*update* HELP. Dmc jetting!!

BlasterPat

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Jan 8, 2016
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So lemme start by saying I installed all my parts 2 day reeds went on no problem cleaned carb etc put pipe on uni filter drilled 6 holes and added uni vent caps. Only problem is it seems a little on the rich side I put the 260 jet in and needle clip on 5 I'm removing tors and oil injector this week as well but it won't idle now even when in turn the screw on top of tors so 2 moro I an gonna let out the air screw a quarter turn but there wad nothing in the directions about that lol guess is just fine tuning now.

I'm just hoping I didn't make a mistake putting the needle on 5 that was a pain in the a$$ !!! Lol its mainly after 1/2 throttle which should be the main jet right. And also to install my reeds I had to cut the rubber air flow thing flush correct??
 
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I would start with a 300 main...and plug chop . 260 seems small to me . Set your air screw at 1.5 turns . You might have to raise your needle up one spot from the bottom . Make sure your float is set and you don't have any air leaks . Remove the lid
 
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I would start with a 300 main...and plug chop . 260 seems small to me . Set your air screw at 1.5 turns . You might have to raise your needle up one spot from the bottom . Make sure your float is set and you don't have any air leaks . Remove the lid
Thats my point. That's what's recommended is a 260 and it seems Tooo rich and won't idle but that was after a fresh carb clean after I ran it and restared the idle screw worked but had to turn it a lot a 300 would be shooting oil out the exhaust lol. And I'm really hoping I don't have to take this spring of again! !! It only got boggy 1/2 throttle up and want even warm also the core didn't help that's why I assumed it's running rich.

Also no air leaks at all.
 
Have to upload video from photobucket or youtube . Is this for a stock carb or that 32mm flatside you have ? I would wait to jet it after you do the oil pump delete . You'll need a bigger jet for that . I would do the tors delete, set the needle to the 4th slot...do the oil delete...remove the lid and start with a 300 main . If it's cold out go up another one on the main
 
Have to upload video from photobucket or youtube . Is this for a stock carb or that 32mm flatside you have ? I would wait to jet it after you do the oil pump delete . You'll need a bigger jet for that . I would do the tors delete, set the needle to the 4th slot...do the oil delete...remove the lid and start with a 300 main . If it's cold out go up another one on the main
Its the stock carb. With tors still on also I've heard that you do not have to rejet for oil pump removal also that may be the issue they called for a 260 main snorkel off and probably assume it's running 32.1 does oil pump run 40.1?
 
I'm still kinda hooked on its running rich and thus will not idle I read a really good post jetting 101 lol and it kinda explains the systems to the T that I'm experiencing the carb and everything is working perfectly so it's gotta be 1 of the 2 things that I changed. Also I'll have some for info after 2moro morning when I get 2 run it out I didn't really have a chance I got done right before work.
 
Yes you need to go bigger on the main when you pre-mix . Mix at 32:1 . 4oz. of oil for every gallon of gas
The main jet has nothing to do with mixing of fuel thus whatever you put in your tank will get to your piston as mixed no need to rejet after pump removal.
 
it's that 5th needle clip causing your problems, move clip up one slot at a time until it revs clean past 3/4 throttle.


The main jet has nothing to do with mixing of fuel thus whatever you put in your tank will get to your piston as mixed no need to rejet after pump removal.

plug chops have proven you must increase the main jet when switching from injection to mix.
when mixing you are replacing fuel with oil thru the jet, versus it injected into the carb throat, you have to increase the jet to compensate for the fuel the oil is replacing, to maintain the proper air/fuel ratio.

IF.....anyone didn't require a rejet after switching, they were either running too rich to begin with, or are now running lean.
 
Wait untill you remove that Tors Brick before you mess with it again. I had one that was either stripped or something else, that no matter what I did to it, it would not respond to an Idle adjustment.


All the DMC's I've ran have like the Needle clip in Position 4. 32.5 pilot, and the airscrew starting at 1.5 turns out....then tweaked untill I get the highest Idle.

Back when my bike was pretty much stock, no airlid, 32:1 premix, unifilter, and the DMC exhaust. I was runnning a 290 main in the summer. 1000-1300 ft elevation. Just remember every setup is different, and what works for me might not work for you.

Once you get the TORS deleted and get it jetted properly, you'll really be pleased with tht pipe.
 
Ok thanks for all the great replis guys I will try moving the needle clip up for now. I didn't have much time today. I really dread digging into that carb. Is there an easy way with the spring like some old sensai technique lol
 
Ok thanks for all the great replis guys I will try moving the needle clip up for now. I didn't have much time today. I really dread digging into that carb. Is there an easy way with the spring like some old sensai technique lol
Not really, just doing it over and over makes its easier.
 
Is there an easy way with the spring like some old sensai technique lol


yes, push the spring back as far as you can and hold it in that position with hemostats

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I'm going to Walmart after work.... must have hemostats!!!! Also cutty looks like I was wrong about that but in my defense there are so many posts about people just taking it off and that's that lol. Also very good advice and I sincerely apologize for hmm I wouldn't say not trusting your advice I just like to see a couple different inputs is all :) and yours was spot on.
 
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