back firing still

[jakerman02970]

hi there everybody,


still back firing like crazy and throttle responce is very sensitive. And the blaster will not stay idling.

I have cleaned extensivly the carb with new rebuild kit. Adjusted the float to the specs, cleaned out with with compressed air.


i have checked the reeds and even brough it down to the atv dealer they look fine.

the key behind the flywheel, is in place. New gas, new air filter, new plug, new fuel lines, what the HELL@$#%$%^^&!!

can anyone give me more suggestions. Someone told me the cdi could be faulty or the exhaust is plugged Please any help!!

 

[yb200]

could be the cdi or coil....sooner or later you will have a new blasty lol

 

[jakerman02970]

i got the manual from this site and downloaded it . I will check the resistence and stuff tomorrow on the cdi when it is bit warmer right it is 10 degrees.

would the cdi cause it to back fire and run like sh*t?

what about the exhaust being plugged up? thx man again

 

[yb200]

the reason it is backfiring is because it is firing at the wrong time....its a spark/timing issue

 

[jakerman02970]

aka faulty cdi, plug, coil or plug wire huh?

 

[yb200]

or coil .

 

[sr5bidder]

^^or the fly wheel...did you "just" look at it ir did you remove and inspect the fly wheel and key to inspect

if your just looking with a flash light it could appear that the key is there but if it sheared off you won't be able to tell if its in the right spot (the crank keyway will be hidden by the fly wheel.)

 

[jakerman02970]

to remove the rotor do i need to buy those tools from yamaha. for example the rotor holding tool and the rotor puller?
what does the key do anyway... does it hold the cdi in place?

i appreciate all the help because i certainly can not bring it to a dealer with the economy lately. j

 

[sr5bidder]

the key holds the flywheel in a certain position on the crank the magnets on the flywheel activate the exciter/pickup coil that sends power and signal to the CDI for spark and timing of that spark.

you don't need a flywheel holder just a impact gun with a 17mm (I think) for the nut or stick it in gear and wack a rachet wrench with a hammer to break loose (not the best way) and a $9.99 flywheel puller tool.

 

[sr5bidder]

oh and don't buy anything from the dealer unless you have to.
here is the tool you need
Tusk Flywheel Puller | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC

 

[jakerman02970]

i will pick one up and let you know how it looks. hopefully the blasty will be running good again. thx again j

 

[mudking]

I have the same exact issue. LOL. followed your thread to this point. I am getting a flywheel puller from my dad (sells cornwell tools). So I am going to do that now, and tell you what I find. I have gone through everything on this damn bike.

100% tore carb apart, and replaced everything I could thing to replace... It can a be a fuel issue. There is way to much backfiring going on... is there a way to set the timing?

 

[jakerman02970]

this sucks
checked the key it looked good. Took the flywheel off with the tool. changed the coil with the spark plug wire attached and tryed that. cleaned all the teminals were the ground is, checked all the wires and cleaned them. plugged the old oil injection on the carb real good so no leaks,

it seemed to run better up and down the street, actually idled for a change but very high. So checked air screw and turned it all the way in to carb and out 1.5 turns. Then screwed the other one under the seat a little bit then the thing went like a million rpm, pulled the plug it kept running, then pulled the starter plunger to shut it off. I probably blew the freaking motor or something.

Any other suggestions to follow. Also i changed the plug to brand new ngk.

the carb was also cleaned out with compressed air and new carb rebuild kit put in.

 

[jakerman02970]

this sucks
checked the key it looked good. Took the flywheel off with the tool. changed the coil with the spark plug wire attached and tryed that. cleaned all the teminals were the ground is, checked all the wires and cleaned them. plugged the old oil injection on the carb real good so no leaks,

it seemed to run better up and down the street, actually idled for a change but very high. So checked air screw and turned it all the way in to carb and out 1.5 turns. Then screwed the other one under the seat a little bit then the thing went like a million rpm, pulled the plug it kept running, then pulled the starter plunger to shut it off. I probably blew the freaking motor or something.

Any other suggestions to follow. Also i changed the plug to brand new ngk.

the carb was also cleaned out with compressed air and new carb rebuild kit put in.

 

[mudking]

dude mine did the SAME F'ing thing. rev'd and stayed turned key/killed cut off switch still stayed running. I covered the intake whole which finally killed it after 30 seconds or so...

I was afraid to start it back up. So I replaced the whole throttle cable and plunger/needle assembly, and the throttle seems to work better, but no change in how it runs. Me and my dad fab'd a puller, but it didnt work that flywheel is on there pretty good. gonna call a buddy today to see if he has a puller. not real sure what else to do...

 

[jakerman02970]

good morning

any more advice for this blaster. I last posted that the blaster was completely gone through like everyone said. even bought the puller for the flywheel. i cleaned all the terminals and such. it seemed to run better then i adjusted the carb air screw then the big screw below the seat (attached to top of carb) and the thing sky rocketed to like million rpm. is the throttle electric component gone bad? rev limiter or what ever it is called. Maybe the carb got stuff in it after i cleaned and rebuilt it. Please any more suggestions! thx james

 

[fioz600r]

Inside the T.O.R.S. where you adjust the idle screw there is a threaded nut it could be stripped. Can you adjust it all the way? does it tighten or just keep spinning?

 

[jakerman02970]

now with the flat head screw on the tors... should the screw be in or out? i know the air fuel screw goes in then 1.5 out. What is the tors setting of hand? Is the tors maybe causing the timeing/back firing issues, now completely out of control reving?

i need my blasty back running i kn ow the d bag messed with it over the summer when he had it. But who knows what he did.

 

[fioz600r]

That screw on top of the T.O.R.S. is the idle screw. If it is stripped inside the housing it will cause an air leak and make it rev out of control.

 

[jakerman02970]

interesting that you need to adjust the air fuel and idle screw. I think the idle screw on the tors is way out out of adjustment. Can you just rip it out? that is probly y the idle was out of control.