Thirty year blaster rebuild

Discussion in 'Full Rebuilds' started by Tryin, Jan 4, 2020.

  1. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    Well not really. My dad bought me a new blaster in 1988, probably one of the first ones sold. I have so many great memories of that bike that now that I want to return the favor to my son. I bought a 2002 that I thought was in excellent condition, it wasn’t. Good news is motor is functional, passed leak down test after resealing reed cage and has 115lbs compression. Bad news from what I have found: oil tank reservoir was cracked at the top, oil line and pump was full of water, carb leaked out over flow tubes bad (I rebuilt it), Bike had no low end and really high idle, positive camber on one wheel, negative on the other, original front tires shot, chain shot, ruined rear axle and sprocket when trying to remove from carrier, carrier is fine. Bike sat for ten years with gas in it, fuel tank has been cleaned. Chain rollers missing, left front brake line broke. Everything’s tore down and ready to clean, sand, and paint. I’ve included a couple pictures. Please take a look at the steering stem, it appears to be bent but I had no problem steering lock to lock. Plan is to restore as close to stock as possible, would really like to do hydraulic brakes though. TORS and carb brick will be eliminated. Wanted to keep oil injection but may delete. Check out pictures:
     

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  2. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    Yep, it’s bent
     
  3. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    Does it matter? Tie rod ends were in good shape and steering moves freely. Planning on putting new camber adjustable Alba a arms
     
  4. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Does it look like it can be straightened without weakening the metal.tierod wasn't bent?
     
  5. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Maybe check to make sure at bend tierod doesn't bind at both ends of suspention travel
     
  6. DKavcak

    DKavcak Member

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    I can't tell from the picture, but is that a cast-metal part? If it is, I'd be very wary about heating it and bending it. Cast-metals (at least all the ones I've dealt with) don't like to get heated or bent, they just crack or break.

    If it's a machined steel/aluminum/stainless steel piece, get it hot enough to anneal the metal.
    I use the "Sharpie Method" for heating up metals. Once the mark from a black Sharpie starts to disappear, it's hot enough to bend.
     
  7. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    It appears to be cast. There are several used on ebay for about $25, I'll probably just pick one up. Even if it could be bent back, I'm not even sure what side is correct!
     
  8. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Just looked at mine . it does look like a cast peice.i would get another one.if it breaks it ain't gonna be pretty
     
  9. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    Don’t think it’s cast, because don’t think you could weld to steel tube. Most likely forged steel.

    The process you’d have to employ might not be worth the effort, far easier to just buy another. IF you want to try , leave a message in this thread and I’ll respond. It’s rather involved
     
  10. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    I'm just going to get a used straight one, clean it up, paint it. I picked up a used sprocket hub on ebay for $12 so that was a good deal. I also talked to Alba yesterday, I really want to put hydraulic brakes at least on the front, they said I could use whatever Yamaha spindles I wanted to, just let them know so that opens more opportunities to find some decent used stuff. Should be painting this weekend but with everything I have going on right now just won't be ready, supposed to be 70 degrees this weekend which would have been perfect. Oh well.
     
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  11. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Making good progress
     
  12. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    No sense rushing it. YFZ BRAKES will fit Banshee/Warrior spindles. I don’t know if yfz spindles will work though. I do know from the banshee forum that the newer yfz front master cylinder is the best you can get
     
  13. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    Paint is done, time to start putting this thing together! I'll try to get some pics up soon. I used kirker single stage urethane and my fuji turbine, came out real nice.
     
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  14. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    What color did you go with. Everyone likes pics.getting there
     
  15. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    A3717AEF-F7B5-4834-81B5-3508BC70620E.jpeg Does this work?

     
  16. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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  17. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    Looks like this works better
     

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  18. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    Maybe not...
     
  19. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Looking good.when you go through like this you basically end up with a new machine.plus you will understand your bike better.nice job
     
    Last edited: Mar 15, 2020
  20. Tryin

    Tryin Member

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    So I've got a question for all you Blaster vets, I've got a hydraulic front brake system to put on the front, what are my options for a parking brake? The master cylinder/lever that I received with the setup has no provision for a parking brake. Do I have any options?

    Also an update:
    You talked me into the oil delete, so I've done that, installed motor, swing arm, put new bearings in carrier and installed axle into carrier. Awaiting my 15/32 drill bit so I can install the 400EX shock, got the bushing and bolt from KOR. Lot's to do!
     
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