Pickup/Pulser Coil: Real Specs?

r2palmer

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Jun 4, 2008
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Can't figure out how to delete this post, so I'll edit it instead. Found the answer, it's 16-24 ohms. Clymer manual was confusing me.
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I'm confused about what an ohmmeter should read for the resistance on a Blaster stator's Pickup (or Pulser) coil.

Downloadable service manual says 72 to 108 ohms; several other online sites say 16 to 24 ohms.

I just tested six different stators, all from previously running Blasters, and five of them had a pickup coil resistance around 19 to 23 ohms. To me that's too many coils, too close in ohms, to coincidentally all be identically bad, especially since they were from running Blasters that failed for other reasons (pistons mostly).

Is the service manual wrong? What's the real deal on pulser/pickup coil resistance, and "Says what document?". Thanks.
 
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bump on this one......does anybody know the answer to this? mine also test 19ish. before i go ordering a non returnable part is that a normal reading?
 
Theres quite a bit to electrical testing. Your DMM will vary depending on quality. Temprature of the area youre working on will affect the test.

Honestly, in my experience, as long as youre getting a reading, it works. Ive never seen a stator fail that actually read something on a coil. However that isnt law. So dont take it as such. Just stating MY experience.

My blasters stator is currently OUT of spec on I think one of the coils and it runs perfect and my headlight works great too.

Whats your REAL issue? Why are you chasing down stator resistances?
 
check my thread about random dying out in the engine section.
i have been searching around all the electric stuff i can trying to find an answer.
 
Hi, sorry to bump an old thread but maybe someone reading today has info on this.
My 06 Blaster won't start, spark is there but I'm not sure it's hot enough. My pickup coil is reading 20 ohms, which is out of spec according to the factory info, but right around the value the guy was getting on his in this thread.
I was about to get a new one but now not sure what to do?
 
Hi, sorry to bump an old thread but maybe someone reading today has info on this.
My 06 Blaster won't start, spark is there but I'm not sure it's hot enough. My pickup coil is reading 20 ohms, which is out of spec according to the factory info, but right around the value the guy was getting on his in this thread.
I was about to get a new one but now not sure what to do?
I would follow factory specs.they designed
And built it . i assume they know what they are talking about.imo if not in the range it will probably not perform as intended or not at all
 
I would follow factory specs.they designed
And built it . i assume they know what they are talking about.imo if not in the range it will probably not perform as intended or not at all

it is not uncommon for factory specs to be wrong sometimes. very interesting how the guy checked 6 stators and the coils all measured the same lower number, same as mine.
meanwhile I thought my spark was weak but I figured out the compression is low. i was only doubting the pickup coil because it wouldn't start, but now i know the real reason.
 
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it is not uncommon for factory specs to be wrong sometimes. very interesting how the guy checked 6 stators and the coils all measured the same lower number, same as mine.
meanwhile I thought my spark was weak but I figured out the compression is low. i was only doubting the pickup coil because it wouldn't start, but now i know the real reason.
Lack of compression will do it. You going to bore it? You shouldn't fall prey to those cheap junk rebuild kits with a cylinder and everything.most regret it
 
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it is not uncommon for factory specs to be wrong sometimes. very interesting how the guy checked 6 stators and the coils all measured the same lower number, same as mine.
meanwhile I thought my spark was weak but I figured out the compression is low. i was only doubting the pickup coil because it wouldn't start, but now i know the real reason.
Yes they are wrong occassionaly.
 
Lack of compression will do it. You going to bore it? You shouldn't fall prey to those cheap junk rebuild kits with a cylinder and everything.most regret it

i saw a kit on amazon for $65 with piston/cylinder. was thinking of getting that but what else can i do? i still need to get the engine out and measure the bore.
dang swingarm bolt is giving me grief now, problems are compounding:)
 
got the swingarm bolt out with the help of a propane torch and impact hammer.
the bore is scratched up pretty good.
 

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i saw a kit on amazon for $65 with piston/cylinder. was thinking of getting that but what else can i do? i still need to get the engine out and measure the bore.
dang swingarm bolt is giving me grief now, problems are compounding:)
Leave the motor in unless you are splitting cases to change crank.clean engine good and under gas tank.pull head and cylinder off. I find it easier in the frame .motor is secure and not moving around during assembly and tourqeing
 
If taking motor out . block under frame. That pivot bolt looks pretty bad.needs to be cleaned up and apply some water proof grease on it.so you don't have that problem
 
did a leakdown check, actually just put compressed air in the sparkplug hole with piston at TDC. lots of air is escaping through the exhaust port.

i guess the reed valves stop the air from leaking out the intake port.
 
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did a leakdown check, actually just put compressed air in the sparkplug hole with piston at TDC. lots of air is escaping through the exhaust port.

i guess the reed valves stop the air from leaking out the intake port.
This is not a 4 stroke. These are tested with 5 or 6 psi. With a gauge. Exhaust is blocked off . carb removed and adapter installed to. Pressurise to 5 or 6 psi. For 5 minutes and watch to if it drops.do a leakdown search on here. High. Pressure will blow crank seals out.
 
This is not a 4 stroke. These are tested with 5 or 6 psi. With a gauge. Exhaust is blocked off . carb removed and adapter installed to. Pressurise to 5 or 6 psi. For 5 minutes and watch to if it drops.do a leakdown search on here. High. Pressure will blow crank seals out.

thanks, yes, i did some reading and saw the 6 psi test. i was probably putting about 30psi to it, but the crank/piston blowby was so bad i doubt i hurt anything.
the small end roller bearing looks like crap but the Wiesco kit includes a new one.

I'm wondering if i should take this whole thing apart and check the crank bearings now..
 

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thanks, yes, i did some reading and saw the 6 psi test. i was probably putting about 30psi to it, but the crank/piston blowby was so bad i doubt i hurt anything.
the small end roller bearing looks like crap but the Wiesco kit includes a new one.

I'm wondering if i should take this whole thing apart and check the crank bearings now..
30 psi probably blew the seals out. Do you have a air filter on that? Is that mud in there?rusty water? I. Don't think you have much choice but to tear it down. If that wristpin bearing looks like the crank is probably the same. Do you have a clymers manual? I would recommend one. It's actually a very easy motor to do. Imo. They split from clutch side
 
30 psi probably blew the seals out. Do you have a air filter on that? Is that mud in there?rusty water? I. Don't think you have much choice but to tear it down. If that wristpin bearing looks like the crank is probably the same. Do you have a clymers manual? I would recommend one. It's actually a very easy motor to do. Imo. They split from clutch side

this thing sat for a year at my neighbor's house. i did some work for him he gave me this. it sat at my house for another 2 years. I'm tired of looking at it and taking it as a challenge to get running now that were semi-locked down.

anyway, the seal behind the flywheel looks fine. is there a seal on the clutch side too?
blown or not, the seals are 14 years old, wouldn't hurt to change them either way. seems the 2 stroke needs an airtight crankcase to work properly, so even more reason.

regarding bearings, i was thinking the same, if the small end bearing is that bad, the big end is probably the same.
how is the big bearing replaced? does the crankshaft have to be split?

oh also, i found water mixed in the oil tank, so that may have been going into the engine for a while.
 
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this thing sat for a year at my neighbor's house. i did some work for him he gave me this. it sat at my house for another 2 years. I'm tired of looking at it and taking it as a challenge to get running now that were semi-locked down.

anyway, the seal behind the flywheel looks fine. is there a seal on the clutch side too?
blown or not, the seals are 14 years old, wouldn't hurt to change them either way. seems the 2 stroke needs an airtight crankcase to work properly, so even more reason.

regarding bearings, i was thinking the same, if the small end bearing is that bad, the big end is probably the same.
how is the big bearing replaced? does the crankshaft have to be split?

oh also, i found water mixed in the oil tank, so that may have been going into the engine for a while.
Water injection:eek:. With the proper tools. To push/pull crank. And split cases . it's not that difficult to tear down. If you think it is something you can do get a clymers manual or equivalent. To change big end rod bearing
Then crank would have to be split at machine shop. As for crank main bearings
They are just pulled off each end of crankshaft. Your right on the 14 year old seals. Ken oconner racing can do whatever you need done.as far as crank rebuilding,boring ect ect
 
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this thing sat for a year at my neighbor's house. i did some work for him he gave me this. it sat at my house for another 2 years. I'm tired of looking at it and taking it as a challenge to get running now that were semi-locked down.

anyway, the seal behind the flywheel looks fine. is there a seal on the clutch side too?
blown or not, the seals are 14 years old, wouldn't hurt to change them either way. seems the 2 stroke needs an airtight crankcase to work properly, so even more reason.

regarding bearings, i was thinking the same, if the small end bearing is that bad, the big end is probably the same.
how is the big bearing replaced? does the crankshaft have to be split?

oh also, i found water mixed in the oil tank, so that may have been going into the engine for a while.
Seals can “look fine” but not work. ONLY a leak down test tell you the truth. Actually with the age, NEW SEALS should be considered routine maintenance
 
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