anything over half throttle is useless...

[mastuhblastuh]

Guys... im at a complete loss here... i have 1 or 2 previous threads on my issue and to keep it simple i created a new one thats up to date with all the stuff i have tried to fix the issue. il leave them up unless anyone objects so maybe the information posted may help someone else down the road.


HERES WHAT I GOT FOR YA:
TORS delete
parking brake delete
oil injection delete (mixing 32:1) and (oil port on carb is capped)
finally got a genuine mikuni. my previous diagnosis was that it was running lean so i upped the main to a 240
has a different silencer. i was told it came off a dirtbike.
Air box cover is gone.
although it does need a new filter, for troubleshooting purposes i cleaned the hell out of it and rinsed it with gas several times..

Things i tried:
new plug
cleaned the power wire to the coil
adjusted the needle (its now 2nd from the bottom and it didnt help at all
new fuel line with no filter (to promote the best flow possible)
checked the float. its fine
checked the petcock. its fine.
checked the gas cap vent. its fine. although it had a decent amount of resistance to it, it shouldnt be free flow should it? i drained the tank by just taking the line off the carb and letting it drain into a gas tank and it had plenty of flow. drained the tank in a little over 5 minutes

AS OF NOW...
the only 2 things i can think of that would be left is a case leak, or maybe the silencer needs repacked... i havent done either yet (i know i know.. leak down should be first) but i cant get my hands on a radiator pressure tester readily and when i get the chance to trust me... im going to.
the bike runs like it should up to about half throttle. once you get to half throttle it just falls on its face... then you let off the throttle back behind half throttle and it starts runnin again!

i know its a lot of information... i tried to organize the best i can but im at a loss here guys... next thursday im going to have a buddy of mine who is the parts dealer at JMP cycle come check it out and tell me what it thinks. every bone in my body tells me its a fuel/air mix issue and i just have no clue what else it could be?? i checked the plug before my most recent run and it actually had a really good color... and also, it idles great, and revs up great without a load on it.

side note: when i got the bike the parking brake sensor was already gone... but while i was replaceing the headlight, i noticed an orange wire with some sort of stripe design that was unplugged and i couldnt find out what it went to.. im thinking it went to the parking brake sensor but i thought there was 2 for that? could this have anything to do with it???

somebody PLEASE have the same problem i have and rescue me...
any questions at all please ask...
thanks a million in advance guys.

 

[best]

Guys... im at a complete loss here... <SOME SNIPPED>
the bike runs like it should up to about half throttle. once you get to half throttle it just falls on its face... then you let off the throttle back behind half throttle and it starts runnin again!
<MORE SNIPPED>
every bone in my body tells me its a fuel/air mix issue and i just have no clue what else it could be?? i checked the plug before my most recent run and it actually had a really good color... and also, it idles great, and revs up great without a load on it.
<MORE SNIPPED>

I tend to agree with you, mixture problem, specifically the main jet circuit.
It is not spark because it revs up without load, the spark is there at rpm.
Plug has good colour because you are only able to run in the range where the mixture is right.

First of all, is there anything wrong with the carb?
Plugged main jet circuit or a crack or leak in that circuit?
If nothing is wrong with the carb, I'd suggest your main jet is too far out of range, rich or lean.
If you think it is too lean, make a bold jump. 260, 280? does it get better or worse?
Make your lean jumps a bit more carefully.

Steve

 

[82cutty]

Is the washer under the main jet ? If not that will cause havoc with jetting problems and run like crap . What pipe is on this ? 240 sounds a bit lean with pre-mix and air box lid delete . Also make sure the cap at the end of the plug wire is in good shape too .

 

[speedyslyder]

just because it sparks does not mean it is a strong enough spark under LOAD
the effin orange wire that was hacked..WHEN YOU BOUGHT IT goes to the ignition coil from cdi
or research that for more accurate description.
get off the carb problem it will not sound like your video does.
i have ran a 230 main with your same setup and then went back to my house 1min away
and immeditely swithced it to a 320 main and it did not effect or sound the way yourS did.
this was just a short experience.

YOU CANT KEEP CHASING A CARB PROBLEM WITH NO LUCK...

either break out a Multi Meter or pay to have it diagnosed LIFE IS TO SHORT.
just bustin balls but seriously if you cant figure it out then well at least you are learning about it.

what is COMPRESSION TEST AT??????
HAVE YOU LOOKED THROUGH THIS??????\/\/

SORRY IF THIS SOUNDS MEAN BUT IM SPITTING THE TRUTH OR AT LEAST MY OPINION?
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/

 

[Awk08]

adjusted the needle (its now 2nd from the bottom and it didnt help at all

I've never needed anything but the middle clip position on the needle when using a stock carb on stock or even piped/modified blaster engines.

the float measured correctly ? (measure with gasket removed)
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

choke isn't pulled out at all ?
does it get better or worse if you pull the choke when it's acting up ?

hows the reeds ? no cracked/chipped petals ?
stock curved reed stop used ?

remove the silencer and see if that effects it for a very short rip.
repacking does not effect anything but sound


just remembered......I fought a problem like this for weeks way back when I ran a stock exhaust, that cast iron baffle inside had broken loose and was wedged in there sideways, it would run good up until full throttle.
remove pipe and rattle and bang it around a little to see if you can hear that baffle clunking around in there,
if so it's a good time for a pipe upgrade...... like that Toomey I have for sale


I also had a problem in the wiring harness once, there's a 3 way soldered ground connection in the harness under the front of the fuel tank, that solder joint had rubbed thru the tape and was shorting to a power wire


just some ideas I didn't see posted above

 

[speedyslyder]

in your previous posts there is wires all over the place.
Answer these question PLEASE..........

what is your compression?
do you own a compression tester?
do you own a multimeter?
IS there any aftermarket electrical components on it at ALL?
still never answered me on whether you have a 4 wire stator or 5 wire stator?

the sound of your video..To me... at least sounds like low compression or not strong enough current=spark

but im not there with you soooo trying to help internet wise.

let your buddy at parts store look at it first before going any further?

 

[speedyslyder]

I AM not saying this is accurate
but seriously....ORANGE WIRE???????
REASEARCH THAT

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/wire-harness.22866/

 

[speedyslyder]

for you just in case?

 

[mastuhblastuh]

I tend to agree with you, mixture problem, specifically the main jet circuit.
It is not spark because it revs up without load, the spark is there at rpm.
Plug has good colour because you are only able to run in the range where the mixture is right.

First of all, is there anything wrong with the carb?
Plugged main jet circuit or a crack or leak in that circuit?
If nothing is wrong with the carb, I'd suggest your main jet is too far out of range, rich or lean.
If you think it is too lean, make a bold jump. 260, 280? does it get better or worse?
Make your lean jumps a bit more carefully.

Steve

steve, the carb is new to ME. i renovated it when i got it and the 240 main i put in it is brand new. only reason i started at 240 is because the stock 230 i was suggested to upgrade because im missing the airbox cover but thats about all the mods to the bike there are. i guess it wouldnt hurt to go rich and see whats up but my question is if i have to go that rich is it suckin in air from somebody else... i strongly doubt i need to lean it out... when i had the chinese carb on it and i raised the needle one clip it seemed to help out a lot!

 

[mastuhblastuh]

Is the washer under the main jet ? If not that will cause havoc with jetting problems and run like crap . What pipe is on this ? 240 sounds a bit lean with pre-mix and air box lid delete . Also make sure the cap at the end of the plug wire is in good shape too .

stock pipe, and yes it does have the washer under the main! HOWEVER.. now that you mention it i did have to take the washer off the chinese carb i used to have on it and slightly reem it so a mikuni would fit in it. now that you mention pre mix does that really make that much of a difference without oil injection? parts guy at jmp said he deleted his oil injection and runs a 240 and it runs fine. granted he has his air box lid... hmmmmm interesting!

 

[Blaaster]

Orange wire is from the CDI to the coil....

Not to be confused with the yellow/red which is from lighting coil to the headlight switch..

 

[mastuhblastuh]

just because it sparks does not mean it is a strong enough spark under LOAD
the effin orange wire that was hacked..WHEN YOU BOUGHT IT goes to the ignition coil from cdi
or research that for more accurate description.
get off the carb problem it will not sound like your video does.
i have ran a 230 main with your same setup and then went back to my house 1min away
and immeditely swithced it to a 320 main and it did not effect or sound the way yourS did.
this was just a short experience.

YOU CANT KEEP CHASING A CARB PROBLEM WITH NO LUCK...

either break out a Multi Meter or pay to have it diagnosed LIFE IS TO SHORT.
just bustin balls but seriously if you cant figure it out then well at least you are learning about it.

what is COMPRESSION TEST AT??????
HAVE YOU LOOKED THROUGH THIS??????\/\/

SORRY IF THIS SOUNDS MEAN BUT IM SPITTING THE TRUTH OR AT LEAST MY OPINION?
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/


View attachment 29394

oooh heres some more good info! im not made of glass my man i like to here it how it is. i have not given it a compression test because i am comfortable with the amount of force i have to give it to kick it over. especially after its warmed up. that being said maybe i should just to know... it starts super super easy. since i got a genuine mikuni and replaced the chinese garbage on it im just trying to zone the jetting in before i get to carried away. with that being said i wish i had the ability to do a leak down first and for most... but iv dealt with many many vacuum leaks and it just doesnt seem like one... snap the throttle shut and it comes right back down to idle and purrrrs away! i am however, going to read the hell out of that link you gave me and check out electrical next time i get a chance!!

 

[mastuhblastuh]

I've never needed anything but the middle clip position on the needle when using a stock carb on stock or even piped/modified blaster engines.

the float measured correctly ? (measure with gasket removed)
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/float-heights-and-how-to-adjust-them.50565/

choke isn't pulled out at all ?
does it get better or worse if you pull the choke when it's acting up ?

hows the reeds ? no cracked/chipped petals ?
stock curved reed stop used ?

remove the silencer and see if that effects it for a very short rip.
repacking does not effect anything but sound


just remembered......I fought a problem like this for weeks way back when I ran a stock exhaust, that cast iron baffle inside had broken loose and was wedged in there sideways, it would run good up until full throttle.
remove pipe and rattle and bang it around a little to see if you can hear that baffle clunking around in there,
if so it's a good time for a pipe upgrade...... like that Toomey I have for sale


I also had a problem in the wiring harness once, there's a 3 way soldered ground connection in the harness under the front of the fuel tank, that solder joint had rubbed thru the tape and was shorting to a power wire


just some ideas I didn't see posted above

Awk, i just renovated the wiring harnes to remove the tors then i taped everything back up real nice and i did not notice anything.. but i did not look for it either!! that pipe idea is a good idea! il have to try that for sure!

i have not tried using the choke while its running with the new carb... it died once it was warm with the old carb but next time i get it out il try that also!! i believe it is the stock housing for the reeds but reeds themselves im not sure... theres some red gasket sealer in there so i know its been messed with either to check or new but im scared to take it out because i wont have a gasket for it...

last my buddy was having an issue with his yz125 and he wound up fixing it by repacking his exhaust... i have never ran into this myself and im not sure how well i believe it either but at this point im willing to try anything

all very good ideas and i appreciate the help!

 

[mastuhblastuh]

in your previous posts there is wires all over the place.
Answer these question PLEASE..........

what is your compression?
do you own a compression tester?
do you own a multimeter?
IS there any aftermarket electrical components on it at ALL?
still never answered me on whether you have a 4 wire stator or 5 wire stator?

the sound of your video..To me... at least sounds like low compression or not strong enough current=spark

but im not there with you soooo trying to help internet wise.

let your buddy at parts store look at it first before going any further?

slyder, forgive me for sounding off... but i dont remember posting a video??? the wiring harness on mine is all back together taped up and ziptied neatly to the frame!

i do own a multi meter and compression tester. however, i have not given it a compression test yet. as far as i know electrically, there is nothing on it aftermarket at all and the stator, i wanna say is a 5 wire but il need to look to be sure.

and yes!! the orange wire on the coil its self!! parts guy said if it gets sh*tted up it may not be able to supply the power it needs to run right so i cleaned the hell out of it. it was definitely very dirty... couldn't have hurt any

 

[mastuhblastuh]

you guys are all awesome. thanks a bunch for giving me the time to share your experience and help a brother in need out!! please feel free to message me direct if it gets confusing in here because i can see how it could become that way easily!!! you guys rock!!

 

[speedyslyder]

ok you got me on the video thing lol
i got confused with another thread i was
responding to.

i guess your next step would be to do a compression test
and take reeds out and look at them.

 

[mastuhblastuh]

ok you got me on the video thing lol
i got confused with another thread i was
responding to.

i guess your next step would be to do a compression test
and take reeds out and look at them.

now... i was told, from the dick bag who traded me the blaster that it has a new top end... although it was dirty n what not, it did seem to take quite a bit of force to turn it over... but... i have nothing to compare it to since i have never tried to kick over another blaster. i will get the compression tester tonight and a volt meter.

i believe you are the one who posted the diagram for the coil so il for sure test that. if that checks out what else am i checking? should i read voltage while its running on different circuits or just ohm them out?

 

[mastuhblastuh]

GUYS!!! one thing i did forget to mention is that both the headlight and the tail light are very dim when they are on. even when reved up... considering electrical isnt fully eliminated yet does anyone think this may be a sign that something else is wrong??

 

[mastuhblastuh]

Ok guys heres some updates. Im On my way to go get the compression tester and volt meter but what i have attached are the color of my plug, a pic of the orange wire on the coil i cleaned (wire looks black because of the protective sleeve on it but if you look close its orange) and finally the wire i had mentioned earlier left unplugged which is resting on top of the voltage reg in the pic. Just to help you guys understand where im at!! Il get back in an hour or so with compression readings and the electrical check! Last thing the stator has 4 wires on it not 5!!

 

[mastuhblastuh]

I have another update! Conpression test came out to be 125 psi. (A bit lower than i thought) i did some testing on the coil and boot... both of them showed a much lower resistance that the manual called for... another thing i noticed while checking the secondary coil is that when i pulled my meter out of the end of the plug wire a bunch of the wires came out with it!! Hmmmmm... for giggles, i plugged it all back up and kicked it a couple times to look at the color of the spark and its a nice blue color... i didnt check before i did the ohms check what color the spark was and i probably should have but the spark its self SEEMED fine. Im still kind of convinced im not running a good 15:1 fuel/air ratio which is whats ideal... last thing i wanna do before i get to a serious tear down is a case leak test.. im hoping i can rent a gage today and make it happen! I already have a expandable freeze plug forbtthe exhaust port... just need to get the tester