New Project: 2001 Honda CR80R

[deeeebeeeeee]

Pick this one up for $500. So far I have found it needs a rear tire, front brake pads, fuel line, tank flushed, and a leak at the header fixed. I just unloaded it ten minutes ago, compression is good starts first kick. I haven't leak tested yet but I am figuring the brake lines and the radiator will need flushed, going to get gaskets and check the reeds as well, looks stock except for break-away levers, and for some reason the plastic is painted, and I think it wouldn't to put new hoses on the cooling system.


If there is anything specific, I should be looking for on this big 80 (82cc) when I got over it please let me know.
It is the standard cr80r not the expert, funny at 5'9" tall and 130 it seems the perfect size for me. It cracked me up these 6 for tall 160-175 pound guys are talking about how dangerous it is and jthat they would be afraid to let a 70lb kid ride ot.
It was all I could do to keep a straight face, thinking about those tall top heavy guys bottoming out the shocks and having it come up and out for under them. Maybe if they weren't double the size that the bike was designed for , they wouldn't have such a hard time e riding it. Also noticed it has a pro circuit silencer, should be enough to keep my little 10year old with cajones of steel, and pretty good balance and reflexes to match busy for a while. I would have got him a 65 if it were available. But i can always lower the rear drop the forks an inch of so and drown it at WOT until he gets used to the band, I want him to have to think about and work a little to keep it on the pipe, rather than be surprised when the light switch turns itself on or off for that matter.

 

[pudvah]

Can't wait for my boy to be old enough to ride, he's only 14 months right now but I already have him riding a power wheels quad. Lol

 

[pudvah]

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Yeah, yeeaah! that's awesome, My little ones (now 3 and 4) started the same way except theirs was dark purple. My daughter 3 is the bravest, she sits on the edge of the tank in front of me and if they're isn't a wheel lifting, spinning or sliding, she impatiently demands go daddy go. She got it from her mamma.

This bike is for my bigger boys (step sons 10 and 13) the 10 year old is the adventurous one where the 13 year old is more likely to use it to cruise around on I will probably have to get a hot plug for the older one, he almost fouled the blaster out trying to 4 stroke it around at just over idle.

I need to figure out a good way to detune it a little bit, I figure I can up the main jet a couple sizes where it's pretty rich at WOT, just to soften the band a bit?

As soon as my little ones get big enough I am grabbing them a little pw50, I will put training wheels on it if I have to.

 

[jvb]

We wanna see some pics. Deeeebeeeee

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

We wanna see some pics. Deeeebeeeee

No problem looks like it's got a Kx80 shock on the rear, I did check the plastics and the are the right colors under the paint. Should be enough of these bikes here and there at the wreckers and such to fix it up proper.

 

[jvb]

Very nice!
About the rear shock, it fits and works good? probably just a green spring... just spray that spring yellow.
And the plastics for dirt bikes are dirt cheap in comparison to the Blaster
get an xtra set of big wheels and the longer swing-arm for it and the kids (or you lol ) can ride it for years to come!
Have you already drag raced it against the blaster?
Here a pic of an big wheel version,

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Sweet so the big wheel version is the same except for the wheels and swingarm? The forks and all that is the same, except maybe the gearing?
I did look, the spring is just painted it looks like he had it black and neon kawi green for a while, the grips are kawi labeled.

I an trying to find an owners manual and service manual if anyone has the pdf files that would be sweet.
I did lower (or is it raise) the forks and dropped the spring, got to get it short enough that he can at least tip toe on one side or another, right now he has to jump on and off to start and stop.

Just won a graphics kit for $15
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Senge-Graph...iyEX9KnSIu1164HCp4vOU%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc
I bid before I realized it was for a 93-95 model. But most of it should fit decent enough, I am sure the radiator shroud might tale some fitting but oh well its $15.
I plan to color it back to as close to stock as possible, with the exception of the break away levers they can stay anodized green.

I wish I had someone to drive one of them for a real drag race, but even if I put a trail 90 up against a banshee, the one I am on is going to win. My oldest is a wussy, and my younger one is just learning, by the end of next summer he should be able to drag or xc race with me.

 

[jvb]

https://www.google.nl/url?sa=t&sour...YEnBZg&usg=AFQjCNHukTTbnSHjYtceMA4hWbKjUw31Ug

Yep, they are the same.
Here in Holland it's being done alot, swap the swing-arm and wheels that way it takes a long time to out-grow it
And you probably lowered the front fork tubes in the steering stem.
About the drag race, you could always try to get your wife to get on one of the two...nothing hard about it ,just pin it and shift it with no clutch

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Lol I can see my wife trying that one about the time she hit second she would be going for a loop of some sort.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

I found a copy of the factory service manual covers 96-05? or cr80 and 85, r and rb (expert). If anyone needs info from it let me know, I can send you what you want.

Got a few days off,as I am working weekends for the holidays. So, armed with the service manual and a couple milk crates it's time to tear into the cr and get it up to my standards, which really means it's got to be mechanically sound and ready to go, doesnt have to look good just run good, i really don't want any surprises on the trail. Besides it's pretty funny when someone sees your ride, and figures it runs as rough as it looks, funny thing is its really hard for them to see much with a faceful of dust or worse yet roost.

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Got the CR jetted, refilled the rsdiator with 50/50 instead of water (it came like that) cleaned the filter, new plug, fresh reeds Boyesen Pro dual stage fiberglass, 6mm ex. Pipe spacer plate (helps with bottom end,, softens band hit), still needs a rear tire, waterpump seal leaking out the weep hole), and i gotta get a spanner wrench or two, tired of sdjusting shocks the redneck way, and i left my welder along with everything else back in WV, at the little shop me and my dad shared. I guess he could weld one up for me but fwiw i will just get one.

I am getting an intermittent weak spark with the cr it wont even spark a bp10 half the time, i got a blaster plug in it now. I have checked the resistance on the coils, and trigger. They are in spec, cleaned up the grounds, checked and cleaned up all connections as well.
I havent pulled the fly wheel yet, and have not unhooked the kill button yet either.
Seems alot of people have a weak spark issue with the 80's, bit like most questions, no one ever comes back to say what fixed it. If anyone knows of a common issue with the late 90's early 2k cr's let me know.

Thanks
DeeBeee

 

[speedyslyder]

every CR i have owned
stock plug ngk 9
needed a ngk 8
to run properly.
i had a 01 cr80 as well
but i rebuilt top end....beat the crap out of it
and ended up locking up the crank 6 months later lol.
i was 19yrs old riding 125's anyways
i was out 200-250 bucks
got a crazy deal on it

my advice stock plug on that is BR 10
put a BR 9 in it/or your blaster 8 and LOOSE THE 'P'
i would try the next heat range first even though people on the www are running the 8's just fine.Up to you

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

I hear ya speedy, got a blaster bpr8 in it now i will get a bp9 next trip out, i got two of the bp10ek which has an platinum center electrode, and both acted fouled (fhey arent) out after 20 minutes.
Thanks
Deebee

 

[speedyslyder]

why the need for the 'p'????
and yes if it is stock at 10 then it deff needs a 9 or an 8 but might be too hot for the 8?
i ran cr125's on 8 for years...put a 9 in it which is stock for the 125 and no dice.
and it was no jetting airleak bullcrap i have had 3 of them lol 4 including the 80

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

I havent seen them without the p only brp (resistor plug) and bp (non resistor), tried to have them look up BR8 at autozone and they couldnt find it but when they looked up BP8 they got a few results. Yet just now when i googled NGK B8. B8es plugs come right up??
Wonder what the P stands for and why autozone doesnt have them without it??
Looks like i got some searching learning and reading to do.

That is interesting though because i bought two NGK BP10EK which is stock and tnat thing would barely run. Its absolutelyleak free, (left and went to town with just over 8 psi, came back an hour or more later and the guage hadn't budged), compression is 135# which i guess is ok for an p1 cr80. It runs just fine on a ngk 8 blaster plug.

Okdone my research, here is a couple decoding chsrts i found for ngk plugs. You might wsnt to repost them i the proper thread and see kf you can get it stickied, pretty good info.

Any how B is for 14mm. Threads P is projected tip, R is resistor, of course 8 is heat range, E is 19mm thread reach, and S is forsuper copper firing end type.
Pretty cool, takes the guess work out of plugs

 

[speedyslyder]

i have never tried running a projected tip on a blaster
or dirt bike,but other people on here have report problems with that plug.
or at least that is what they are saying?

the company's that made these engines did not make them with a projected tip sooo
im not going against there brains lol.

the PW50 has a projected spark plug stock??

just try a b8es in your blaster and try the br9es or br8es in your cr and see if there is a difference?

IF AUTOZONE DONT GOT A B8ES OR BR8ES then oh friggin well go somewheres else or order off line

there is threads on here of people discussing the projected tip and/or spark plugs but,who know really what is going on

 

[speedyslyder]

this was from a name less member

 

[speedyslyder]

That is interesting though because i bought two NGK BP10EK which is stock and tnat thing would barely run.

http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/having-some-bog-down-issues-need-help.59722/#post-741515


i dont see a p = projected tip
on here and i trust rockymountain

 

[deeeebeeeeee]

Very very interesting indeed, I thrive of information like this, like an incubus feeds off of women. Any chance I could get the link to the NGK tech info page (pic 2) I got a link to the NGK site but could not get to the tech info only look up plugs, it was linked to from google and was supposed to be the plug label decoder. It came up 404 not found.
It is crazy that auto zone didn't come up with anything the other day fro B8es maybe the guy typed it in the wrong place or something, since I started looking they are everywhere.

That's what I get for thinking that the guy working at a parts store knows squat, and not just assuming he screwed up when things didn't seem right at first.

Best I can tell based on the information is two strokes can benefit from the Projected nose as it may be harder to foul, but it could also cause detonation much easier.
Its funny, although I prefer two strokes, I never got a chance to own one when I was younger, as we didn't do any family riding and I needed to share a utility/hunting bike with my dad. When I got a little older I was way to into fast women, fast cars, and any other form of instant gratification I could get me hands on to spend any money on a bike, I remember when the banshee got a new frame, quadzilla came on the scene, warriors and ex's soon became more prominent around home as terrain was steep and often rough.
I really can't even say I remember seeing a non P plug, if I did it didn't register. On the positive side of things I cant really say I have had any trouble with the projected plugs, but even the busted cast piston I pulled didn't show any signs of detonation and I had to run 5 jet sizes to big to cover an airleak.
I noted in two different places, claims of more power with one or the other, I guess being closer to the center or not, could effect timing and total burn time slightly, each with its own strengths. I got a feeling alot of those engines seized after long high speed runs might have been prevented with a B8ES, with the BP8's electrode overheating and starting the preignition/ detonation process?
I am certainly gonna try each back to back when I get a chance.