An unsettling sound

deeeebeeeeee

Member
Aug 20, 2015
367
128
90
44
Rossville, Ga
Initially I found my blaster to be a bit noisy, to me it sounded like i was hearing the reeds working at idle. Should I expect to be able to hear the reeds? Later after several hours of riding and tinkering (only time she ran truly loan is if I forgot to turn on the fuel) everything actually sounded pretty good.

The other day when I was trail riding I ended up winding it out really tight on a long straight thinking I was in 6th, wrong I still had another gear to go as I was in 5th. Thought I heard a little tick from the engine, at low rpm in neutral with no load. Watched my rpms for the next little while and it went away / maybe was my imagination.

Recently I pulled the flywheel cleaned everything up put on a new case gasket. Even though I used blue lock tight on the stator plate bolts as well as the flywheel nut. I have been listening carefully for any signs of loosening. And noticed two things one was a bit of vibration as the rpms spin down, after revving the motor in neutral, and a tap at idle that seemed like maybe one of the rod bearings, except it didn't really follow the motor when revved it seemed to go away. I immediately pulled the left case cover and checked the flywheel to find it was solid as a rock. I did notice when I moved the flywheel by hand there was a slight click after a couple mm when changing the direction I was turning it (i felt it had to be the main drive gear on the basket, moving to mesh with its mate.) If a bearing had that much slop it would have blown at 3k rpm or less.

I noticed that there is one sound while in neutral with the clutch engaged, but also another sound I can hear with my ear near the jug. I cannot tell if it is a reed sound or possibly the wrist pin.

Not asking anyone to give away their secrets, but what would I expect a wrist pin to sound like if it were that? (As maybe compared to a wrist pin sound of a 4cyl car),
Any way to narrow things down other than pulling the top end?
Also about a little bit of motor gear noise in neutral, does that indicate any particular problem or condition or is it likely a normal sound. Both sounds are faint and would not have been noticed unless I had really been listening

I haven't done Compression or leak tests but outward signs point to reasonable compression and no major leaks.
Plenty of power down low, and a steady afr whether barely warm or running for hours.
I run 32:1 Quicksilver (for premix or Injection) / 93 octane no ethanol pumpgas.
And don't really have anything special done to it. Jetted, piped, -airbox cover.

Eventually I will end up pulling the top end, and clutch cover. As I have been thru about everything else.
But right now I am primarily concerned with any reliability issues. I enjoy riding the bike, but it's really for my boys the oldest who is half afraid of it, and the younger 10 yr old who weighs 70 lbs soaking wet and isn't afraid of the bike as much as he is stalling it on a hill w/o rear brakes. Either of them could care less about a couple horse, but let It quit running.......

Maybe I am just being paranoid, I wish I had a good high quality microphone, I tried to record the sounds with my phone and tablet and couldn't hear anything even though I knew what I was listening for.
Thanks in advance for any help you can give.
DeeBee
 
It usually starts good 2-3 kicks. But piston slap fall in line with I have found so far, I could see someone taking a blown motor using a bottle brush style hone to clean up the cylinder and throwing a new piston and rings in it. Micrometer what's that, dial gauge nah IF it wasn't round I could see it. Lol I doubt it is that bad. But i have seen alot of "mechanics" do stuff like that.

I have noticed when it's been running for an hour or so steady, if I stall it and immediately go to restart. It is a little bit stiff to kick as well as doesn't want to pick up.

Probably best not to run it too hard, I really have been pretty leery about winding it tight, can put my finger on it but it just feels like it would be easy to Rev it hard enough to do some damage.
Not much I can do but ride it or tear it down I guess?

I probably need to get a cylinder jug, head and have them worked up and get a piston and top end set and seals to match. And be ready for that day. Maybe if I am lucky I can get away without splitting the cases?
 
Last edited:
Take the header pipe off and look up the port for signs of piston damage.
Thanks never thought of doing that.

My youngest finally got brave enough to climb the hill behind the house (4 of 10 difficulty, 7 of ten if it's really wet) he was so anxious that he didn't realize he hadn't shifted , fortunately he didn't hold it down rather nearly free revved from 7k to 10k about all the way up the hill. Started it this morning and I now have no doubt the big end of the rod is pecking.

About to check the piston as well.

If i have to crack the cases and redo the bottom end, what should I do about the top?
If it's in spec can I just have it honed, rearing it and but a new bearing in the wrist pin?
Or is is somewhat mandatory to go say .010" over and get a new piston? What piston? Stock? High comp.

I don't plan on doing anything much with the cylinder and ports as far as making power goes, possibly clean it up a bit.

I read something on here that talked about clearances and such, and I think the tolerances for piston clearance, bore dia, constancy roundness etc.
I have 4 kids and would prefer to avoid having to sendIng it off.
 
OK so I removed the silencer, pipe then header. And found that the exhaust gasket between the motor and header was leaking.
To me It looked like they had mounted the pipe to the frame and header and then bolted the header up,. (Maybe they left the exhaust mounted to the bike and unfolded the header to pull the motor.) The loose leaky side of the header and the gasket pushed crooked both in the same direction the pipe wants to pull.
Any how there is a dark spot on the right front of the piston skirt directly behind the header leak, and evidence the it had rubbed on that side only in the front and I can see a single rub line on the back of the cylinder wall directly behind the leak.

Correct me if I am wrong but it looks like the head leak has allowed air to be pulled in causing fuel to continue to burn which heated up the piston in the spot where the fuel was burning. During a long ride it caused the right side of the skirt to get quite a bit hotter than it was supposed to and expand and tighten up in the cylinder. I can remember restarting the motor once I the middle of an hour long trail stint when it stalled, and once when I went by the lot at the end of the stint, and immediately restarted to take my girl for and little ride. Both times it was quite stiff to kick..
Maybe I and crazy /\ and my logic is alol wrong, but I think this is what was going on the other day when I thought I noticed something , but it went away after the motor sit and cooled for a while.
The piston skirt did have a layer of oil in this spot, and doesn't appear to be rubbing curently, the gasket has been replaced and the header properly seated and torqued. I am sure I lost a few psi on a compression test although I can tell it as far as kicking it over, or power output goes.

How can I tell for sure, if the big end, or main bearings are bad. By looking at a parts diagram I am going to guess the main crank bearings are pretty tough as compared to the needle bearings on the rod.

Now that I know the piston has rubbed the cylinder wall, does that guarantee I will have to bore the cylinder? I couldn't feel the marks on the piston skirt with my finger.
Id did my best to get a pic of it.

20150829_134116.jpg

You can see the brown burnt looking spot on the right of the piston and a rub line or two coming up off of it, also you can see how the exhaust gasket is crooked enough that it can't touch the header.

Question is what now? I wouldn't worry much about it but I am sure it is the rod bearing tapping I can feel the tap in my clutch actuator.
Not sure what to do, I am betting the Ole lady is going to want to sell it if she thinks it needs rebuilt. But if we keep riding it i am afraid of doing more damage, wearing the crank, cracking the case etc.

Here is a pic or two with the piston down I was trying to catch the line on the back right (with respect to the picture) of the cylinder wall.
20150829_134242.jpg
 
What tools does it take to do the bottom end?
Case splitter
Fly wheel puller (have)
Crankshaft puller


Then I will need complete gasket and seal set
Full bearing set.
Rings and circuits
Possibly a new piston, cylinder bored

What's the chances I can get by without having to rebore the cylinder and buy a new piston?

Brakes, tires, and A-arm bushings were all I needed to have this thing right. Now I am going to have to rebuild way sooner than I hoped :(
 
If the pipe was leaking if was also drawing in unwanted debris. It could just be something got in there causing the marks. My piston had light marks as well. Only on the header side. At the time I was running a LRD which are notorious for leaking. Mine to couldn't be felt with a finger. It's hard to say.

Now my opinion may vary from others. But, enjoy it. Ride it. Don't get sucked in with every little thing. Otherwise your gonna spend a whole lot of time fixing things (that may not need to be) and not riding.

If you have good compression, and a leak free motor that's jetted right, I say ride it til you really need a rebuild.
 
image.jpg
image.jpg
image.jpg



The piston seem to show no signs of overheating, but that is no guarantee that it is not worn.

It may pay to remove the reed block and check the skirt of the piston for cracks.

If you are concerned about the rod bearing, remove the cylinder and check the clearances.

Your only cost will be gaskets to put it back together.
 
Last edited:

After watching these vids I realized the little dust guard that goes on the clutch shaft between the case and actuator is missing, as well as my main jet washer.
If anyone has a spare actuator/clutch rod seal/cover, I would be happy to pay to post it my way, as well as a nominal fee if needed.
As for the main jet washer I had some super thin spacers that fit well except they are a few tenths of a mm thick, not knowing the thickness of the original washer I stacked a few to about the thickness of an average washer of that size , installed them and the main and retuned the needle and air screw for there.
As expected the needle needed to come down a little, the air screw ended up 1/2 to 3/4 turn leaner. After retuning it seemed to clean up a little spot I the throttle between just over 1/4 and 1/2 or a little more. Allowing a bit more low power control.
I am thrilled that i found this forum , with the info found here and alot of trial and practice, I was able to tune the jet needle, and air screw in about the same amount of time it takes me to get the motor good and warmed up.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: Fast6hand
i measured a main jet washer for someone on here before.
it measured with digital calipers to be 1/16 of an inch
i still have the main jet washer and calipers lol:)
also advised him to buy a new 1 if possible
 
  • Like
Reactions: deeeebeeeeee
i measured a main jet washer for someone on here before.
it measured with digital calipers to be 1/16 of an inch
i still have the main jet washer and calipers lol:)
also advised him to buy a new 1 if possible

Awesome that was a quick response, I will probably leave it the way it is until I get an actual washer, it's no wonder I had so much trouble getting the transition between the pilot /air screw and the needle ranges. I had almost decided that I needed to change out the slider, couldn't figure out why, from reading it seems very few people felt the need to change it.
Thanks again.