Air box lid

Clip should be in the middle. If it runs better with the lid off it alludes that you have a problem of being rich, it could be in part to the warm temps combined with a high elevation??? causing it to be rich. I'm not an expert on jetting, so maybe someone else can chime in on that. Did you check the float levels? Also what kind of air filter and you might have put too much oil on it. How does it idle, does the idle screw make much difference? I know it seems that taking the lid off just fixes your problem, but if whatever is causing you to run rich changes than it will be rebuild time before you know it!
 
Here I stole this from blaaster on another thread, they might be helpful
To ensure that the correct AFR is delivered to the engine one must do all of the following.

Leak test, often.
Set float level.
Clean all jets/passages in carb.
Set idle.
Clean air filter.
Make sure that there are no leaks/blockages in either exhaust and inlet passages, including carb nipple and cap.
Check the fuel flows freely through float bowl drain whilst the engine is running.
Check tank vent for blockage.
Make sure the is no flooding.

The float level should 20 - 21.5 on a stock carb, now set the idle as follows.

Idle adjusting.


Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain when the screw is cracked open.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

You need not touch the air screw again, except marginally if it bogs when giving it throttle.

The middle clip is the most common place on the needle.

If that is a DMC header pipe the you are way too lean with a #230 main, the pipe alone calls for a #260.
 
The temp is like 85 and I dont have a problem at all it works better with it off....im not sure about the clip...where should that be...

And oil injects itself
Clip should be in the middle. If it runs better with the lid off it alludes that you have a problem of being rich, it could be in part to the warm temps combined with a high elevation??? causing it to be rich. I'm not an expert on jetting, so maybe someone else can chime in on that. Did you check the float levels? Also what kind of air filter and you might have put too much oil on it. How does it idle, does the idle screw make much difference? I know it seems that taking the lid off just fixes your problem, but if whatever is causing you to run rich changes than it will be rebuild time before you know it!
Okay um Im not sure on what kind of air filter...so I have a problem since I have more power with it off? ?
 
.so I have a problem since I have more power with it off? ?

No necessarily, it is not about power, it is about having the correct jetting.

Taking the lid off May just put you on the wrong side of lean.

Pro tuners who jet for racing often jet lean, it produces more power, but it come as at a cost, a lean mix produces excessive combustion chamber heat which will eventually cook the piston.

Perform a plug chop to see where your jetting is at!
 
[QUTE="Blaaster, post: 735863, member: 15027"]No necessarily, it is not about power, it is about having the correct jetting.

Taking the lid off May just put you on the wrong side of lean.

Pro tuners who jet for racing often jet lean, it produces more power, but it come as at a cost, a lean mix produces excessive combustion chamber heat which will eventually cook the piston.

Perform a plug chop to see where your jetting is at![/QUOTE]
So In hot weather I want less combustion to keep it cooler??? Because its gets super hot
 
Running a richer mixture will make it run cooler.

Getting super hot is possibly that you are running way too lean, or have an air leak.

Leak test and plug chop before you ride it again.

There is no such thing as more or less combustion, the air/fuel ratio must be correct to provide an optimum burn.

Too lean a mix will create excessive heat within the combustion chamber which will fry the piston.

Too rich a mix will not allow the fuel charge to completely burn and power will suffer.

As stated before a mix just on the wrong side of lean will produce awesome power, but the piston will be subjected to excessive heat and melt.

Temperature, humidity and elevation has a great amount of say when it comes to jetting.

The higher the temp and elevation the less fuel is needed to provide yore correct amount of fuel.

Lower temps and elevation, more fuel is needed in the mix.

What exactly are your mods and the temp and elevation you are trying to jet for, tell all mods either to the inlet and exhaust, and what oil to fuel ratio, what oil and spark plug.

List the lot so we can get to the bottom of this matter!
 
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Running a richer mixture will make it run cooler.

Getting super hot is possibly that you are running way too lean, or have an air leak.

Leak test and plug chop before you ride it again.

There is no such thing as more or less combustion, the air/fuel ratio must be correct to provide an optimum burn.

Too lean a mix will create excessive heat within the combustion chamber which will fry the piston.

Too rich a mix will not allow the fuel charge to completely burn and power will suffer.

As stated before a mix just on the wrong side of lean will produce awesome power, but the piston will be subjected to excessive heat and melt.

So if I was to get the jet just right would it make me lose power?? Just like with the lid on?
 
Was it getting "super hot" before or after you removed the lid ?

Even totally bone stock, if you remove the lid you have to increase the main jet.

I suggest you look at this: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/jetting-101-everything-explained.1625/

Two strokes are very picky with their air/fuel ratio. As they go from slightly rich to "perfect", power will increase slightly and all is good. As you go from perfect to lean(er) power will increase and so will exhaust temps. Go lean, power will drop off very little but exhaust temps will shoot up drasticly. You would be looking at 1200* to 1400*+.


Did you ever list what jets you have in it? Now would be a good time to clean the carb, set the float level, ensure float needle isn't leaking and write jet sizes/needle clip posistion down.
What kind of fuel, oil, and plug are you running?
 
Was it getting "super hot" before or after you removed the lid ?

Even totally bone stock, if you remove the lid you have to increase the main jet.

I suggest you look at this: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/jetting-101-everything-explained.1625/

Two strokes are very picky with their air/fuel ratio. As they go from slightly rich to "perfect", power will increase slightly and all is good. As you go from perfect to lean(er) power will increase and so will exhaust temps. Go lean, power will drop off very little but exhaust temps will shoot up drasticly. You would be looking at 1200* to 1400*+.


Did you ever list what jets you have in it? Now would be a good time to clean the carb, set the float level, ensure float needle isn't leaking and write jet sizes/needle clip posistion down.
What kind of fuel, oil, and plug are you running?

Yes it got hot before....I have a 23205 main jet carb is clean clip is in middle regular fuel just 2 strike engine oil br8es plug
 
That main jet number doesn't compute. Doesnt match a Mikuni nor Kehein.

I suggest doing a plug chop with the lid on and either post a pic or tell us what it looks like. Also do a leak down test.
Not sure how hot it runs, but around 200*F is normal.
 
That main jet number doesn't compute. Doesnt match a Mikuni nor Kehein.

I suggest doing a plug chop with the lid on and either post a pic or tell us what it looks like. Also do a leak down test.
Not sure how hot it runs, but around 200*F is normal.

Sorry its a 230 my phone changed it...and I guess I will just have to do a rebuild im not doing a plug chop
 
:rolleyes:

I guess I will just have to do a rebuild im not doing a plug chop :confused: >>>> Huh?!?!? I don't understand youre reasoning.. Plug chops save you from rebuilds..
 
Sorry its a 230 my phone changed it...and I will just have to do a rebuild im not doing a plug chop
If you not gonna do plug chops just sell the bike now an get out of the hobby, plug chops are mandatory to figure out your jetting, an proper jetting is mandatory to the life of your bike, but if your to ignorant to do it, then that bike deserves a owner that will treat it right
 
Plug chops are not that hard to do and are necessary to get your jetting correct. It is best if you can do it at elevation temp and humidty that you will normally be riding and if you get that right you can learn to raise or lower your jet depending on changes in environment to keep it slightly rich. If you follow all Blaasters steps in the last post I made, which you really must, then it must be your environment causing it to run rich. I'm assuming you were running hot with the lid off so that made you lean. If you go to a 240 and leave the lid on that should get you pretty close, assuming that you have checked everything else to ensure you don't have another problem. Sounds like you have the just wanna ride attitude, but taking the time to do it right will ensure you keep riding and not rebuilding on a regular basis. You never gave an answer as to wether you got the floats set correctly. And yes jetting correctly will give you slightly less power than running lean as racers do, but unless it is in your budget to rebuild after every few hard rides you should stay on the rich side
 
So guys, where do we go from here?

We have obviously been wasting our time in trying to help and it has been falling on cloth ears.

This my last helpful post until the results of leak tests, plug chops, 2 stroke oil type, float level and other questions asked are forthcoming.

Read my lips, please help us to help you.
 
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I'm very surprised at this guy. He really needs to take the advice of guys who have walked this road before him.
Please don't give up on him fellas ! I'm sure he will come around.
 
Man this thread sure went south:(
If you don't want to "chop" a plug, just "read" it. Same process other than you look at plug with magnifying glass.


You can lead a horse to water .................................................................................