Torqueing Cylinder Base Nuts
- Thread starter heyketz
- Start date
Each one should be tensioned diagonally at 18ft lb, I dont believe you should guess the tightening as one can get the barrell cocked at a slight angle, if you are using a thicker than OEM gasket.
adding a crows foot to the end of your torque wrnech throws the reading off anyway because it changes the calibrated length.. some torque wrenches have book that tells ya what to add in case you use a crows foot.. or so i've heard. my brand new digital snap on didn't have one, so i'm wondering if any do.. or people are just setting a few lbs heavier..
i've built TONS of engines and i'll tell you theres not really a good and accuratue way of torquing those nuts down.. i tighten them down with a wrench and let em go.. and have 0 base gasket failures. just run em down tight (within reason... no 24" breaker bar)
i've built TONS of engines and i'll tell you theres not really a good and accuratue way of torquing those nuts down.. i tighten them down with a wrench and let em go.. and have 0 base gasket failures. just run em down tight (within reason... no 24" breaker bar)
how do you figure this exactly? that cylinder is on 4 studs..2 of which are doweled.. diagonal tightening brings the jug down as square as possible. and the dowels keep the cylinder aligned properly. once that cylinder is snugged down it's not moving because one nut is a shade tighter than the others..
I too do not use any type of torque wrench. I tighten them till they are snug, then another good pull on the 12mm wrench till there good-n-tight- and check them after heat cycles. I can guarentee they are over 18ft lbs but have never had a base gasket issue!
Did the same on mine but I've been working on stuff for so many years that I'm very close to dead on.
i agree with all the "hand feel" methods above as thats how i do it too,
after pulling the torque wrench so many times, you can just get a feel for "about"
whats right
for the base nut in question, i took an old socket and drilled a hole thru the top,
get it on the nut, then insert a stiff rod into the hole for turning it.
kinda like the factory spark plug wrench that comes with all blasters
it also help greatly to cut off that fake ass water spout shorter and return the rubber plug into the end, it's not open into the case anyway, but the rubber plug helps it look finshed
that allows you to access that nut better !
after pulling the torque wrench so many times, you can just get a feel for "about"
whats right
for the base nut in question, i took an old socket and drilled a hole thru the top,
get it on the nut, then insert a stiff rod into the hole for turning it.
kinda like the factory spark plug wrench that comes with all blasters
it also help greatly to cut off that fake ass water spout shorter and return the rubber plug into the end, it's not open into the case anyway, but the rubber plug helps it look finshed
that allows you to access that nut better !
Do the nuts in stages, tighten little bit all around, tighten little more, final torque. I think it's 18 or 20 ft/lbs, which isn't a lot. If you have a torque wrench practice on something else to see what it "feels" like with whatever wrench you will use on jug.
well thats news to me... i've installed hundreds of cylinders.. never had an issue
I made a tool.
What i did was took an old wrench and welded a socket to it so i can get on the nut with the boxed end and torque it.Ill get a pic of it.I actually made it for my kdx and seen it worked on the blaster too.
What i did was took an old wrench and welded a socket to it so i can get on the nut with the boxed end and torque it.Ill get a pic of it.I actually made it for my kdx and seen it worked on the blaster too.
Similar threads
