Newly Installed Clutch Pads

Discussion in 'Engine' started by Jaeger, Aug 9, 2019.

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  1. Jaeger

    Jaeger New Member

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    Hello,

    This is my first time posting here. I've tried to find information on this subject here on the forums, the service manual, and a couple friends. Maybe I'm just blind, but I couldn't find it.

    The problem is the clutch doesn't seem to be engaging when I squeeze the lever (I made sure it's lined up on the engine case). The second I put it into first it just lurches forward and dies. Starts up on the first kick and idles just fine though. It had started doing this last summer so I decided to store it and overhaul it the next year to try to find the issue.

    Fast forward to now and I finished putting it all back together and torquing everything to spec according to the service manual. It's a 1999 Blaster (the one in my profile pic) and the only aftermarket mods it has are the DG exhaust pipe and muffler, and Boyesan 630 power reeds (installed a day ago because I noticed the old ones had a worn edge). I also disabled/removed the oil pump system (pre-mixing now) and the TORS. I won't go into cosmetic work done, but I pulled the cylinder off to inspect and clean the walls, piston, rings, etc (all looked good) and new gaskets installed. Pulled the clutch cover off and replaced the clutch pads and springs with new ones, everything torqued, and new Bel Ray 80W oil added (suggested by Ray C's bike shop). Did a leak down test on the motor and found no bubbles. The carb is clean as a whistle and has the stock 230 jet and I've made sure the mix screw is at the stock 1.5 position.

    So my main concern is, did I install the clutch plates right? Like I said above I couldn't find a specific order for them anywhere. Youtube video and a friend said just just make sure the little bumps on the plates don't overlap so I tried to space them out evenly, and I made sure the dot on the cover matched up with the dot on the basket before torquing down. The bike still starts right up on the first kick while in neutral and idles strong, but when I hold the clutch and put into first it still just lurches forward and dies. I'm no pro mechanic, but I've tried doing everything by the book with this thing and its got me stumped.

    Thanks!


    Pictured: before and after on the bike. I pulled this thing apart "completely" and if I found a speck of dirt/rust/old grease, it got removed. Hung up all the frame parts, prepped and painted painted with tractor primer and paint. Every joint, arm, bearing has been cleaned and packed with fresh grease. Aside from the beat up plastics, sitting on this bike feels like it's brand new. Spent about 3 weeks just going to town on this thing replacing anything that looked worn (cept for the body paneling). (I can't seem to add images or use the media gallery, sorry.)
     
    Last edited: Aug 9, 2019
  2. Awk08

    Awk08 Administrator Staff Member Technician

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    Did you soak the new fibers in your chosen oil overnight before installing them ?
    the maunual calls for 10w-30 non additive oil, not 80 weight, although many have ran the gearsaver
    I like Mobile1 4T 10w-40 for wet clutch motorcycles
    available at most auto stores and walmart

    Is the ball between the 2 rods, and not welded to one of the rods ?
    is the pointer on the case notch using the rod adjustment with cable disconnected ?
    is the basket fingers grooved badly preventing the fibers/plates from disengaging ?


    [​IMG]

    cl.jpg


    And although the DG pipe is supposedly not much better than stock, and you deleted the oil injection (mixing the oil = less fuel), and any other mods to the airfilter/box/lid off, will require more fuel (bigger main jet) to compensate for those.
    I'm guessing the stock main 230 is too lean
    more like 250/260 may be required ?
    I suggest some plug chops for that main jetting .....
    https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/how-to-plug-chop.53237/
     
  3. Jaeger

    Jaeger New Member

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    Sorry for the slow reply.

    I didn't soak the pads overnight, I just dipped them in oil and installed them.

    I managed to take the clutch apart last night and make sure everything was properly adjusted and torqued. I had the clutch adjustment screw too loose, so I pulled off the cable and fixed that. Made sure pulling the handle properly disengages and engages the clutch, and now it shifts just fine. There was some grooving from me not having it adjusted right so I carefully filed them down a bit. Kinda bummed me out since the basket had no wear on it when I first started. The ball bearing is also okay as it rolled out while pulling the clutch apart.

    So now that it shifts properly again it's still not getting enough power. It will just putz along in 1st or 2nd until it dies. I'll take your advice and buy a bigger jet, but I don't know if I want to try that plug chop, sounds like I'd mess up at making it.

    Thanks!

    [edit]

    Just ordered a #250 and #260 jet online. Soon as those get here I'll install, adjust mixture screw, then let you know which worked best!
     
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2019 at 5:34 PM
  4. Jaeger

    Jaeger New Member

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    Alright. I'm an idiot and should have checked this from the start. I replaced the old nasty foam air filter with one of those nice mesh oval pod filters. I tried riding the bike with no filter and it ran great. The mistake: I put K&N filter oil on it and it was suffocating my engine. I put it against a flat surface and blew into the top and almost no air was escaping. So after washing it off in gasoline and leaving to dry for an hour I put it back on and the bike ran strong. Rode around the neighborhood a few laps with zero issues.

    After this whole time scratching my head at the entire system (air intake, carb, motor, and exhaust) being cleaner than an orchestral instrument but not running, it was just because I had oil that blocked up the air filter.

    Thanks for all the help and tips!
     
    Awk08 likes this.

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