New money-hole called a banshee

IGottaPee

New Member
Jan 18, 2011
98
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Clemson, SC
Well my wallet will be homicidal one it hears i am getting a 'shee. I am looking at one with fmf or Toomey pipes (jetted correctly). Any mods to conceder immediately?
 
The first and by far most important mod you need is a case saver. Banshee's will throw chains if the chain is neglected or not tensioned properly. Be sure to check the engine cases around the countershaft for chunks missing, splits, or cracks before even buying the Shee. Many times, chain damage is minor or just makes things look ugly. But a flying chain can crack the cases and you don't want a Banshee with a set of cases held together with JB Weld. My old '89 Banshee had its entire bottom half gooped together with JB Weld. It worked, but wasnt right and it leaked enough gearbox oil that I had to check it after every ride.

Other than buying a little case-saving insurance, you can get rid of the TORS and be sure to service the cooling system. Lots of people tend to neglect changing coolant.

You probably won't be wanting any more power out of that shee for awhile, so Id start my modding with the suspension after that. New front shocks will help, and you can install some fresh tires if they're needed. My. 02
 
This bike looks pretty clean, it has new tires, only ridden a couple times after being modded. Any other red flags? What mixture should i run in it?
 
32:1, in most cases, is fine. Mix the oil according to the directions on the bottle. 20:1 is too rich, indeed. I run AMSOIL in my Blaster, and since it calls for a 50:1 mix, that's what I run. My engine likes it and I've never had trouble with lean running or overheating.
 
The first and by far most important mod you need is a case saver. Banshee's will throw chains if the chain is neglected or not tensioned properly. Be sure to check the engine cases around the countershaft for chunks missing, splits, or cracks before even buying the Shee. Many times, chain damage is minor or just makes things look ugly. But a flying chain can crack the cases and you don't want a Banshee with a set of cases held together with JB Weld. My old '89 Banshee had its entire bottom half gooped together with JB Weld. It worked, but wasnt right and it leaked enough gearbox oil that I had to check it after every ride.

Other than buying a little case-saving insurance, you can get rid of the TORS and be sure to service the cooling system. Lots of people tend to neglect changing coolant.

You probably won't be wanting any more power out of that shee for awhile, so Id start my modding with the suspension after that. New front shocks will help, and you can install some fresh tires if they're needed. My. 02
Excellent advice sir.
Like any new bike be sure to check your ball joints for slop on the a arms and tie-rods.
 
32:1 should be fine, but no less, other than if the oil maker states differently.

You are looking at 2 x 175cc motors strapped together, so dont skimp on oil.
 
32:1, in most cases, is fine. Mix the oil according to the directions on the bottle. 20:1 is too rich, indeed. I run AMSOIL in my Blaster, and since it calls for a 50:1 mix, that's what I run. My engine likes it and I've never had trouble with lean running or overheating.

Shifting from 32:1 to 50:1 richens the fuel mix at least one main jet size.
 
This bike looks pretty clean, it has new tires, only ridden a couple times after being modded. Any other red flags? What mixture should i run in it?

Mix your gas 32:1 with semi-synthetic 2-stroke oil. Full synth separates out in cold weather. IMHO If you're not racing and willing to rebuild frequently, don't go 40:1 or 50:1 even if the oil says you can.

As Braaaaptor says, a case saver is cheap insurance even a $50 TMD

As with any quad;

1) Check the frame thoroughly for bends or repair welds that don't belong. Particularly around the rear seat mount where the pipes mount to the frame.

Put it up on a box or crate to get the wheels off the ground then check:
2) pivot bearing for wear (swing are movement side to side.)
3) carrier bearings for wear (axle tilt side to side)
4) sprocket/brake hubs tight on the splines (no rotation forward or back relative to the axle)
5) Ball joints and a-arm bushings on the front - no free play

Engine
6) Compression check - dependent on altitude. But the difference between cylinders shouldn't be more than a pound or two. Check the table at the bottom of this page: yamaha banshee heads
Granted these are #s. for fresh bores so you'll have to allow for "normal wear"
7) Check intake boots between carbs and engine for signs of cracking
8) Starts and runs smoothly through all 6 gears
9) Engine case whack around the front sprocket

10) lights and electrical; look at the harness to see if it's need or hacked up.

If anyone can think of anything i forgot to add, by all means chime in I:I
 
not much of a money hole if nothing needs to be fixed lol.
i bought my banshee for 3k plus freight.there was nothing wrong with it and i sunk around 2500 + more parts to come!! into it so far,just because i want it the way i want it I:I
 
not much of a money hole if nothing needs to be fixed lol.

So true, if it's close to stock and well maintained...

i bought my banshee for 3k plus freight.there was nothing wrong with it and i sunk around 2500 + more parts to come!! into it so far,just because i want it the way i want it I:I

Then there's always that "If You Give a Mouse a Cookie" syndrome :eek:

i want a banshee really bad

I love mine I:I
 
I to have that "if you give a mouse a cookie"/domino-effect syndrome kickin' so im sure this will become a money hole before too long.