YZ250 Blaster Build Log

Hey thanks Brock! Airlift comes with multiple rubber adapters / seals to fit the necks of different size radiator openings. Be sure the pinch off the overflow tube, if your set up includes a overflow catch tank/ resovoir!
 
It will guarantee no leak and no air in system 100 % before you ever put the 1st drop of coolant into the system. We use these at my shop exclusively on ever vehicle that has the coolant removed and re-installed such as water pump replacement, heatercores, freeze plugs, intake gaskets, ect.
 
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I'm dropping the pipe off to be fully welded Thursday which means I'll be putting the motor completely together this week (the top end is still apart). I'll update when I make some progress.
 
Still together after a couple hrs. No hard run time yet , going to give the cylinder plenty of time for that highQuality Chinese iron sleeve the cure out. After that we will know if the eBay Niche kit is truly a almost plug and play kit. I hope it does because >check it out< $200.00 better you'll be. Quality time on unseasoned engine, priceless! The first twenty hous of operation,even Yamaha openly states nothing wot for extended periods,quick 3/4 short burst after a couple hrs. Allow same cool down time as warm up times ,will go a very long way especially with the ring to cylinder relationships that naturally occur with a new set of rings and honed cylinder crosshatch pattern in the cylinder.
 
All the VM cables fit TM's too, you may just have to make it work on the throttle lever end if it does not fit out of the box.
 
They are cheap enough, go for it.Like I mentioned,it may or may not take some fiddling on the throttle lever end.
 
Anyone know the actual weight of a blaster engine? Here's the weight of a yz250 engine complete.
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To the other members who have done this swap, what shift lever are you running? I have a yfz450 shift lever but it fits kinda loose on the splines and I don't want to strip them out.
 
Looks like a lot more grinding than it really is. Just took the top off the kickstart pivot so it could fully rotate past the swing arm mount and a little out of the lever itself so it didn't hit the outside of the frame tube.
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Will the blaster kicker fit the yz motor? Have you tried removing the yz kick lever from the kicker boss, and seeing if the blaster kick lever will fit on the YZ kicker boss?
 
You could use a thin bushing or washer to space the pivot away from the motor (nothing too crazy) and where iit's hitting the swingarm pivot, which I'm guessing is the main problem, might have to take some off the top of the web (I like this idea the least). Neither will get you a ton of space but combined with modifying the lever you might get there. Before I weld up the front motor mounts I noticed the more the motor was rotated up to level the more the lever bound on the swing arm mount. So my motor actually sits at a couple degrees down angle in the front to maximize clearance. Probably not the answer you wanted to hear but you're really going to need as full a stroke as you can get to kick it over.

Second option: Remove the lever from the YZ boss, take the boss to a machine shop, have the pivot shaft turned down to fit a blaster kick lever and have the top machined for an E-clip. Cut the top off of the blaster kicker so the pivot shaft is exposed and can go all the way through like I did the YZ above. Use a washer and E-clip to hold it on. That will make your pivot low profile to clear the swingarm web and since it's Steel you can get away with removing more metal. My first YZ conversion was using a 70's model engine so that's basically what I did, only the boss pivot didn't have to be machined. Unfortunately a seventies boss will not fit your motor. I looked for months trying to find a lever that sticks out further but finally threw in the towel since it's really the boss that is the problem.