Hi I just got a 1996 blaster and it idles too high. The idle screw is backed out alot. There is also no airbox. I have a 93 yz 80 sitting around, should i just put that carb on instead, because it is the same size as the blaster carb. Could it be sucking air. Is this a carb issue, or an airbox issue. Thanks for any help or ideas
My new blaster idles too high
- Thread starter wheelierider3
- Start date
when i adjust my idle it idles higher.... I Think,but im going to double check. As far as the airbox/ filter issue is, the intake manifold going from the carb to the airbox is cut. the person i bought it from got it with an aftermarket carb and was rigged up for that. And if it helps to sole the problem, the guy said he blocked off the oil injection.
I just tryed to adjust the idle, and I turned the screw all the way in and it made no difference.
out lowers the idle, counterclockwise.
is this on top of the tors box, or on the carb ?
either way, counterclockwise lowers the idle rpm.
get an airfilter on it before anything else !
I dont have the tools for a leak down test is there another way to test it. I remember my uncle spraying carb cleaner on my polaris sport 400 to see if it was sucking air. Will that help find if it is leaking
If im mixxing gas anyway, can I change the carb as long as I switch the jets right? That way I can just ditch yamahas silly oil injection pump on top.
the idle screw is located on top of the "TORS" box on all stock blasters, located under the seat, lift rubber flap and look under back of fuel tank.
this is a stock carb with tors still present.....
this is a blaster carb with a tors delete kit installed....
orange arrows show idle screw locations of each.
which does yours have ? or both ?
this is a stock carb with tors still present.....
this is a blaster carb with a tors delete kit installed....
orange arrows show idle screw locations of each.
which does yours have ? or both ?
On the bottom picture of the 2 carbs awk posted you can see a black rubber cap sticking out on the back, towards the right, make sure you have that if the oil injection was deleted. The block on top of the carb is part of a safety system and can be removed. 4 strokes can be run with an airleak without as much consequence, but a 2 stroke must be leak free or the lean condition caused will fry your piston. Get the filter fixed, any debris entering will work its way into the bearings in the bottom of the engine. Get yourself a leaktester it is vital!!
I have both of the idle adjustment screws. Ive been adjusting only the bottom screw this whole time.
tbrooks, How do I remove that block thing. Your talking about the thing that is on the carb in the upper pic, right?
Never mind tbrooks, I'm going to keep it on. Thanks Awk, I never realized that thing on top has an idle adjuster. I was able to adjust the idle down. But, now I need to figure out what to do about an airfilter.
the tors idle screw will over ride the carb located screw, as it pulls on the cable.
here's tors delete kits for removing the brick on top of the carb with a new cable and cap.....
includes new idle screw:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Blas...Parts_Accessories&hash=item2e9e30bd5d&vxp=mtr
if you already have a carb located idle screw:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Motion-Pro-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item5b02aab1d8&vxp=mtr
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