That's a 70mph machine that does pretty well in the woods.

A 35hp Blaster should be hitting around 65-70mph for a good trail setup.

At the end of the day, I always find myself needing more power. 35 is nowhere enough for me. But hey, as long as we aren't buying, who are we to question?

so many things affect how much hp there is. like said above. why dont you get another set of stock gears and or try some different tire sizes
What pipe do you run?

I'm with herp on the tight trails thing. When you're having to feather the clutch to even stay running in trails, that's when you're tight.

My kinda trails are down shifting and riding on the side of the quad, not this sitting flat and going straight crap lol.
 
Our trails are mostly old grown in logging trails, alot of rocky hills, and tight technical stuff. I do fly through them but I've been doing it for years. The Blaster is the best damn trail bike I've ever owned.
 
so this is making me question what you guys consider tight.

tight trails to me are a lot of turns and swerves for trees and roots, i only ever hit 50mph on a couple trails.

by this video, tight must mean to you wide open trails that are half a mile long.

that just what i have gathered... not trying to offend you, but that straight trail would be easy

Not many tight trails around here. But in West Virginia, tons, I'll post vids of my blaster gettin it in the tight trials
 
Wow I started a fire. Ok. I read through the posts. I'll try to answer all the questions. Its a +4 stroke hot rod crank first of all. I have 222cc of displacement. Cranking compression is 140psi right now. I can get 150 with a thinner base gasket. Cranking compression test is done without a blocked exhuast. I have the oem style base on it now like Ken recommends. The carrier bearings are fine. No resistance. Its a new wps x ring chain with new sprockets. I'm running a fmf with a q series muff. 35 pwk with a 160 main, forget what needle. CFM air box with a uni foam filter. The cfm is killing some hp. I'm running the air box just so it can deal with water on the trail. You can blast through puddles and its not effected. Illinois power sports did the dyno tune. The dyno guy uses his own street style tires for dyno testing. His dyno has been cross tested to other dynos in the country and his is accurate with in 1 HP. Yes the cfm is killing some hp, yes the new x ring chain is taking 1 or 2 hp. But still no where close to what I was told it would make. The blaster feels just as strong as when I first got the motor back three years ago.
Yes I trail ride at fast speeds. Most of the trails in upper wisconsin are wide and groomed and you can fly/drift around corners. I run the 15/38 and it tops out in rpm in 6th at 62 as the DS650 and YFZ's and 660's go flying past me. That sucks! They can't pass my Banshee. Banshee makes 62HP at 120psi cranking compression. Another set of domes are on there way to bump up the compression.
 
Sounds like you've hit close to the limit with the Blaster. That's the whole reason I sold mine. They're awesome bikes, and I"ll always have a special place in my heart for the Blaster since that's what I learned to ride on. On the other hand, after riding my RM 250 and hopping on any of my friends' blaster's, the power just isn't there for me.

They're perfect to ride in the trails, and with a few mods they're good for the track, but there's no replacement for displacement man. Expecting your Blaster to keep up with 450's and 660's is just ridiculous. MAYBE you'll keep up in the real tight stuff where the YFZ and Raptor are gonna be too big, but there's no way you'll ever keep up with them realistically.
 
Well, there ya go, that 35mm is a complete mismatch for a stock cylinder with an FMF pipe., and that 160 main is also too large , no matter what your dyno guy says .
Get a real top end pipe to match that 35, or a smaller carb, they're bucking each other as it is.
 
Last edited:
Its a KOR ported stock cylinder and reshaped head. Forgot to add that to my list of mods. 35 is what Ken recommended. The jetting is perfect per dyno tune.
 
On a stock carb, the FMF requires 4-5 sizes smaller main jet than any of the top end right bend pipes.
Right now you're running 3-5 sizes larger main than any of us running right bend pipes with 34/35 mm carbs on a stock ported cylinder. (150-155 plug chop proven)

The needle and slide # is also critical to running those carbs on a blaster, many of us have proven the DGH or CEL needle and a # 6 slide is the ticket.

I still say you're jetted too rich, plug chops don't lie, dyno's do.
and a stock or 28mm carb is better matched to the FMF pipe.

please reply with your exact jetting specs:
pilot # ____
airscrew setting___
needle ____
clip setting___
slide #____
and we already know that main is at least 3- 5 sizes too large for that pipe/stock cylinder

and what gear was this dyno pull made in ?
 
It is a gold series. Nothing has changed from when I first built it. I believe I have the number 6 slide. I don't remember what pilot and needle. I'll have to pull the carb to check them. I did multiple plug chops at wot and mid range to dial in my main and needle.
It pulled to 9K rpm. I believe he pulled sixth gear on the dyno.
 
Did you get a dyno chart, so we can see?
Was your clutch slipping?
Did you do a compression test before you went for the dyno?
Did you lift up the rear end of the bike in neutral to see if everything spins freely?
 
i'd also like to know what has changed since what you posted back in 2012 ?...................

turbowrenchhead,Mar 26, 2012

turbowrenchhead said:
I put on my 15 front sprocket and ran it in a friends field. It had enough power to pull in sixth in a bumpy field. It felt like I was flying. I haven't had a chance to top it out yet.

I dont think a 22hp blaster can run like that! :confused:
 
Clutch is not slipping. I spun the rear tires when I changed the sprockets and chain. No resistance. I did a compression check this past spring and it was 140psi. There has been no change in power since the last compression check.