stripped crankshaft threads

[William Snyder]

This is something I learned on a different Forum about booger or stripped crankshaft threads that I wanted to share. I am currently dealing with this issue and I read a post where a guy got the appropriately-sized die and cut it in half and then use a hose clamp to put the two halves back together around the crank and then gradually turned it, tighten hose clamp, turn it some more tighten the hose clamp, turn it some more until he got it completely closed and it seemed to work well. I think I would have to turn it down a size or something because my threads are pretty badly stripped but it might work for someone else.

 

[William Snyder]

This is something I learned on a different Forum about booger or stripped crankshaft threads that I wanted to share. I am currently dealing with this issue and I read a post where a guy got the appropriately-sized die and cut it in half and then use a hose clamp to put the two halves back together around the crank and then gradually turned it, tighten hose clamp, turn it some more tighten the hose clamp, turn it some more until he got it completely closed and it seemed to work well. I think I would have to turn it down a size or something because my threads are pretty badly stripped but it might work for someone else.

I'm still figuring out where to post stuff so hope this is the right spot. I saw somebody asking about a leak down tester and just wanted to say I used a rubber bouncy ball with a bolt through it as a plug. You just tighten it down and it squishes out and blocks it up nice. The compression tester I made out of a bike pump and a pressure gauge and some tubing. You need to use a hollow bolt thing from a lamp, it looks kind of like a piece of pipe that is threaded like a bolt, to be able to tighten it down at the intake.

 

[William Snyder]

This is something I learned on a different Forum about booger or stripped crankshaft threads that I wanted to share. I am currently dealing with this issue and I read a post where a guy got the appropriately-sized die and cut it in half and then use a hose clamp to put the two halves back together around the crank and then gradually turned it, tighten hose clamp, turn it some more tighten the hose clamp, turn it some more until he got it completely closed and it seemed to work well. I think I would have to turn it down a size or something because my threads are pretty badly stripped but it might work for someone else.

Well unfortunately no easy way out for me. Ended up just using a tiny file to chase the threads on the crank and then re tapping the nut. Had to switch to a thinner washer as I lost a lot of the thread at the end of the crank but all in all it seems to have worked! No more shearing Woodruff keys and it's running pretty good. Just got to return the carburetor as I messed it up before I knew why it wasn't starting. Then I'll be right back where I started before I hold the flywheel to get it to stator, trying to figure out why the lights don't work!

 

[Slydog]

Thread files are great to have for beat up threads. Now stripped is a different story

and. Cheap.
15-20 bucks off tool truck.
Covers all thread pitches.

 

[William Snyder]

Thanks for the tip! Can't believe I never heard of them. I was using a tiny file and just very carefully chasing the thread. I'm going for the valve grinding compound approach and I'm putting the fat washer back in and hoping I can get it to torque. I'll let you know how I make out.

 

[Slydog]

You'll be sweating it till that tourqe wrench clicks

 

[William Snyder]

You'll be sweating it till that tourqe wrench clicks

Yeah when I put the fat washer back in there I got like literally three threads to work with. I really need to know how important that fat washer is and if I can use one that is half as thick. If I can use the half as thick washer then I know I can get it to 58 on the torque wrench. Problem is I'm guessing it's that thick for a reason that I'm just not seeing.