rich and no idle symptoms after a routine carb cleaning.

Androidaaron81

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Apr 26, 2020
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I have a 93 blaster I just bought and it very much looks to be stock.. ran good on first day , had sat all winter supposedly clutch basket was changed that all it needed ... Not sure how well the gas was in it but it seemed ok great compression etc... Etc..
It was suggested that the blaster probably could use a carb clean , so I ran it for about hour around yard.. after I bough it started good on half choke idles with choke closed with great power . Shut it off ran it multiple times in a hours time .
Figured next day I would clean carb just for good measure removed it took out the needles jets everything soaked every screw needle in gas , carb clean sprayed it after one part by one perfectly , reinstalled with all new vaccum lines and a tank too carb gas line. During removal I payed close attention to the air pilot screw, I backed it out from where it sat 10 turns before it pulled right out . So I put it back in 10 turns .
The bike won't idle at all not even slightly. Runs super rich clouds of smoke . Won't idle dies makes no difference with choke out or in either .
Take off in 1st its boggs and dies . But it tends to start back up normally and stays running while flikin the throttle but tons of smoke
I had mixed fresh 5 gall of 32:1 and topped off the fuel tank

I' assumed by putting the float and needle and just as it was before with nothing out of place this would have been the ticket .
Something is wrong and it's not missing needles or dirty carb at this point .
How many actual screwdriver adjustments are there On this carb? And where should I start with this mess ?

I've already tried to do the float adjustment which should have been fine as it was at the point of removal , but I can't understand the concept of just what is meant by making sure floats do not allow spring loaded needle to depress?

What might I have done here ?
 
Turn the airscrew in until it lightly bottoms out, then 1.5 turns out to start, then follow the procedure to tune from there .......

to adjust the airscrew....start at 1.5 turns out from lightly bottomed out. (lefty loosey/righty tighty)
get the bike warmed up, revving it if needed to keep it running.
turn your idle up slightly to help it stay running and overcome the incorrect settings of the adjustment process.

you are looking for the airscrew setting that achieves the highest idle.

from the 1.5 turns out, slowly start turning the screw in 1/2 turns at a time, allowing 15-20 seconds between turns for the engine to "catch up" to each new fuel/air setting.
repeat in the other direction from 1.5 turns out to 2.5 - 3+ turns out, again allowing 15-20 seconds between turns
find the turns in or out that the engine idles the highest, double check it, kill the engine and turn the screw in completely counting the turns as you do, write it down and return it to the newly found high idle setting.
if this # of turns is between 1/2 and 2-1/2 turns out, you are golden.

now you can do 1/8th turns each direction until it revs cleanly past 1/2 throttle, this can also be done while riding it to acheive good throttle response or daily to accommodate changing conditions
 
Turn the airscrew in until it lightly bottoms out, then 1.5 turns out to start, then follow the procedure to tune from there .......

to adjust the airscrew....start at 1.5 turns out from lightly bottomed out. (lefty loosey/righty tighty)
get the bike warmed up, revving it if needed to keep it running.
turn your idle up slightly to help it stay running and overcome the incorrect settings of the adjustment process.

you are looking for the airscrew setting that achieves the highest idle.

from the 1.5 turns out, slowly start turning the screw in 1/2 turns at a time, allowing 15-20 seconds between turns for the engine to "catch up" to each new fuel/air setting.
repeat in the other direction from 1.5 turns out to 2.5 - 3+ turns out, again allowing 15-20 seconds between turns
find the turns in or out that the engine idles the highest, double check it, kill the engine and turn the screw in completely counting the turns as you do, write it down and return it to the newly found high idle setting.
if this # of turns is between 1/2 and 2-1/2 turns out, you are golden.

now you can do 1/8th turns each direction until it revs cleanly past 1/2 throttle, this can also be done while riding it to acheive good throttle response or daily to accommodate changing conditions


Sounds good
My whole main issue was the wrong gas mixture and 2 cycle oil so I got yamalube today 40:1
Starts right up pegs the rpms in neutral etc.. etc...

There's a bigger issue . The bike doesn't just sit and idle regardless of choke on or off or hands off the thumb , it is starting up fine first kick if I give it throttle with choke on or off as if the choke playa no part now runs strong through the gears as long as your on the gas , but the moment you let off gas it's as if it's on kill switch it shuts off??

I thought I may be missing an actual external idle screw that supposed is optional to use on the side of the carb where there are pre exist thread's, but I happen to have the oem tors setup .
A yahama dealer guy told me that they're may be an idle up adjustment on the tors unit itself or up at the thumb throttle ?

So no lean or rich symptoms
No hard start
No clouds of white or blue smoke .
Just a normal 40:1 setup

Just no idle point as if things off gas it's shutting down .
 
Sounds good
My whole main issue was the wrong gas mixture and 2 cycle oil so I got yamalube today 40:1
Starts right up pegs the rpms in neutral etc.. etc...

There's a bigger issue . The bike doesn't just sit and idle regardless of choke on or off or hands off the thumb , it is starting up fine first kick if I give it throttle with choke on or off as if the choke playa no part now runs strong through the gears as long as your on the gas , but the moment you let off gas it's as if it's on kill switch it shuts off??

I thought I may be missing an actual external idle screw that supposed is optional to use on the side of the carb where there are pre exist thread's, but I happen to have the oem tors setup .
A yahama dealer guy told me that they're may be an idle up adjustment on the tors unit itself or up at the thumb throttle ?

So no lean or rich symptoms
No hard start
No clouds of white or blue smoke .
Just a normal 40:1 setup

Just no idle point as if things off gas it's shutting down .
Pop seat off and you will see the idle adjustment screw on tors. Most run a 32:1 ratio on these blasters. At 40:1 you will be alittle richer on the fuel side because you are using less oil in the mixture.
 
So start it up keep it running and asdjuat the tors screw out or in? Until it gains some type of an idle?

Any illustrations cna post of the actual tors adjustment I'm looking for ?

And i just did a perfect 5 gallon gas can with 16 ounces of yamalube 40:1
So you recommend 32:1 with stock carb stock 230 jet
I really hope this is the idle issue seems that's all it could be the carb is spotless and the needle and seat is perfect not leaking out over flow at all.
 
So start it up keep it running and asdjuat the tors screw out or in? Until it gains some type of an idle?

Any illustrations cna post of the actual tors adjustment I'm looking for ?

And i just did a perfect 5 gallon gas can with 16 ounces of yamalube 40:1
So you recommend 32:1 with stock carb stock 230 jet
I really hope this is the idle issue seems that's all it could be the carb is spotless and the needle and seat is perfect not leaking out over flow at all.
I wanted to mention I flipped my stock reeds noone said you can't I notice a little bit of light gap on one reed wasn't to bad but not completely uniform with the other reeds . Some light is normal but I figured flip them so the wear is on the opposite side now. If this makes sense ?
I have new carbon fiber power reeds on order .
 
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I wanted to mention I flipped my stock reeds noone said you can't I notice a little bit of light gap on one reed wasn't to bad but not completely uniform with the other reeds . Some light is normal but I figured flip them so the wear is on the opposite side now. If this makes sense ?
I have new carbon fiber power reeds on order .
I'm new too blasters here, I had a 03 banshee in 2008 and it needed nothing so naturally I didn't have to ever work on it ...but blasters seem good and adverse with the option too customize and parts swapping from other quads .
 
So start it up keep it running and asdjuat the tors screw out or in? Until it gains some type of an idle?

Any illustrations cna post of the actual tors adjustment I'm looking for ?

And i just did a perfect 5 gallon gas can with 16 ounces of yamalube 40:1
So you recommend 32:1 with stock carb stock 230 jet
I really hope this is the idle issue seems that's all it could be the carb is spotless and the needle and seat is perfect not leaking out over flow at all.
With premixing at 32:1 you have to go up one size on the main sometimes. Depends on altitude temp ect.. At 40:1 there is less oil in the gas . and you may not need to change main.plug chops can confirm jetting. But i have successfully run 40:1 in. In everything from dirtbikes to my blaster in the past with good premix oil. Basically ran everything on one ratio.. It was just easier with one can.
 
Pop seat off and you will see the idle adjustment screw on tors. Most run a 32:1 ratio on these blasters. At 40:1 you will be alittle richer on the fuel side because you are using less oil in the mixture.
On that tors idle adjustment screw do you know if clockwise raises the idle ? And I wasn't sure if I should start with it mostly screwed in clockwise cause it's way out of wack
Thanks in advance
 
On that tors idle adjustment screw do you know if clockwise raises the idle ? And I wasn't sure if I should start with it mostly screwed in clockwise cause it's way out of wack
Thanks in advance
You should start it and then make adjustments
Clockwise should raise the idle up.
 
You should start it and then make adjustments
Clockwise should raise the idle up.
Got it all back to good, clockwise the tors screw till high idle backed it down just before stall, so it was either high or stalling then realized idle air mixture needed adjustment.
I will move too 32:1 as mentioned even though a dealer said 40:1 should be ok
 
  • Like
Reactions: Slydog
I wanted to mention I flipped my stock reeds noone said you can't I notice a little bit of light gap on one reed wasn't to bad but not completely uniform with the other reeds . Some light is normal but I figured flip them so the wear is on the opposite side now. If this makes sense ?
I have new carbon fiber power reeds on order .
You should put the reeds in when they arrive
Good job. You got it figured out