Sprocket hub studs

[Pankz]

OK guys,

I've really searched around the net on this, and I see there's a million opinions on this subject, but I'm after all you blaster guys opinions that have been running these bikes for years.

I have a new OEM sprocket hub, new OEM studs, nuts, and the lock washers...all from Yamaha. I see the manual does not call for any Loctite in this assembly whatsoever, but it also does not show a stud to sprocket install either. I plan to use the blue for the nuts irregardless, just good peace of mind IMO.

Loctite these studs to the sprocket with Red, Blue, or no Loctite at all. Lets see your votes

Edited for clarity. Question is regarding loctiting the stud to sprocket only, NOT which loctite to use on the nuts that hold the sprocket on the hub. I would never consider using red here.

 

[speedyslyder]

i know that everyone uses loctite
including professional mechanics..
and it is good to use buttttt
i dont get the fact that it says i must heat red loctite up to 450 degrees
before i remove it yet i have removed red loctited bolts with a simple wrench without heat
with ease.

loctite may have a small advantage of it vibrating loose in my opinion
but at all means try it/use it

 

[Pankz]

I found this from a loctite rep earlier in another forum. Maybe this has something to do with your observations.

"243 and 263 are the only threadlockers we have that we market as being Oil Tolerent. By saying that they are Oil Tolerent, they work on as-received lightly oily threaded fasteners like you get from the hardware store, fastenal, etc. Properly cleaning and degreasing is not required for these two products.

Cleaning and degreasing nuts and bolts for ALL of the other threadlockers is strongly advised for proper performance and reliable locking and protection from rust lock."