back firing still

[fioz600r]

interesting that you need to adjust the air fuel and idle screw. I think the idle screw on the tors is way out out of adjustment. Can you just rip it out? that is probly y the idle was out of control.

They sell a T.O.R.S. deletion kit.
Blaster tors eliminator kit W/ Idle screw kit 88-2006 : eBay Motors (item 200222489949 end time Feb-26-10 17:11:11 PST)

As for the air screw you should yurn it all the way in and then back out 1.5 turns.

 

[fioz600r]

I was wondering if you have the oil injection still on?

 

[jakerman02970]

no i put the plate in where the injection pump went. I got the billet aluminum plate from ebay, sealed it with high temp rtv and put the bolts back in. I then sealed off the carb inlet with the exisiting tube cut short and plugged that with a tight fitting roofing nail. i then disconnected the oil reservior and put in a box. I then drained the tank and added fresh gas (89 octane) and two stroke oil. I did not use yamaha two stroke allthough. i think the tors system or the throttle stop screw is out of wack maybe that is why it reved so high or a leak somewhere letting in to much air. what r u thinking about the oil injection? maybe something i missed?

 

[fioz600r]

Ok I was asking to see if the oil line on the carb was covered as if it wasnt it would cause a airleak.

Also you should run premium in it they are designed for premium

 

[jakerman02970]

no i put the plate in where the injection pump went. I got the billet aluminum plate from ebay, sealed it with high temp rtv and put the bolts back in. I then sealed off the carb inlet with the exisiting tube cut short and plugged that with a tight fitting roofing nail. i then disconnected the oil reservior and put in a box. I then drained the tank and added fresh gas (89 octane) and two stroke oil. I did not use yamaha two stroke allthough. i think the tors system or the throttle stop screw is out of wack maybe that is why it reved so high or a leak somewhere letting in to much air. what r u thinking about the oil injection? maybe something i missed?

 

[fioz600r]

I was checking to see if you covered the oil inlet hole on the carb. But you did if you didnt it would be sucking alot more air in. But I think it has to do with the tors internally.

 

[jakerman02970]

i am gonna order that kit and pull it out. I found the dyi on the forum i wil let you guys know how it goes thx for your help again james

 

[mudking]

ok, so here is my update. I removed the TORS via the DIY thread (great thread BTW: if I could rep I would). I also put a spare coil I had laying around on it.

FIRST KICK. Without giving any throttle fired up and idle'd for a few seconds (wouldnt do that before). So i kept it running, and let it warm up for 15 minutes or so. NO BACKFIRING! SWEET! it runs so much better now without the TORS! I dont have the idle quite right yet, but its much better, and closer. will actually run for a few seconds on its own before stalling out (I think I just need to tune the carb). It does rev up, and not come down right away like it should, but I think that is also in the tunning. Which there is a thread on that to. So maybe this week or next weekend I will get it tuned out good, and be riding it!

 

[blasterdemon7]

You don't want the idle to come back down real fast.That means your running lean.

 

[mudking]

but how long is to long for it to remain high? I havent riden it in like 9-10 years, but i dont remember rev'ing it, and it staying up as long as it does... Also, what do I adjust to adjust the idle. I tried moving the adjustment under the seat that the needle and plunger is connected to on top of the carb (no idea what that is), but it really seems to do nothing at all. The air flow screw does a little bit, but nothing that really seems to help the idle get higher or lower.

 

[fioz600r]

you can try to adjust it from the throttle cable on the thumb throttle. You should get a T.O.R.S. removal kit then you will have an idle screw on the side of the carb and the T.O.R.S. unit is also elimanated.

 

[mudking]

so the Tors is still on my bike then. That adjustment under the seat is still "tors" and the big thing that sits on top of the carb with the spring and plunger and needle gets replaced? sorry if its a stupid ? I just have no idea. I looked at the kit, and it looks like it has a new throttle cable in it, but dont understand what its replacing.

 

[fioz600r]

You discoonected the T.O.R.S. you didnt delete them. A T.O.R.S. Deletion kit replaces the carb cap with the T.O.R.S. unit on top gives you a new carb cap with cable adjuster, throttle cable, Tap and drill bit to install a new idle screw on the side of the carb next to the fuel line. The adjustment under the seat on the T.O.R.S. unit is the idle screw.

 

[mudking]

ah. thanks. so adjusting that screw on the "tors" is not doing anything at all then.

 

[fioz600r]

ah. thanks. so adjusting that screw on the "tors" is not doing anything at all then.

Its the stock idle screw. But it could be stripped out on the inside of the T.O.R.S. unit.

 

[jakerman02970]

it worked!!! ToRS bite hard. Now trying to come up with other things to do with the blaster. Thx everyone

 

[noejason11]

I have the same problem. there is a screw on a box above the carb (accesed under the seat) that adjusts a sensor which controls timing somehow. I was told that you can hook a multimeter to the sensor and adjust the screw to the factory setting to fix the problem. I am still trying to confirm this I have been un succesfull so far with mine.

 

[NewJerseyMI]

You do not need any kits to disengage the T.O.R.S.
Find the wire to it and simply unplug it, easy as that.
The blaster will now idle to the pace of the engine naturallly and will not be retricted by the T.O.R.S. thats why it seems like it takes longer for the idle to slow down.

Remove the T.O.R.S. thats a must. Its simply a peice of restricting problem causing garbage that can mess up your whole day trying to figure out whats the hells wrong with your bike when it fails.

It is not needed!