The Banzai Build....

[BanzaiBlaster]

I got the upper and lower chain rollers installed.
All fasteners get a drop of blue loctite.

I had to remove the tubes for the stock chain rollers. I cut them off with a pneumatic hacksaw and filed them down to about 2mm. Be sure to run a tap through to clean up the threads M8x1.25

If you plan on doing any amount of wrenching on your quad it's imperative you have a metric tap and die set. They're so cheap at harbor freight there's no excuse.

If you don't have access to a set you can (I've done it many times in the past) take an extra PROPER SIZE bolt and use a dremel with a cutting disc to cut 2-3 EVENLY SPACED slots lengthwise down the threads. It will work great for 5-10 holes before it starts to dull...

I inserted a washer between the frame and roller.

TIP:
ANY time you place a washer adjacent to a seal always face the rounded side of the washer towards the seal.

 

[Markblaster]

Nice work. Same as how I did mine.

 

[dirtysquared]

Good job so far Jeff. Your building a really nice bike. You will really enjoy the blaster for how much power and versitility you can pull out of it.

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Some pics of the parts.
ASR Long Travel +3 up 1 Racing Arms

IShock 16.5" dual rate compression adjust

Tusk axle

 

[Markblaster]

Nice parts.

You need a set of custom Skid plates for them arms.

I have a thread about them and cad file. But I could not find it lol.

 

[speedyslyder]

Awesome work banzai looks awesome

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Thanks Mark and Speedy! I wouldnt know where to take a CAD file around here ...lol..and I'm not sure it would be cost effective. I'm eyeing a frame skid for sure. If u happen to drop that file at your engineering department again Mark.... aahheemmm...

I've been working on her all day... more cleaning, painting and baking parts. I'm about to assemble the rear carrier right now(bearings and seals already in).
Well, after I clean the rotor.......

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Good job so far Jeff. Your building a really nice bike. You will really enjoy the blaster for how much power and versitility you can pull out of it.

Thank you Dirty! I'm hoping the suspension works well. I still have more ceiling with the motor to make power (bigger carb, stroker, long rod, KOR big bore)... once I get a sound working bike then I'll dive back in for more mods and one off custom goodies.. imagination....

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Some more pics of the Tusk axle.

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

I got quite a bit done this weekend.

Pics to come soon.

I've spent a lot of time getting the front end sorted out. ASR calls for a 16.25" shock, these are 16.5" and that's just enough to cause some minor binding in the lover Heim joint at full droop. I haven't decided yet on what to do. MCR suspension is only about 40 minutes from me. I might have them put spacers under the shock pistons to shorten them a smidge. The problem here is the piston will be starting further into the dampening circuit than before... 1/4" is probobly nothing I'll have to talk to them and it depends on what they'll charge. The other option is the Diamond J shock conversion. I'm going to do the alignment while I'm waiting on the springs. This among other things left to tackle will give me time to mull it over.
Today, I took the front shocks off , removed the springs and sent them back to Darren @ iShock. We're dropping from 450/150 lbs/in. springs to 350/125 lbs/in. springs. For an approx 20% drop in overall spring pressure. This should give the long plush stroke I'm looking for...

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

These shocks are very narrow at the top mount. I think if I go with the Diamond J kit I'll be able to use this hole

My only issue with the Diamond J kit is it alters the shock angle. The more you stand a shock up the more effective the spring rate is and the stiffer the suspension feel. I guess I'm counting grains of sand here seeing as I'm running non mainstream shocks.... but this is the option I'm leaning toward. It does give the option of several different ride heights without affecting dampening or spring preload.. good points I guess.

 

[Markblaster]

Yeah my 16" shocks are very close to the heim's at full drop.

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

A little teaser..... the tail light mount up....

I sealed the studs and wiring with silicone. The wires will exit the box through a grommet hopefully through the misplaced (come on CFM!) mounting hole....

I think I'm changing th light to this one. 1mm difference in stud distance.

 

[Markblaster]

Nice idea with the light. I would use nyloc nuts on it or loctite them nuts so they dont come loose. Just for safety.

Drain hole in the airbox was empty on mine also. I just installed a rubber blanking grommet.

Also if you are running the stock carb with the cfm airbox buy a new silicone reducer like they use on turbo setups. They fit nice and tight and look better.

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Good idea on the grommet. I did loctite the nuts until I can buy some nylocks... I just got my coupler in the mail yesterday

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Well, my springs didn't get shipped from iShock in Joshua Tree, CA until yesterday. Since I'm waiting on those I decided to replace the front rotors, front wheel bearings and seals. The parts are ordered so I guess I better get the old apart, cleaned and painted.

I did get the controls done

-OEM stem bushing and seals were reconditioned and greased. I painted the stem just above the bushing due to some minor fading and corrosion. The rest of the stem looks new.
-Pro taper ATV mid-rise
-ASV F3 Shorty levers
-Spyder Grips (love the feel of these grips!!)
-I rebuilt the OEM throttle and switch assemblies (basically a thorough cleaning and re-grease, using dielectric in switch)
-Indie risers (21mm)
-Pre '03 cable guide (THANKS Markblaster!)
-All stainless steel hardware (bout $20 worth..lol, damn hardware store)

ALL FASTNERS GET LOCTITE 247(or 242)
All the OEM cable straps have been cleaned and are soaking in a rejuvenating solution to be affixed soon.
I will do the final adjustments once I get the seat on but it's pretty close.

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Another teaser... I'm not crazy about the offset required to run the Honda 450R shock. The applied force is linear so a 20% offset from center looks bad but shouldn't effect function or durability. The important thing is the shock shaft be perpendicular to the axle. Any twisting of the swingarm will be transferred to the shock shaft and piston which can turn in their bore.

I'm using a properly sized bolt(full shank, proper length to allow full torque without binding) for the lower mount and placing spacers where needed.

The rear caliper was reconditioned and the parking brake deleted. The large pin was nearly froze in the bore due to dried up grease and corrosion. I used a copper bore brush to get it gliding like new.
I'd recommend cleaning and regreasing the pins/bores on your calipers at least once per season.

 

[speedyslyder]

im loving those asv perches/levers
are those the unbreakable type that pull in and extend out as well?
I bought 1 of them for a cr125 years ago

 

[BanzaiBlaster]

Yup, those are the ones.. really nice kit. They're quite pricey but the craftsmanship and attention to deal is amazing..... and they look pretty bad ass....

 

[speedyslyder]

mmm mmm good awesome job