Multiple issues

Nov 9, 2018
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So, just did a full rebuild on an 89. All new bearings and seals all the way around. Bored and ported the cylinder myself (with a little assistance from KOR YouTube). Of course tors, oil injection delete. 32:1 fuel mix. New Toomy B1 exhaust. V-Force 4 reeds. 310 main and the needle clip is in the third notch as instructed per Toomy guidelines. Anyway, I've done the heat cycles and it idles great. Seemed to not have much power and a little bogging. Air screw doesn't seem to adjust. I can damn near screw it out and still idles normal. If I screw it all the way in of course it will cut out. Yes I've done a leak test and re -tourqed the head and the jug after heat cycles. My exaughst is changing colors. And I just can't seem to get it right. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
So, just did a full rebuild on an 89. All new bearings and seals all the way around. Bored and ported the cylinder myself (with a little assistance from KOR YouTube). Of course tors, oil injection delete. 32:1 fuel mix. New Toomy B1 exhaust. V-Force 4 reeds. 310 main and the needle clip is in the third notch as instructed per Toomy guidelines. Anyway, I've done the heat cycles and it idles great. Seemed to not have much power and a little bogging. Air screw doesn't seem to adjust. I can damn near screw it out and still idles normal. If I screw it all the way in of course it will cut out. Yes I've done a leak test and re -tourqed the head and the jug after heat cycles. My exaughst is changing colors. And I just can't seem to get it right. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Screwing the air screw out leans it out. Turning it in richens the idle mixture.. Was the carb cleaned and airfilter during the rebuild? Float height set at 20.0 to 21.5mm
Needle in 3rd position . adjust air screw to get highest idle. Start at 1 1/2 turns out from a lightly seated position. Then. Turning in 1/2 turn adjustments in or out. Wait 15 or 20 seconds between each adjustment for engine to catchup.To achieve highest idle. And plug chops to confirm main jetting. Do you have a picture of sparkplug?
 
So, just did a full rebuild on an 89. All new bearings and seals all the way around. Bored and ported the cylinder myself (with a little assistance from KOR YouTube). Of course tors, oil injection delete. 32:1 fuel mix. New Toomy B1 exhaust. V-Force 4 reeds. 310 main and the needle clip is in the third notch as instructed per Toomy guidelines. Anyway, I've done the heat cycles and it idles great. Seemed to not have much power and a little bogging. Air screw doesn't seem to adjust. I can damn near screw it out and still idles normal. If I screw it all the way in of course it will cut out. Yes I've done a leak test and re -tourqed the head and the jug after heat cycles. My exaughst is changing colors. And I just can't seem to get it right. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
If I remember correctly, and Sly can correct me if I'm wrong, but a properly jetted carb with a NEW exhaust should turn the pipes a bronze-ish color.
If it's too lean, it will turn blue in more spots than at the exhaust flange/mating surface.

For instance, I had a Kawasaki Mojave with a full DG exhaust with stock jetting. Why? Because the quad was free.
Anyways, because the air-fuel mix was always lean, the header pipe was a distinct blue color.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. So it sounds like the pipe is supposed to change colors. I have an 03 fully done up with a vitos fat basterd and its the same color as when it was brand new. No color change at all.
I have tried to adjust the air screw for highest idle but it stays at the same idle speed from 3/4 of a turn to almost all the way out. I had the carb all the way disassembled and cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner. Yes like I said before the needle clip is on the third clip position. Haven't done any plug chops or even looked at the plug due to the fact that the air screw doesn't seem to be effecting the idle. Now my float hight may not be exactly in spec. It was leaking fuel due to the float at incorrect hight so I adjusted it until it stopped running out the drain. Guess I'll take the carb back off and take it all appart again, put it in the ultrasonic cleaner, adjust the float hight to spec and try again. Oh, and I forgot to mention I have a CFM air box with K&N fiter.
 
Thanks for the reply guys. So it sounds like the pipe is supposed to change colors. I have an 03 fully done up with a vitos fat basterd and its the same color as when it was brand new. No color change at all.
I have tried to adjust the air screw for highest idle but it stays at the same idle speed from 3/4 of a turn to almost all the way out. I had the carb all the way disassembled and cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner. Yes like I said before the needle clip is on the third clip position. Haven't done any plug chops or even looked at the plug due to the fact that the air screw doesn't seem to be effecting the idle. Now my float hight may not be exactly in spec. It was leaking fuel due to the float at incorrect hight so I adjusted it until it stopped running out the drain. Guess I'll take the carb back off and take it all appart again, put it in the ultrasonic cleaner, adjust the float hight to spec and try again. Oh, and I forgot to mention I have a CFM air box with K&N fiter.
If float hieght is not correct. It affects all circuits.that has to be set correctly before you can move on to air screw adjustment.
 
You need to be able to blow air through all passages, remove pilot jet, make sure you can see light through it and side holes are clear, remove emulsion tube/main jet holder and clean holes on side of it.
 
So adjusted the float to 20.5mm. Seems to do better but still not great. Also found another issue. One of the two screw holes in the slide have some f*cked up threads and the screw won't go all the way tight. I assume this will cause issues with bogging or loss of power as well?
 
So adjusted the float to 20.5mm. Seems to do better but still not great. Also found another issue. One of the two screw holes in the slide have some f*cked up threads and the screw won't go all the way tight. I assume this will cause issues with bogging or loss of power as well?
You have a picture of where the striped bolts are. They will need to be fixed. Most bolts on these are small and the tourqe is low. Over tightening will cause stripped threads.or cross threading.
 
As far as a picture, I can take one next time I go back to my garage. Although I have tried to put pictures on here and it tells me there is a server error try again later. Thats even after I reduce the size with an app. I got tons of pictures id like to share but I'm not computer/ phone knowledgeable so.... Anyway, do you think the float hight is good at 20.5mm? It wasn't very far off at all really. I did adjust it and it did seem to help. Maybe I should try 21mm? Also , where should I have my idle screw when adjusting my air screw?
 
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As far as a picture, I can take one next time I go back to my garage. Although I have tried to put pictures on here and it tells me there is a server error try again later. Thats even after I reduce the size with an app. I got tons of pictures id like to share but I'm not computer/ phone knowledgeable so.... Anyway, do you think the float hight is good at 20.5mm? It wasn't very far off at all really. I did adjust it and it did seem to help. Maybe I should try 21mm? Also , where should I have my idle screw when adjusting my air screw?
You can try 21 on float? You should be fine anywhere between 20-21.5. .
Screw air screw in clockwise until lightly seated.then turn it out 1 1/2 turns for a starting point. Start it up and let it warm up to operating temp. Then from your base point.turn it. Out. Or in 1/2 out give it 15 seconds and listen for an increase in idle. It needs to be adjusted so you achieve highest idle and bike revs clean. Look up carb tuning on here. Should be a step by step
 
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Clean looking builds Jeffery
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what fixed your pic problem ? I have another member messaging me about the same issue.
PM me to not clog up your thread here
 
Just wanted to say thank you to Slydog and everyone else's assistance. I got it just about right. Just gotta confirm my jetting and I think she'll be perfect. No where near as much power as my 240 but definitely more power than original. Sometimes feels like it has low power going up hills an such although maybe I need to be in a lower gear, idk. Its got the oem sprockets and tire size and almost feels like it has a hard time pushing them tires. The higher the rpm the better tho, so... May be my riding, think I'm just used to the power of the 240. Anyway, thanks again for the assistance.
 
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Just wanted to say thank you to Slydog and everyone else's assistance. I got it just about right. Just gotta confirm my jetting and I think she'll be perfect. No where near as much power as my 240 but definitely more power than original. Sometimes feels like it has low power going up hills an such although maybe I need to be in a lower gear, idk. Its got the oem sprockets and tire size and almost feels like it has a hard time pushing them tires. The higher the rpm the better tho, so... May be my riding, think I'm just used to the power of the 240. Anyway, thanks again for the assistance.
How's your compression
 
Haven't checked it since break in. Kick start feels really good still and she fires right up. I'll check it again just out of curiosity. Also whats too high of compression? My 240 was at almost 200with the modded head. Thought that may be too high. Only runnin 93 pump gas 32:1.
 
Haven't checked it since break in. Kick start feels really good still and she fires right up. I'll check it again just out of curiosity. Also whats too high of compression? My 240 was at almost 200with the modded head. Thought that may be too high. Only runnin 93 pump gas 32:1.
I think about 160-165 is about max for 93 octane on these .being air cooled. Sounds like you almost have it dialed in