Slapping noise, possibly piston slap. Clearance question
- Thread starter Conner Jones
- Start date
I checked the rod up and down and there was none. The side to side play is minimal, less than a mm. Does the rest of the stuff in that diagram require the cases to be split?
Yes, but technically, there shouldn't be any play there as is. I've never had to check radial clearances since I've typically just replaced the crank, bearings, and everything else if I found play side-to-side. If you can't shove a long .001" feeler gauge in there, you're fine.
Should I just buy a 68mm wiseco piston and have the cylinder bored to that piston and hope that everything goes well this time? I'm going to switch to klotz super techniplate too. I was using cheap 2 cycle oil from the auto parts store before, so maybe higher quality oil will help.
Look at the small end of rod to see if it is discolored. Put bearing in rod, then wristpin.see if you have. Any play in wristpin.big end will have some side to side movment. Should not have any noticeable up and down movment.warming the quad up usually is done before! Quad is put in gear
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Forth picture down. Cold seizure or four corner seizure
https://www.millennium-tech.net/pistonTrouble.php
https://www.millennium-tech.net/pistonTrouble.php
I gotta love looking at four-stroke malfunctions. I'm very familar with valve-to-piston collisions.
I was working on a guys MK4 1.8T Jetta (yes, he's a stupid dubber kid) and he decided to do his own timing belt. Well, lets just say he spun his cams 180 degrees and put holes in all his pistons after he just had the engine rebuilt. STUPID!
I checked for play in wristpin bearing and there is none. Its a brand new wrist pin bearing so i wouldnt think it would be messed up. I was looking at the millenium tech link and my piston looks very similar to the multipoint seizure and the 4 point cold seizure pictures, except that mine doesnt have them all the way around. There is one on the back of the piston, and one on the side of the piston. Im going to buy a 68mm wiseco or maybe wossner piston, and then take it back to the machine shop and have them measure and make sure it was bored correctly before and that they didnt do something wrong, and then have them bore it to the new piston.
How long was that piston in there?no discoloration on either end?nows the time to look at everything while cylinder is off.was that a forged piston?
The piston was in there for about 5 hours of runtime. It was a pro x cast piston. There is no discoloration on the top of the rod. There is a little purple/blue color on the crank where the rod goes into it, but theres no play in the crank, and it doesnt seem like the crank is bad. I noticed that the two washer type things (on both sides of the rod where it goes to the crank) can spin freely. Im not sure if this is normal.
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