i got a 2000 yfs 200 blaster basket caise cheap $150 split the caise did some tranny work reassembled with all new gaskets and lock washers etc. etc. did the the break in and it fired up on the frist kick ran it for while shut it down after a trip around the block and had to do some clutch adjustments after putting every thang back togather the next day i started it went down the block and it died and wont start its got fuel and spark but it act like the timmings off did some ohm tests on the coil,stator,pickup,and cdi box but all is well plz help
2000 blaster has spark and fuel but wont start
- Thread starter robertm.clark
- Start date
Look in on your reeds. Make sure that they are ok. If they are broken or not closing propertly, you'll have a hard time starting it.
Did you leak test the engine directly after rebuild?
Check your compression as I fear that you may have overheated the piston.
Check your compression as I fear that you may have overheated the piston.
leak test was good it ran very well till i did some clutch adjustments and then it just craped out
oh im a simple man lol what do you guys think of taken 0.80 off the o.d of my stock flywheel i have the access to do it but i wanted some feed back before i start tunring in the thang
0.080 takes off about 5 or so ozs do you think thatll make a good differnts on the throtle response sorry for my spelling im a hill billy
well i did a comp check again after i riding it the other day and the comp perssure is only 60 to 90 psi but no leak down so im thinking rings? i m running premix instead of self oiling. raito is 31;1 is this wrong and why do yall think i burnt these rings. or can it be the reeds not opening enough? mayday mayday blaster down lol
Depending on the condition of the cylinder it may need to be honed. Do not attempt to lighten the flywheel. I had mine lightened by a machinist and it broke. Ken Oconnor does them and nobody has ever had a problem. It makes a noticeable difference in throttle response.
were did your fly wheel break? It is a must that you keep all the radias of the corners or they will fly apart. thank you for the info i might just take off 0.020 at a time and run it at around 6000 and 7000 rpms on the laith in a gage till it flys apart then remachine the good one to the safe spec so i dont gernade my caise
If the compression is 100 or below I would be looking at pulling off the cylinder with the intention of measuring wear or piston damage.
Rings wear, but so do pistons and bores. If the wear is below specs, then you may need a new piston/re-bore.
Rings wear, but so do pistons and bores. If the wear is below specs, then you may need a new piston/re-bore.
No problems, but please remember to deposit the consultation fees into the respective members account. LoL
