Bean oil protects components!

Blaaster

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Jul 18, 2011
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eastern australia
Removed the piston and cylinder from the Blaster to fit the new ported KOR top end and this is what I found.

The engine is stock and is a 05 model, it is original and has had numerous hours of hard riding, too many to remember.

It has been running either Maxima 927 or Castrol R30 depending on availability with pre mix of 25:1 and a slightly rich AFR.

I must admit that I was very surprised that there was still evidence of cross hatching in the bore and very little carbon deposits.

There was only a little wear on the inlet side, so little that the machine marks are still visible.

I did expect some carbon buildup in the DMC header but on placing my finger in and feeling for carbon, I could find none.

I have been an avid supporter of bean oil all my many years , and this backs up my claim that "bean oil" is the bees knees when it comes to lubrication.

I will add that this engine has always been fully warmed up before riding, the pod air cleaner has always been clean and oiled and always kept leak free.

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Looks good ! R30 is hard to find in stores here, but some carry Maxima .The bean oils provide best protection available, I used R30 in roadrace karts.
 
i ran klotz bean oil and hated it. the carbon buildup was horrible. i run amsoil now and never had an issue.
 
It must be the Klotz blend that is the problem, absolutely no problems with 927 or R30, eight years of using them and no apparent carbon.

Or it is the way we tune and ride here in Aussie that keeps carbon at bay.:D:D:D
 
Know wonder ,If I remember correctly Klotz did not use a de- gummed caster base .

thats not what the klotz website says ?

  • TechniPlate® lubricity system for superior film strength and anti-scuff protection
  • Extreme Load Carrying Capacity to eliminate engine wear
  • Clean Burn™ Technology reduces carbon and residue build-up
  • De-gummed formula reduces ring sticking
  • Contains familiar Klotz Red for easy mixing and racy scent
  • Blends with gas, E-85, alcohol and nitromethane



they can keep their "racy scent" :)
 
thats not what the klotz website says ?

  • TechniPlate® lubricity system for superior film strength and anti-scuff protection
  • Extreme Load Carrying Capacity to eliminate engine wear
  • Clean Burn™ Technology reduces carbon and residue build-up
  • De-gummed formula reduces ring sticking
  • Contains familiar Klotz Red for easy mixing and racy scent
  • Blends with gas, E-85, alcohol and nitromethane


they can keep their "racy scent" :)

IF ...I remember correctly .... so I do not...I never used it.
 
IF ...I remember correctly .... so I do not...I never used it.

yep, gotta check my memory sometimes too, thats why i looked for the info.
i'd luv to know why it took out a 2 month old wiseco
 
About a year ago when Maxima was not available I changed to Castrol R30, but I did worry about the chances of carbon build up.

I fitted a WW Holden rechambered head about 6 months ago and when if found minimal traces of carbon on the piston crown I continued to use the R30, and now still no carbon buildup.

What am I doing right to keep carbon at bay, you all know that I prefer a heavy oil mix and that I always run on the richer side of optimum.

I read in many posts that bean oil has given folks a lot of problems with carbon, I cannot understand why.
 
I have just fitted a brand new Wiesco piston, I am about to see if bean oil will make it last longer than 2 months.

If Klotz kills in 2 months Maxima or R30 should be good for 3 months!:cool:
 
i have a friend that run klotz R50 in his 85, that stuff smells awesome, nasty thick out of the bottle though, idk how it is for carbon buildup and stuff but its not all that cheap
 
I too ran klotz in my daughters quad i built so the sweeter smell wouldnt bother her as much and its good lube but i tore it down over winter to find it gummed up to all hell after 2 or 3 months, i actually ended up just doing a full rebuild also excusse to give her a BBK