need jetting advice

blade88

Member
Apr 29, 2014
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0
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Nanticoke, Pennsylvania
i am gettin my blaster back together.i did a slight port and polish i roughed the intake and transfer ports and polished the exhaust port there is a fmf fatty pipe kit on it vforce 4 reeds stock carb torque plate roost boost cdi.
 
Ambient temps?
Location?
Elevation?

Without that info, I'd throw out :

Pilot- stock
Needle position- 4th clip down
Main- 310

What ratio are you running?
 
Pilot 32.5
Needle in middle clip.

270-290 with airbox lid on,

280-300 with the lid off.

That is at the recommended oil ratio of 32:1.

Plug chop to confirm.
 
im at a 32.5 pilot and 280 main now i thought vforce needed smaller jets because of the increased fuel flow

thats from banshee guys saying they needed a different pilot jet.

I've flip flopped between VF's, stock, and dual petal reeds and never needed to touch the jetting besides maybe a small airscrew adjustment
 
You'll be around a 280-300 main jet . Start big on the main and plug chop . Stock pilot...needle in the middle . Start with the air screw at 1.5 turns out .
 
I don't quite understand why my 1996 stock bore blaster, with boysen power reeds, runs very good , idles good, no hesitation, has power completely threw all 6 gears using supplied oil injector system With TORS hooked up! Because Just maybe, Yamaha built it right to start with
 
Finally got it running doing heat cycles and break-in at 28:1 oil ratio but some how with it being ripped apart for a couple months I lost the lower left a arm but it seems to be doing ok during heat cycles but I think main jet is going to be a little rich
But with the jetting I'm honestly afraid of touching the air screw cause I don't know how to set it.i was told a few years back that when setting the air screw start it up and start slowly bringing it out till the idle peaks then go in a 1\4 turn and adjust the idle.how ture is that
 
You really should be using 32:1 at break in.

Adding extra oil lessens the amount of fuel in the mix and can cause extra heat...

Idle adjusting.
Set float level, make sure that all jets are clean and fuel flows freely from the float bowl drain
when the screw is cracked open.
Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.
Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle. With TORS it is the big screw under seat on top of
unit. With no TORS is is the brass screw midway down carb body.
Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a faster idle, 2000rpm+
Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.
Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs or until the motor responds.
Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .
if the air screw ends up being more than 2 1/2 turns out the pi;]lot is too big.
if the air screw is less than 1/2 a turn out the pilot is too small
 
Finally got it back running and I was told adjust air screw to fastest idle then go 1/8-1/4 turn back.right now it doesn't want to idle without choke I kinda figured it wouldnt idle.
 
Finally got it back running and I was told adjust air screw to fastest idle then go 1/8-1/4 turn back.right now it doesn't want to idle without choke I kinda figured it wouldnt idle.

no to adjusting it back any turns after finding high idle, that is where you want it to be
follow this exactly......
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/adjusting-your-airscrew-pilot-jet.51060/

skip down the first post about 1/2 way to the "to adjust the airscrew" paragraph to skip the theory and get to adjusting.
 
My air screw isnt changing my Idle much at all it comes up a little if I turn it all the way in and the main is a 300 my needle clip in middle and 32.5 piolt jet and runs like sh*t and heats up pretty quick and get really hot.fmf fatty pipe v-force reeds torque plate and port and polish roost boost cdi no air box lid
 
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