Need help assistance Bad

So left it alone like a week put the exhaust on choke 6 kicks started this time it half ass idled but was good rode around it cut off kicked right back up was good my dumb ass ran out gas this go tho because forgot half my gdllon was in the exhaust a week ago
 
Push it home got lil bit more gas rode it after 8 kicks was seeing how fast it go with car next to me got to last gear it just bogged out now when I kick it I use the choke it sounds like it's right there it just won't start then when I use choke close choke in tap gas half way thru the kick it sounds bout to start then makes the spitting noise and sounds like just wants to just won't
 
Ghe time the exhaust was full I took the top off we're spark plug goes to make sure all gas was out now it looks like it's leaking from the exhaust or the gasket right under the exhaust
 
But not the gasket I took off and put back on with spark plug
 
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Suggestions help
1, did tors delete
2 got new spark plug
3 changed my oil in crankcase
4 switched back to stock exhaust thought that was reason it was leaking
5. WANNA RIDE BEFOR THE FIRST SNOW anybody got a shop in Delaware
 
The plastics are easily interchangeable so that cannot be used to determine year. A pic of the rear brake setup may help determine year. Sounds like the float to me. I accidently left the fuel turned on on my daughters 4 stroke and in a week it filled the airbox and the engine, because the float was not set right
 
I did the float fix yesterday I only had to move it a tiny bit I ment he painted the frame so I can't see and I took the rear brake off my other blaster tht I got the stock exhaust and carb throttle from
 
You say you can see new gaskets, are the a green colour?

You removed the head to see if there was any fuel inside the cylinder, did you use a new head gasket, and heat cycle to condition it, then re tighten it to 20ft lbs?

The reason that your buddies Blaster locked up may have been because there was a problem with the carb you used.

You should not just take a carb off one bike and slap it on another and expect it to work!

The carb must be clean, the needle and seat must be able to regulate fuel entering the carb.

Float level must be set at between 20 - 21.5mm, and no fuel should dribble from it when the petcock is turned on.

What pipe was on it before you changed back to the stock pipe? You cannot just swap pipes without altering the carb jetting!

Do you know what a leak test is, and has one ever been done to the engine?
 
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My suggestion, until you figure out everything when you get it started do not try and go as fast as you can right away!!!! This motor needs to be warmed up!!! If not your risking breaking alot more and rebuilding the whole engine so STOP! You set the float to the correct level based on the links that were provided by AWK correct?

I did the float fix yesterday I only had to move it a tiny bit

Also stop switching pipes, your confusing us, pick a pipe stick with it and we can help you based on that pipe.

Suggestions help
4 switched back to stock exhaust thought that was reason it was leaking
Cleaned choke nd all hoses and jets turned the one on carb 1 1/2 cuz I got fmf pipe should I turn it more?

We need these before any help can be offered:
1: WHAT JET IS IN THE CARB.
-Without knowing what jet is currently in there, there is no possible way to figure out if its too big/small
2: When you cleaned the carb did you literally take it apart and clean everything?
3: Which pipe do you want to run!? Figure that out and jetting gets a little easier!
4: Any other ENGINE Mods done to the bike??? (stroker/head mod/airbox lid off,on,holes drilled)

When you reply please use periods, they help us understand what your writing! use a list method or numbering system. These big long sentences are extremely confusing going from one thought to another without breaking.
 
This is my first blaster so I don't know the mods besides the pipe , which is not connected well at the engine so I'm goin. To run the stock pipe until I get a better understanding of it all I know my launguage arts skills are not good so work with me
 
To expect any 2 stroke engine to run correctly the following apply.

It must be well lubricated.

The engine, intake and exhaust must be leak free.

It must have adequate compression!

The air to fuel ratio must be correct!

There must be spark to the correct heat range, plug at the correct time.

The carb jets must be chosen to suit the engine, exhaust and intake modifications made!

The idle must be then set as per specs before performing a plug chop to confirm the jetting.

Altitude, temperature and humidity will alter the choice of jets.
 
rode it after 8 kicks was seeing how fast it go with car next to me got to last gear it just bogged out

I'm gonna guess you melted the piston. The very next thing you need to do before you waste time on anything else, is do a compression test. If it's less than 100, it's toast. Do not "take it apart to look inside", without 1st doing a leakdown test.
 
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Stock from head second half fmf well combined ,
Not shore of air filter have lid with holes and stock which is preferred? Elevation sea level
 
What are you guys suggestions for getting a new carb ,and gaskets and the jet sizes
 
why would you need a new carb? A carb rebuild kit wouldn't be a bad thing. Comes with new gasket and o-rings. But jets need to be genuine Mikuni jets. Those jet kits have been known to not be the greatest.
 
K I'll look in to it but I want a carb with out the tors on it at all it won't let me upload my pictures from my phone so I got get my laptop out