so i just bought a banshee for 1400$ and it runs, starts up, and drives good. it has paul turner pipes but stock exhaust. im wondering what exhaust goes best and fits paul turner pipes. another thing i noticed was after i rode it around for about an hour i turned it off in my drive way and it was leaking gas out of the over flow tube on the left carb. it didnt stop leaking out till i turned the gas off. it drives fine and everything though, so what would cause it to leak...float/needle sticking and not seating right? also what are some cheap easy mods i can do to it?
just bought my first banshee need advice
- Thread starter 08curranc
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You can start with a good carb cleaning. Like a Blaster, you should do a leak down test and plug chop to check getting.
right on. i figured that much. do you have any input on exhaust that go well with the pipes i have on it?
Cheap n easy usually don't go well with good but there are a few things that come to mind. Maintenance maintenance did i say maintenance? Nothing worse than messing up a good running quad with neglect.. just do the typical first. Grease, oil, lube, the basics carb cleaning leak down test, plug chop, bushings, bearings, and most of all enjoying the ride!!! 
i just got my first shee to recently and just finally got throuh with the basics and I'm glad i did.. specially the ride and enjoy lol.. but all serious all my grease fittings were dry, oil was old, bushings were worn, etc etc.. check the basics first witch u probably know. As far as a exhaust for turner pipes I'm not sure.. some one might chime in on this that has same pipes.. (I'm running fmf for both) i would hate to say trial and error but I'm not sure on those.. maybe go with the same exhaust, that usually works well...
One Pair of Paul Turner Yamaha Banshee Mufflers Aluminum with Chrome Tips | eBay
i just got my first shee to recently and just finally got throuh with the basics and I'm glad i did.. specially the ride and enjoy lol.. but all serious all my grease fittings were dry, oil was old, bushings were worn, etc etc.. check the basics first witch u probably know. As far as a exhaust for turner pipes I'm not sure.. some one might chime in on this that has same pipes.. (I'm running fmf for both) i would hate to say trial and error but I'm not sure on those.. maybe go with the same exhaust, that usually works well...One Pair of Paul Turner Yamaha Banshee Mufflers Aluminum with Chrome Tips | eBay
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Almost forgot..check coolant too I'm so used to the blasty i tend to forget the shee is liquid cooled, sounds stupid but Me personally i forget.. and also don't do the 2 to 1 carb mod. From what i have read and heard on here, it isn't worth the $ht.. so maybe a cheap up is an air box mod, up graded filter, I'm still new to these myself so in not to sure...
Do you have PT mids or hi? Not sure what you're asking about on the exhaust? The silencers? Either way they're good pipes. I think they look cool, want to talk my son into getting a set of Hi, he has FMF Fattys now.
You can do a timing plate mod, gets a nice increase in low/mid. Good aircleaner/lid removal. DO NOT get or use a boost bottle, does nothing but tear intake boots. The best, but not cheapest mod is better shocks. Just a set of standard works will make all the difference in the world.
ENJOY !!!
You can do a timing plate mod, gets a nice increase in low/mid. Good aircleaner/lid removal. DO NOT get or use a boost bottle, does nothing but tear intake boots. The best, but not cheapest mod is better shocks. Just a set of standard works will make all the difference in the world.
ENJOY !!!
I just got my first shee too. I would say get a carb sync tool and pancake bearing. I just ordered them on eBay.
whats the carb sync tool and pancake bearing and the case saver? sorry still trying to learn a lot about the bike life. but thanks for all the advice ill def look into everything that has been mentioned.
i just bought a pair of brand new not even open fmf fatties and power silencer i believe it is and dg nerf bars off craigslist for 350$ thought it was a pretty good deal since everything was unopened never used, so i bought them would anyone recommend keep the paul turners on there or just throwing the whole fmf set up on.
use the paul turners and use the fmf silencers though. if i ever had a banshee, i would get some nice pipes. k&n filters with outerwears, tors delete, shave front fenders, and some misc bling and call it good. banshees in stock form rip harder than a modded to hell blaster
Carb sync tool measures the air velocity of both carbs so you can adjust the cable so they both open exactually the same. Some eyeball them, I use my fingers to feel them (pretty damn close)(close enough for the girls I go with).
Pancake bearing goes in the clutch to eliminate stock adjuster and ball. Eliminates possibility of welding clutch ball to rod. IF that happens you usually have to split the cases to fix it.X(
As to exhaust I would say the PT Mids and Fatties would perform very simular. You might see if the FMF silencers will ft to the PTs, or just bolt up the complete set seeing they're brand new. I'd offer to buy the PTs if you wern't 2500 miles away.
Either way BE SURE to check your jetting I:I
Pancake bearing goes in the clutch to eliminate stock adjuster and ball. Eliminates possibility of welding clutch ball to rod. IF that happens you usually have to split the cases to fix it.X(
As to exhaust I would say the PT Mids and Fatties would perform very simular. You might see if the FMF silencers will ft to the PTs, or just bolt up the complete set seeing they're brand new. I'd offer to buy the PTs if you wern't 2500 miles away
.Either way BE SURE to check your jetting I:I
Pancake bearing goes in the clutch to eliminate stock adjuster and ball.
As to exhaust I would say the PT Mids and Fatties would perform very simular. You might see if the FMF silencers will ft to the PTs, or just bolt up the complete set seeing they're brand new. I'd offer to buy the PTs if you wern't 2500 miles away
Either way BE SURE to check your jetting I:I
ill have to do some more research on the pancake bearing because i have no clue what any of that really means haha. i decided to just put the full fmf set up on because the fmf silencer didnt fit the paul turners so i would have to rig something up which i dont want to do. ill prob hold on to the PT for now incase i come up on some pipes for them.
the jets in the carb right now are 320 and i feel like that is really high. the quad has k&n filter with no air box lid, the tors is eliminated, fmf fatties and powercore II silencer. the pipes came with 260 jets, so i figured id go up a a few sizes for the air filter mod and the tors. the fmf site recommends a 30 pilot too and the stock ones in it are 25 so i think ill pick some of them up. im having a hard time starting it now. it seems to start every once in a while but somethings def wrong. when i bump start it it starts up fine and drives great all day long but as soon as you stall it or turn it off theres no kick starting it. i put new plugs in it but i havent set the gap on them yet so that could be a problem i think? carbs are clean,float,needles good. im gonna try smaller mains an bigger pilot jets tomorrow and gap the plugs.im also doing an airleak and compression test on it tomorrow so ill know a little more about it soon
Chariot Clutch Pusher Pancake Bearing Yamaha Banshee Stock Aftermarket Clutch | eBay
Good explination : http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/pancake-bearing-50529/ where and how you ride might determin if you think you ned it. Majority of the time you have to split the cases if it welds.X(
Ditch the boost bottle. It adds no performance and only cracks the carb boots = air leak = BOOM !!. Either get stock crossover tube or I used right size PVC caps sealed with 3bond+clamps. Will run just fine without crossover.
As to jetting, it's best to change one thing at a time. Use the 30 pilots, it should help with starting. Then after you get air screw adjusted see how it runs and or plug chop or "read" the plugs. My son's 'shee has FMF "Signature" pipes (early fatties) 310 main 27.5P, 70+*, high humidity, 1000' elev. Might be tad rich but it's better to leave a horse or two in the barn than to leave a hole in your piston Try the 320 again, does it not run good with it? Go down one size at a time.
I didn't know FMF called for 30P, I went with what was recomended on another site, though I had been thinking ov bumping up to 30s as it is hard starting if it's been sitting for more than couple days, fine otherwise.
Good explination : http://www.blasterforum.com/engine-13/pancake-bearing-50529/ where and how you ride might determin if you think you ned it. Majority of the time you have to split the cases if it welds.X(
Ditch the boost bottle. It adds no performance and only cracks the carb boots = air leak = BOOM !!. Either get stock crossover tube or I used right size PVC caps sealed with 3bond+clamps. Will run just fine without crossover.
As to jetting, it's best to change one thing at a time. Use the 30 pilots, it should help with starting. Then after you get air screw adjusted see how it runs and or plug chop or "read" the plugs. My son's 'shee has FMF "Signature" pipes (early fatties) 310 main 27.5P, 70+*, high humidity, 1000' elev. Might be tad rich but it's better to leave a horse or two in the barn than to leave a hole in your piston
Try the 320 again, does it not run good with it? Go down one size at a time.I didn't know FMF called for 30P, I went with what was recomended on another site, though I had been thinking ov bumping up to 30s as it is hard starting if it's been sitting for more than couple days, fine otherwise.
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Ditch the boost bottle. Either get stock crossover tube or I used right size PVC caps sealed with 3bond+clamps. Will run just fine without crossover.
As to jetting, it's best to change one thing at a time. Use the 30 pilots, it should help with starting. Then after you get air screw adjusted see how it runs and or plug chop or "read" the plugs. My son's 'shee has FMF "Signature" pipes (early fatties) 310 main 27.5P, 70+*, high humidity, 1000' elev. Might be tad rich but it's better to leave a horse or two in the barn than to leave a hole in your piston
I didn't know FMF called for 30P, I went with what was recomended on another site, though I had been thinking ov bumping up to 30s as it is hard starting if it's been sitting for more than couple days, fine otherwise.
im going to run an air leak test and if it isnt leaking im gonna leave the boost bottle. if it is leaking ill get rid of it.
im at 1300 elevation where the weather is usually 70+ but no humidity. ill try leavingthe 320 in and step the pilot up because when i bump start it it runs great and idles great i can smell it runs a little rich but id rather be a little rich especially with the forged piston.
i got the fmf recommendations from the site Rider Support - Jetting Center - FMF Racing
so i ran an air leak test and there are no leaks in the system. i also ran a compression test and the compression seems to be ok too the left side was about 130 and the right side was about 140-145. that being said im gonna go to the shop and pick up some bigger pilot jets and hopefully that solves the starting problem. i still feel like the 320 mains might be too big because it smells really rich so i might jump down a size if it still having a problem after the pilots get switched out.
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