06 blaster won't run right

ikilledcasey

ikilledcasey

Member
Feb 26, 2014
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Ft lauderdale, fl
Bought it for 600 bucks, and the engine was locked up, so i took it all apart and checked everything except for splitting the cases, everything seemed fine but yet it was still locked up...

so i completely removed engine from the bike and was going to tear it completely down and split them this time but i need the flywheel puller, i finally ordered that and with a couple turns boom there lied my problem... a magnet was jammed against the stator, if only i woulda had the puller in the first place.. but i learned a lot by disassembling my engine. all back together and back in bike..

order new stator and bought a used magneto off ebay finally got that thing on there along with a new ignition coil and new plugs, cleaned out the carb throughly, checked reeds, wired tors system wires together like everyone says, bypassed oil injection and plugged off vent on carb, you name it I've done it... even unplugged parking break wires



I can get it to start on the first kick, but its idle is really slow and it kind of bogs down when i give it gas, and it eventually turns itself off if i don't give it a little bit of gas...

i have a video I'm going to try to put on here, but please this thing is driving me crazy i can't figure out what the problem is please help


 

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did you line up flywheel with woodruff key? did you do a compression test,did you paint anywhere were your grounds go? is piston in backwards?

woodruff key gif old 1 i use.gif
 
It sure sounds like a TORS issue to me also. That's what it idles like if its reving anything above idle with the blaster in stock configuration (TORS factory installed) and the rear parking brake applied.
Where's what I did to remove it (TORS) PROPERLY while using the correct , factory original, 5 wire stator. NOT 4 wire stator, but the 5 wire stator that is correct for 2003-2006 Yamaha Blasters...

This is how I did mine..... Its a 2003.....

I wanted to install a TORS delete carb cap and idle screw kit in my stock VM26 carb, so I had to set the wiring strait. The three (3) Plugs that I had to deal with was...

#1 >>> The plug at the top of the stock carb that plugs into the TORS box that is mounted to the top of the carb.

#2 >>> The thumb throttle switch that is connected to the thumb throttle.

#3 >>> The parking brake switch that is connected to the parking brake/clutch assembly on the handle bars.

First I disconnected the plug that goes to the TORS assembly on the top of the carb. Leave this plug DISCONNECTED.
I then followed the wire that comes from the stock thumb throttle switch, down to its plug under the hood. This is the plug that I jumped. I don't ever plan on putting the thumb switch back on, so I cut the wires a few inches past the plug, then soldered and sealed with shrink tubing. In other words it goes like this... follow the wire from the thumb throttle to the plug under the hood, then go back up a few inches ( back toward the thumb throttle)and "snip" the wires. These are the two you "loop", or "jump" (connect). The last was the parking brake wire. This wire also goes to the CDI box. This prevents a person from reving up the engine when the parking brake is applied. This is what causes your engine to sound like "chog, chog, chog, chog" when you try to rev it up. This is another simple "Un-plug it" at the plug. You can now set the parking brake and rev the engine freely.

This is how I set up my 2003 blaster to eliminate the TORS system. I was also confused before I did mine, because I had trouble finding the "complete" method. Even the "motion pro" instructions for the carb cap delete sucked. they only gave partial information for the 2003-2006 Blasters. I hope this helps.
 
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I sure appreciate all that info... But I have stripped and connected the tors wires under the hood, and I have unplugged the parking brake. It's a two wire plug and one of the wires is green and white? I chased all the wires down and grounds... I have cut the tors plug on top of carb too. And have removed little button inside throttle box.



Also woodruff key is there and in it's slot in the magneto...


A lot of people have told me it's the cdi but will it run with a bad cdi? And carb has completely been gone through each jet has had compressed air blown through, float is clean


I've literally researched for days on here trying to solve this problem I've done everything but change cdi
 
It sounds like the TORS wiring without question.
How many wires does that replacement stator have? It better be five if its an 06. (Five wires coming out of the case)
How about a picture with the hood off? Its definitely TORS causing this. It was deactivated improperly.
Don't take that the wrong way, because its easy to miss something. Go back and check what you have done, and take your time.
 
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^^^^^^ like said above.. but for chts n giggles make sure nothing crawled in your exhaust or intake and died...(or still living) :eek:
 
heres a vid of the tors and parking brake and what it does when i rev it up.... notice it starts on first kick but just won't rev? idle sounds rough too?

Ive cleaned the intake the day i got it...
and have cleaned carb thats how i got it to start so easily now


 
Have you gone back through what you did for deletes? Check, double check, then check again. Have you checked grounds? Ohmed plug cap? Ohmed coil?

What brand stator did you get? <this question is important. Did it come with adjustable plate? By chance you didn't set it with timing retarded instead of advanced? Double check that too.
 
I have same problem with my I deleted everything off my bike and I even put and older style bike cdi and harness on the bike and its still same problem. The reason why I did that to make sure it wasent the tors since older cdi they don't have it built in the cdi ive tried everything to see whats going on but still don't know I took motor apart again im working on it, once im back home ill try few more things and let you know
 
Gennadiy said:
I have same problem with my I deleted everything off my bike and I even put and older style bike cdi and harness on the bike and its still same problem. The reason why I did that to make sure it wasent the tors since older cdi they don't have it built in the cdi ive tried everything to see whats going on but still don't know I took motor apart again im working on it, once im back home ill try few more things and let you know
Click to expand...


any word? have you figured out anything new on what it could be? it sure is frustrating... I'm still stuck can't get it to rev up at all... what the hell could it be?
 
UPDATEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i took the brand new adjustable stator off and replaced it with my old one that a magneto got jammed up against and BOOOM! Fired right up first kick and revved right on up....

I have some adjustments to make like the rev hangs high for a bit but i was messing a lot with the idle screw yesterday on top of the tors unit so maybe thats all I'm dealing with but have made Tremendous progress and thank you all very much

now gonna
take everything back apart and clean it up and make sure everything is as it should be
 
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