Yamaha blaster. Runs great1-3rd gear. Bogs in 4th and 5th.

[speedyslyder]

suck that shop kept that 220 in carb
if they installed it they would have seen
the exhaust and airfilter setup.

220 is way to small
if you think it is running rich then it is something else
dont keep lowering the main jet doing more harm then good
get the bigger jets
do a compression test
ngk b8es or br8es spark plug

 

[speedyslyder]

see what the needle clip position is as well
somebody put that tors delete cap on there.
should be in middle slot postion
should be a link on here somwheres explaining more info

 

[Aka Nash]

suck that shop kept that 220 in carb
if they installed it they would have seen
the exhaust and airfilter setup.

220 is way to small
if you think it is running rich then it is something else
dont keep lowering the main jet doing more harm then good
get the bigger jets
do a compression test
ngk bres or br8es park plug

They should have seen the jet they cleaned the carb. Or supposedly cleaned the carb... they told me it wasn't running rich anymore but once again I haven't checked. I'm about to order a 330 40 and 50 jet. I'll get back with compression test first before I order though.

 

[Aka Nash]

suck that shop kept that 220 in carb
if they installed it they would have seen
the exhaust and airfilter setup.

220 is way to small
if you think it is running rich then it is something else
dont keep lowering the main jet doing more harm then good
get the bigger jets
do a compression test
ngk bres or br8es park plug

I do have an ngk plug. So I just checked the compression. It was at 70. But I had this problem once before and it went up to 90. Ended up being the woodruff key and the seal behind the flywheel. Stupid question- if compression is low why is 1st-3rd gear unaffected and only top 2 gears affected? When I rode it at the dealership last first through third hauled like I mentioned in my post. As I stated I have no idea what they checked compression at. I can call and ask tomorrow.

 

[speedyslyder]

i dont know gauge could be off
but if they said it
and you said it then maybe it is true
technically you are supposed to check compression
when engine is fully warmed up buttttt
sounds like person before you was running it to lean
and know as of a result top end was getting toasted the whole time
they don't last forever even when all is well maintence is required.

i dont think it would even start at all with 70psi

 

[Aka Nash]

i dont know gauge could be off
but if they said it
and you said it then maybe it is true
technically you are supposed to check compression
when engine is fully warmed up buttttt
sounds like person before you was running it to lean
and know as of a result top end was getting toasted the whole time
they don't last forever even when all is well maintence is required.

i dont think it would even start at all with 70psi

When it was 70 last time it wouldn't start at all... bc of the woodruff key and that seal. But then fixed that and it started. i have had this blaster around a year now. I bought it not running. I had the piston, rings, and cylinder checked out to make sure it wasn't the top end And to make sure that the piston wasnt broken on one side. I'll take the top end off again and have it looked at. There's a local guy where I live he's an older guy he's real slow but he's the best. That's a nice blaster you have. What all has been done to it?

 

[Aka Nash]

When it was 70 last time it wouldn't start at all... bc of the woodruff key and that seal. But then fixed that and it started. i have had this blaster around a year now. I bought it not running. I had the piston, rings, and cylinder checked out to make sure it wasn't the top end And to make sure that the piston wasnt broken on one side. I'll take the top end off again and have it looked at. There's a local guy where I live he's an older guy he's real slow but he's the best. That's a nice blaster you have. What all has been done to it?

When it was 70 last time it wouldn't start at all... bc of the woodruff key and that seal. But then fixed that and it started. i have had this blaster around a year now. I bought it not running. I had the piston, rings, and cylinder checked out to make sure it wasn't the top end And to make sure that the piston wasnt broken on one side. I'll take the top end off again and have it looked at. There's a local guy where I live he's an older guy he's real slow but he's the best. That's a nice blaster you have. What all has been done to it?

one last question for the moment. Apparently I have some sand in my motor from the previous owner... I was told to put kerosene in the motor shake it around and then let it wash out. Then take to car wash to wash out w their high pressure washer and then go from there. Sound good or anybody else ever do anything else? Blaster top end is going to be bored .10 over and hopefully will fix my issues

 

[blasterboy91]

Apparently I have some sand in my motor

How did you come up with that? Did you split the cases? You've had bike over a year and just NOW finding out that sand could be in there?

 

[blasterboy91]

I'll be honest with you man. After reading through this entire thread, your bike seems to be a ticking time bomb that's about to go off. Bikes always seem to "Run awesome" right before they grenade. Do yourself a favor and rebuild this thing from crank up (if needed). Just don't take it to the same shop mentioned earlier for any work.

 

[Aka Nash]

How did you come up with that? Did you split the cases? You've had bike over a year and just NOW finding out that sand could be in there?

The guy here in town that does 90% of my work except when i took my blaster to that other shop (lesson learned). When he looked at my top end and piston he said he could see the wear on the piston and cylinder of something in there that caused some scarring or whatever you want to call it on the piston itself. He said sand. I haven't split the cases on this blaster I've split the cases on the 2 spare motors I had to check them out and more or less to give me something to do and clean all the parts. Some days I want to just light it on fire and throw it off a bridge... but this weekend when I have time I'm going to look at everything and see what's going on with it the bottom end. There probably is sand or something in there because it has only ever had a foam filter directly on the carb. I've only ridden it maybe an hour or 2 the whole time I've had it and the guy before there's no telling. So I plan on getting one of those pre filters or a bigger foam filter to go over the one I currently have with the no airbox situation. I haven't ridden it since the carb was cleaned and it looked good when I opened it up last week.

 

[best]

Unless you just got sand spilled into the bottom end, there is no need to pull it apart or wash it out.
If you ran it yesterday with no filter, that sand has been through the engine, done its damage and gone out the pipe. A good foam air filter will work fine, although the Blaster airbox is a fine design and makes more power than most bolt-on filters.

There is a term in industrial troubleshooting:
Step #1) Return it to the "as designed" state

This means fixing anything that is missing or mal-adjusted or broken or screwed up.
Once done, it becomes much easier to get things running well.

 

[Larry's Shee]

I do have an ngk plug. So I just checked the compression. It was at 70. But I had this problem once before and it went up to 90. Ended up being the woodruff key and the seal behind the flywheel. Stupid question- if compression is low why is 1st-3rd gear unaffected and only top 2 gears affected? When I rode it at the dealership last first through third hauled like I mentioned in my post. As I stated I have no idea what they checked compression at. I can call and ask tomorrow.

Reason is that in lower gears it has mechanical advantage. In upper gears it's not making enough power to pull it.
A "Quality" compression gauge is mandatory. Also the "Schrader" valve must be at the end of the hose to get accurate reading.

 

[Aka Nash]

Got it bored out and got it running starts first or second kick every time and changed out the main jet from 220 to a 160 and it runs great now. Reason for changing the jet is that it would go fine until around 3/4 throttle then just stay same speed and it did it in every gear so guy who has a shop here said changed the jet so I did and then it ran perfect.

 

[blasterboy91]

Let me get this straight. You start this thread because your bike ran like garbage. We gave you the advice you needed, but with your last post completely ignore what was said.

You stated you just got the bike bored, and I take it a new piston? If so, please correct me.

You need to stop jetting DOWN and do some simple diagnostics. Plug chop. Listen to how the engine runs.

I hope for your wallets sake, your new top end doesn't grenade from being ridden lean.

 

[speedyslyder]

i don't see a idle screw drilled/tapped on carb either?
what does other side of carb look like? Post it..
banshee carbs im clueless never owned 1,rode 1 in my yard that had serious leaking oil issue told the guy noooooo lol
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/aftermarket-carburetor-cap-and-idle-screw-install.22174/

 

[Aka Nash]

It needed a bore anyways. But I had the 220 jet in it and past 3/4 throttle in every gear it started just bogging but never died. It did this exact same thing in every gear... the guy told me I needed a smaller main jet.. and that's what I did. Every time I had a bigger jet in it it would bog and die. So the bore job was completely my idea bc it needed it. But as far as jetting I'm not a professional and I went with the professional opinion I could get at the time. I probably only Rode it about 30 mins after jetting. I was more excited that it actually ran to be honest I wasn't really worried about much else. I probably only rode it about 30 minutes that way. I'm sure I'm going to get some heat on my comment about being too excited too worry about the motor which is fine. I haven't ran it since.

Let me get this straight. You start this thread because your bike ran like garbage. We gave you the advice you needed, but with your last post completely ignore what was said.

You stated you just got the bike bored, and I take it a new piston? If so, please correct me.

You need to stop jetting DOWN and do some simple diagnostics. Plug chop. Listen to how the engine runs.

I hope for your wallets sake, your new top end doesn't grenade from being ridden lean.

ne

Let me get this straight. You start this thread because your bike ran like garbage. We gave you the advice you needed, but with your last post completely ignore what was said.

You stated you just got the bike bored, and I take it a new piston? If so, please correct me.

You need to stop jetting DOWN and do some simple diagnostics. Plug chop. Listen to how the engine runs.

I hope for your wallets sake, your new top end doesn't grenade from being ridden lean.

 

[Aka Nash]

i don't see a idle screw drilled/tapped on carb either?
what does other side of carb look like? Post it..
banshee carbs im clueless never owned 1,rode 1 in my yard that had serious leaking oil issue told the guy noooooo lol
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/aftermarket-carburetor-cap-and-idle-screw-install.22174/
View attachment 29975

 

[Aka Nash]

I will have to get a picture of the carb this weekend

 

[Aka Nash]

It needed a bore anyways. But I had the 220 jet in it and past 3/4 throttle in every gear it started just bogging but never died. It did this exact same thing in every gear... the guy told me I needed a smaller main jet.. and that's what I did. Every time I had a bigger jet in it it would bog and die. So the bore job was completely my idea bc it needed it. But as far as jetting I'm not a professional and I went with the professional opinion I could get at the time. I probably only Rode it about 30 mins after jetting. I was more excited that it actually ran to be honest.

Let me get this straight. You start this thread because your bike ran like garbage. We gave you the advice you needed, but with your last post completely ignore what was said.

You stated you just got the bike bored, and I take it a new piston? If so, please correct me.

You need to stop jetting DOWN and do some simple diagnostics. Plug chop. Listen to how the engine runs.

I hope for your wallets sake, your new top end doesn't grenade from being ridden lean.

ne

 

[Aka Nash]

Did plug test today. It was the right color. the guy told me it could be a hair darker than it was but its not running lean or rich.

[Qso UOTE="blasterboy91, post: 802352, member: 762"]Let me get this straight. You start this thread because your bike ran like garbage. We gave you the advice you needed, but with your last post completely ignore what was said.

You stated you just got the bike bored, and I take it a new piston? If so, please correct me.

You need to stop jetting DOWN and do some simple diagnostics. Plug chop. Listen to how the engine runs.

I hope for your wallets sake, your new top end doesn't grenade from being ridden lean.[/QUOTE]
S