Rebuild on the "FREE SHEE"

Wifesblaster

Built not bought
Feb 10, 2012
3,513
111
105
44
Maryland
So this is the free banshee I got today. Looks like it's going to need a motor (1,000 dollars on ebay), rear brake caliper, clutch lever/perch, pipes, and an airbox. It had the 2 into 1 carb setup. I plan on selling that and going back to a dual carb setup. I know nothing about these bikes so I will be like a newbie. I will download the manual and read until my eyes bleed. This will be a long build cause I am not done with the blaster yet. Here are some pics.

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Wheels were not mounted tight.
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The guy said he has the cool head and he will give it to me when he finds it. the bottom end has a puddle of water in it! I think I'll just get a motor on ebay and sell the parts from this motor.
 
Just another money pit! I just added up the total build on my black blaster and it came to 6 grand! That's after I buy $270 nerfs, $125 levers, and $170 decal kit. I'm going to try to keep this build a little cheaper.
 
Looks like you have your work cut out for you :eek:.

Whatever you do, DO NOT buy anything from Motor City ATV aka Minkia38. If you want me to linc you to many threads about that shyster I will. You just tell me how much you want to read about Rattle Can Ray. X(

JMHO, but if it were me I would build that engine rather than take a chance on unknown from Egay. Did my son's for $850, crank, bore, pistons, gaskets, seals, 3Bond, and gasket spray. Here is where I got it: Lakes Motorsports - Waterford, MI - Parts - Accessories -yamaha - Wiseco Dist - E-ton - Mini Quad - Used Snowmobiles - MX - ATV - Street - Motorcycles I think this is the "kit" we got:YAMAHA YFZ350 BANSHEE 4MM STROKER CRANK PISTONS KIT from ATV Parts & Accessories. I have known Mike for over 10 years, been in business nearly 20 years. He is precise enough that aperently ther was minute difference between the pistons that the pistons and jugs were marked "A" & "B". I:I
 
welcome to the 5G's + blaster club, LOL
good starting point on the shee for a complete rebuild.
no way are you keeping that build cheap, shee stuff adds up quick !
the manual is on here in the yamaha section.
 
The guy said he has the cool head and he will give it to me when he finds it. the bottom end has a puddle of water in it! I think I'll just get a motor on ebay and sell the parts from this motor.

that sounds like a good route.

the shee looks to be in good shape, minus the motor, some wreching and some tlc and i bet shell look great.

how did you manage to get it for free if you dont mind me asking.

stratton.
 
It was given to a guy down the street a couple years ago. He had way to many projects going on so he let it sit outside for a while. He said the bottom end was good, but as you can see there is a puddle of water in it now. Anyway he came over and saw my bikes. He said "Are you interested in another project, it's free." And the next day I had it in my garage. He has a LOT of toys, so I'm sure he's not going to miss this one. I will be running the vin later.
 
I ran the vin it is not stolen. Well at least not reported stolen. I also verified its a 1996. Only mods I have seen so far is Nerf bars, cool head, and trinity 2 into 1 intake with what looks to be a 36 pj carb.
 
So here is the update. I went to unbolt the motor and it was already unbolted. The bolts were under the seat. So i yanked the motor and turned it upside down to get all the water/oil out. It was like a thick sludge.
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So I got most of it out and filled it with degreaser. I know this wasnt a great idea, but remember I was already planning on getting a new motor. So it cleaned it up pretty good. I dumped it out and filled it up again with degreaser. Should be pretty clean after this wash. The crank spins very freely and the rod bearings have zero play in them. I'm now thinking I should split this motor and see what it looks like. If I could get away with main bearings and seals that would be awesome. It looks like rust, but like I said there must have been a lot of oil in there because it's like a sludge.

I cant download and print the manual until I go to work Monday. So I have two questions. (1) What goes in this whole by the stator wires and the clutch acuator?

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Question number two. This is a cool head what goes on the top of it?
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I will have a manual soon and should be able to build it fairly easy. Right now I'm in the dark though. I have no idea how to route the coolant lines. I wont be doing that for a while anyway! :) So what do you guys think? All advice and suggestions is always appreciated.
 
Not going to do much on it today. Can somebody tell me what oes on top of the head and holds those domes in place.
 
Looks like a great start especially for the price.Nice score.I bet you can send that motor out for a complete rebuild and save a few bucks.How do the cases look where the front sprocket is? The shees are just like blasters.Lots of cases have chain wack from the chain.If yours just has normal to no chain wack then I would say they are worth saving.
 
Looks like a great start especially for the price.Nice score.I bet you can send that motor out for a complete rebuild and save a few bucks.How do the cases look where the front sprocket is? The shees are just like blasters.Lots of cases have chain wack from the chain.If yours just has normal to no chain wack then I would say they are worth saving.

The cases don't have any damage. Can you give me any ideas on a good setup. If I get this motor rebuilt I want to stroke it and get it ported. I don't want to have to trench the cases, so I'm thinking 4mm. Already has a cool head on it, but one of the domes is knocked up a little bit. So my question is if I do a 4mm crank what cc domes and what size carbs should I run? I plan on going with t5 pipes. From what I've read they are pretty good. I will be riding trails and tracks. Just looking for a good setup that won't break the bank.