Rebuild on the "FREE SHEE"
- Thread starter Wifesblaster
- Start date
Figured I'd add in a few things.
Buy (or do like me and fabricate) a support bar under your rears. It'll keep them from flapping and sagging, but yours may not need it after the cut fenders. I put Velcro on mine to stop upward movement and to give a bit of cushion to help prevent light spots on the plastics.
F.A.S.T sells a set of lighter tension springs for the carbs that are great. It doesn't cure the yama-thumb, but it does delay the onset.
The bracket that goes between the pipes and the frame that has the bushing in it will break one day. Go ahead and drill it twice and throw 2 bolts and lock nuts through it. Also, some of the left side T5s are welded a tad off and will tap the head in the lower RPM range. If yours is like that, space it with 2 washers.
If you don't have them already, replace the drain screws on your carbs with allen screws and add a tad bit of anti-seize. They'll strip. Do the same thing for your thumb throttle top for the same reason.
Gusset the radiator support/handlebar mounting bar. That bar will bend very easily if the handlebars hit in a wreck. Bending it back is nearly impossible to do in a short amount of time because there's nothing to pry against.
A piece of rubber on top of the lock-in piece on the seat where it latches in will help it feel a bit more stable. My 06 uses 3 strips of 1/8". My dads 94 doesn't need them because he added the rubber under the seat. Feels super solid. Again, some banshees have his problem, some don't.
You should remove the slide bolts in the calipers and clean and lube them about every 3-4 years. They'll sieze up and break or be stripped in the process. I think Yamaha quit selling them. I've seen 2 instances of this in the past 4 months. 94 model and a 03 model.
Do the rounded shift star mod.
Upgrade the stator cover screws to bolts. All but 1 of mine came out without a hitch last week and I scratched my cover all up trying to get that last farker out.
Take a grinder to the steering stem and cut the stops down some. I cut mine down by 1/4" on each side and wish I'd stayed at 3/16". That's about where it felt best; any more and you'll be hitting your knees with the handlebars. If I'd had juuuuuuuuust a tad more wheel angle, I wouldn't have found out that the radiator/handlebar support bar needs to be gusseted (see above).
Put a tad bit of lube on the petcock selector. It sits about an inch from the T5s and you'll burn yourself from having to put effort into turning it if it ever gets stiff. I'm telling you, do it. Skin doesn't like Toomeys.
Upgrade to the billet impeller if you haven't already (I may have missed it). BansheeHQ, E2S, and a few others have had quite a few threads ended with, "Impeller was rounded and had no fins. No clue what happened, it was just like that when I took it off. Replaced it and fixed the problem."
Now for a few questions:
-What premix are you running? Ratio?
-What was your final jetting?
-What's the static compression? (125-135 with the 22s, I'm guessing) Also, does yours have less compression on the left cylinder? Mine, a friend, another friend, and my dads all have 1-2lbs less compression on the left side. It's just a curiosity thing, don't kill me.
-How is the stability, grip, and roll? I was looking at those same A-arms and shocks...
Buy (or do like me and fabricate) a support bar under your rears. It'll keep them from flapping and sagging, but yours may not need it after the cut fenders. I put Velcro on mine to stop upward movement and to give a bit of cushion to help prevent light spots on the plastics.
F.A.S.T sells a set of lighter tension springs for the carbs that are great. It doesn't cure the yama-thumb, but it does delay the onset.
The bracket that goes between the pipes and the frame that has the bushing in it will break one day. Go ahead and drill it twice and throw 2 bolts and lock nuts through it. Also, some of the left side T5s are welded a tad off and will tap the head in the lower RPM range. If yours is like that, space it with 2 washers.
If you don't have them already, replace the drain screws on your carbs with allen screws and add a tad bit of anti-seize. They'll strip. Do the same thing for your thumb throttle top for the same reason.
Gusset the radiator support/handlebar mounting bar. That bar will bend very easily if the handlebars hit in a wreck. Bending it back is nearly impossible to do in a short amount of time because there's nothing to pry against.
A piece of rubber on top of the lock-in piece on the seat where it latches in will help it feel a bit more stable. My 06 uses 3 strips of 1/8". My dads 94 doesn't need them because he added the rubber under the seat. Feels super solid. Again, some banshees have his problem, some don't.
You should remove the slide bolts in the calipers and clean and lube them about every 3-4 years. They'll sieze up and break or be stripped in the process. I think Yamaha quit selling them. I've seen 2 instances of this in the past 4 months. 94 model and a 03 model.
Do the rounded shift star mod.
Upgrade the stator cover screws to bolts. All but 1 of mine came out without a hitch last week and I scratched my cover all up trying to get that last farker out.
Take a grinder to the steering stem and cut the stops down some. I cut mine down by 1/4" on each side and wish I'd stayed at 3/16". That's about where it felt best; any more and you'll be hitting your knees with the handlebars. If I'd had juuuuuuuuust a tad more wheel angle, I wouldn't have found out that the radiator/handlebar support bar needs to be gusseted (see above).
Put a tad bit of lube on the petcock selector. It sits about an inch from the T5s and you'll burn yourself from having to put effort into turning it if it ever gets stiff. I'm telling you, do it. Skin doesn't like Toomeys.
Upgrade to the billet impeller if you haven't already (I may have missed it). BansheeHQ, E2S, and a few others have had quite a few threads ended with, "Impeller was rounded and had no fins. No clue what happened, it was just like that when I took it off. Replaced it and fixed the problem."
Now for a few questions:
-What premix are you running? Ratio?
-What was your final jetting?
-What's the static compression? (125-135 with the 22s, I'm guessing) Also, does yours have less compression on the left cylinder? Mine, a friend, another friend, and my dads all have 1-2lbs less compression on the left side. It's just a curiosity thing, don't kill me.
-How is the stability, grip, and roll? I was looking at those same A-arms and shocks...
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I already made a bracket for the rear fenders. I will be dropping in a hot rods crank and mounting DMC 916 pipes soon. I will look at the other things. Thanks for all the suggestions.
Not sure what compression is. I would say around 130.
I like the a arms. I will be putting triple rates on the front soon.
My jetting was never completely dialed in. I suspect I have an air leak. That will get taken care of when I put the crank in.
I like the a arms. I will be putting triple rates on the front soon.
My jetting was never completely dialed in. I suspect I have an air leak. That will get taken care of when I put the crank in.
If you want to trade or sell those double rates, I'd be interested in them.
Stepping down to 21cc domes gives it a nice feel to it. I had 150 at 145'ASL with them. The power seems to be accompanied by a little more power on the left side of the dyno (the butt dyno).
Stepping down to 21cc domes gives it a nice feel to it. I had 150 at 145'ASL with them. The power seems to be accompanied by a little more power on the left side of the dyno (the butt dyno).
Oh, and I know someone who really wants a set of toomeys. PM me if you want to get rid of them.
Also, go ahead and get the crank welded while it's out. Some people twist them up with 50+hp (which I'm sure you have)
Also, go ahead and get the crank welded while it's out. Some people twist them up with 50+hp (which I'm sure you have)
I rode this thing last yr and it was a monster, can only imagine what it will be when ur done!!
Well I already have a welded hot rods crank, DMC pipes and new domes to up the compression. Should be sweet.
Awesome build man !! Love itMade some progress last night. Still have some tuning to do. I will be ordering a 13 tooth front sprocket soon. Top speed is to high with 14/40.
Oh, do tell!
I just got Redline Racing to build a Serval for mine. Made 91whp and 51lb.ft. on VP110.
Well mine wont be doing that lol. Just going with a -1 lonestar swinger, 18cc domes, SS welded hot rods crank, bored stock carbs, 916 pipes, alba nerfs with heel guards, Magura hydro clutch, and a polished stator cover. I have nowhere to ride a bike with 70+ hp. My TRX 501 is a handful and dynoed at 64hp.
Easier to transfer weight onto the rear tires, grips like hell out of a corner, makes the front end feel lighter with steering.
Banshees are really front heavy in stock trim. Almsot all arms come +1" forward, nerfs are easy to get with race position pegs, people run the swingarms all the way up to -2.5". It makes a significant difference.
I saw your asanine comment about my YFZ! Don't need no Honda 'round huur cept fur generators.
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