Pilot Jet down grade... REALLY?

[chee_dee]

So my Blaster has:
FMF Header + Silencer.
No Airbox lid,
standard Foam filter
300 Main Jet
32.5 Pilot Jet.

My problem is on adjusting the Air Screw of Pilot circuit.

If I leave it at 1.5 turns, bike starts fine, no high idle but transition to mid range is very crappy.

If I adjust it to around 4 turns out, bike performs very nice, transition to mid range is strong, but on cold starts, bike has a really high hanging idle till it warms up.

Should I go one size pilot down?
Should focus on adjusting the needle (midrange)? currently on 2 slot from top.
Should I decrease MAIN JET?

Please assist.

 

[Larry's Shee]

First make sure you can see through the tiny hole in pilot jet and also the side of the emulsion tube/main jet holder. Be sure air blows through all passages. Make sure the float height is correct.
I don't recall anyone that needed anything but stock pilot in stock carb. My build included.
After you make sure everything is perfect in the carb then start tuning. Make sure you have the slosh baffle and main jet washer in place. In tuning only change one thing at a time.
Do all tuning with engine warm. Try idle screw for cold idle. I personally don't worry much about warmups. I am usually blipping the throttle.

 

[chee_dee]

First make sure you can see through the tiny hole in pilot jet and also the side of the emulsion tube/main jet holder. Be sure air blows through all passages. Make sure the float height is correct.

Done!

I don't recall anyone that needed anything but stock pilot in stock carb. My build included.

That's how I understand it as well but all the signs shows towards going smaller pilot hench I am also thinking something else is wrong.

After you make sure everything is perfect in the carb then start tuning. Make sure you have the slosh baffle and main jet washer in place. In tuning only change one thing at a time.
Do all tuning with engine warm. Try idle screw for cold idle. I personally don't worry much about warmups. I am usually blipping the throttle.

This is what I have been doing that led me to the post. I will however start again from scratch.

 

[Larry's Shee]

I'm not saying it isn't possible, as all machines are different.
Have you tried adjusting the needle? First try raising (richer) , then try one notch leaner from original. Might also try adjusting air screw a little. Small increments.

You really should find the diagram showing what circuits affect what throttle opening, and relationship of overlap.
Have you verified the holes in side of emulsion tube/main jet holder are clear? Verified that slide and emulsion tube , needle, and slide are Blaster parts? The carb is nearly identical to a Banshee, and will fit, but may be different. I know this for a fact because I sold my old needle because someone replaced his needle with a Banshee and it didn't work.

Have you done a plug chop for the main? Seems a little big for your setup. You can also do part throttle chops.

 

[Larry's Shee]

http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm

I like this one better
https://images.app.goo.gl/Nnfn5vJoDYR7mpkQ6

 

[Larry's Shee]

Throttle valve=slide , relates to cutaway angle