Alright so I bought an 03 blaster and it's leaking oil from around the exhaust and running like complete crap. There is no oil injection system anymore. Thinking crank seals??
Oil leaking from exhaust
- Thread starter Brandon Stout
- Start date
Leaking out the muffler or around the pipe connected to the cylinder ? You need to be more specific . Could be dirty carb...or jetted wrong. If you have white smoke out the muffler then you have a bad clutch side crank seal . Don't run the engine again till you do a leak test
It was leaking from where the pipe connects to the head. I replaced the gasket and now it just accumulates in the pipe. And its not white smoke. And what do you mean leak test?
FMF pipe ? You need to use copper rtv around the flange to get a good seal . Or have somebody weld the pipe to the flange . You will need to get all the old dirt and oil off the flange and pipe before you load it up with the copper rtv . Let it sit for a day or 2 before you start it . You need to check for air leaks and it's a good idea to pull your carb off and clean it...check the jetting and set the float height .
Read this for leak test info.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leak-down-test.39797/
Read this for leak test info.
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/leak-down-test.39797/
Yes it has FMF pipe and I just put a gasket on the flange. And I've put two other carbs on it that came off of perfectly running blasters.
Well the FMF's need Copper RTV also to completely seal . The carb needs to be jetted for the FMF pipe . Were the carbs you used off blasters with an FMF pipe ? Are you running pre-mix...lid on or off air box...aftermarket air filter ? We can help you with jetting once you tell us . I would make sure it's leak free first or it will be impossible to jet .
Its sealed fine because there is no oil leaking by now. And the other carbs were on a setup exactly like mine. It has the aftermarket K&N filter and it makes no noticeable difference with the filter off or on. And when I say running like crap I mean not even enough power to move. It almost sounds like its running so rich is misfiring but if it was dumping to much gas it would drain out of the carb through the drain right?? And yes I'm running premix because there's no oil injection system on the bike
Probably however it came from the factory. Its completely stock other than the filter and pipe
Well this raises completely different problems in itself. If its still using factory jetting and it has an FMF pipe, dont run the bike again or you are risking damaging the motor. Stock jet is 220/230 and I believe FMF requires 260+ so your bike is running reallllly lean.
Whats your pre-mix ratio and what oil are you using?
Have you changed the plug? NGK B8ES plugs ONLY!
Give the carb a through cleaning a report back with main jet size.
Build / Buy a leak tester to check for air leaks. If your bike is sucking in air from something other than the carb, it will run your bike leaner and hotter and blow a top end. If it has a leak AND has stock jets with an FMF pipe im surprised it hasnt blown already, shoot maybe it is.
It ran completely fine until I blew a bottom end. Guy had a supposedly rebuilt bottom end and I put that on there and now that's where the problems are arising. It ran amazing before so carb is not the issue. I run 40:1 pre mix. Synthetic oil. I bought it from yamaha dealership and guy said its the best oil to use and mix it around 40:1 or even 50:1. And the plug is fine getting plenty of spark. And I have a compression tester for cars that actually has a thing that will thread in the motor. I used that and got a 120. Which it held for a good while so it shouldn't be any leaks any where
sounds like maybe a TORS problem ? which cuts spark to drastically reduce power, but will still idle.
just delete the TORS system to eliminate it from the list of possibles......
88-02 models: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-your-tors-88-02-models.655/
03+ models: http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/03-06-tors-removal-diy.41973/
have you checked the reeds ? a broken or cracked reed may show similar symptoms.
TORS was already removed before I bought it. And replaced the reeds and had no improvement
Compression test and leak test are 2 different tests. Now your running a leaner oil/fuel ratio on a bike that's prolly already running really lean. RIP blaster motor lol.
It never ran lean at first. And oil ratio does not determine lean/rich. That is fuel/air mixture. I'm a novice to 2 stroke bikes and I know that much
What he is stating is that with a leaner gas/oil ratio you are changing the air/fuel ratio as well. But what I would get from switching to 40:1 instead of the recommended 32:1, you are giving it more gas to burn so you would actually be making it burn more gas with the same amount of air as a 32:1 ratio so that would make the air/fuel ratio richer
When you use a 32:1 ratio you are putting in exactly that, 32 units of gas for every 1 unit of oil. That means when you are burning it in the cylinder you have 32 units of gas and 1 unit of oil. If you are burning at a 13:1 air/fuel ratio then you have 429 units of air, 32 units of gas, and 1 unit of oil. If you switch to 40:1 gas/oil mix then you are changing that combustion to 429 units of air, 32.195 units of gas, and 0.805 units of oil.
In conclusion, you have 0.195 more units of gas for the same number of units of air. That also means you have 0.195 less units of oil.
I'm bored. I went a little over the top for this explanation.
In conclusion, you have 0.195 more units of gas for the same number of units of air. That also means you have 0.195 less units of oil.
I'm bored. I went a little over the top for this explanation.
Did you confirm this with a plug chop? If you are a novice with 2 strokes exactly explain your conclusion as to how you know it was not running lean to begin with.
LOL, well then if the oil in the fuel doesnt matter based on the air/fuel ratio why even bother putting the oil in at all! Just put some 93 octane in there and run er till she blows.
While you are putting less oil into the fuel, you are indirectly putting more fuel into the air/fuel ratio throwing it off. So now you have to up the air for more fuel, but there is a problem. Now you bike is going to run hotter due to the fact there is not as much oil in the fuel to help lubricate all the parts.
But hey, you know what you are doing right? Good luck on fixing your problem.
Yes I did a plug chop and left the plug brown. Not super dark though. And obviously if I throw some straight 93 in it it'll seize. But using synthetic you can use less oil in the fuel mixture. If you want to be a smart a&$ know it all don't bother commenting. The fact is that the old motor ran fine and all I did was swap bottom ends and now there is a problem with it running terrible.
Either something is wrong with the new bottom end, or problem with the assembly of the cylinder to it.
Was xyl and head retorqued after hear cycles? Engine leak tested after assembly?
All suggestions thus far are pretty much spot on. Arguing about whether or not to do them will get you less further help.
It's all a process of diagnostic elimination. As are asking questions about your set up, and what you have or haven't done or tested.
Are ALL electrical components the ones from the engine that did run?
Was xyl and head retorqued after hear cycles? Engine leak tested after assembly?
All suggestions thus far are pretty much spot on. Arguing about whether or not to do them will get you less further help.
It's all a process of diagnostic elimination. As are asking questions about your set up, and what you have or haven't done or tested.
Are ALL electrical components the ones from the engine that did run?
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