I’m at a loss

Discussion in 'Carburetor' started by Brandonp2287, Mar 22, 2020.

  1. Awk08

    Awk08 Administrator Staff Member Technician

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    This needs capped off, if the oil line is still attached, cut it loose and cap with 1/8" vacuum cap
    or let the hose an inch long, hit it with a little squirt of rtv and put a tight fitting screw in it.
    if this port is sucking air, you never get it jetted, even if the line to pump is still connected, it can suck air if oil is not being pumped to it.

    [​IMG]
     
  2. Brandonp2287

    Brandonp2287 Member

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    So got a lot done this evening but not quite finished yet.

    what carburetor picks do yaw use? My buddy has a set of picks that use like wires or bristles or something, do yaw know what they’re called?
     
  3. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Tip cleaner for a torch?do you have any wire?12 or 14 gauge?cut a 2 inch piece. And pull a single strand of the wire out of the insulation.and it will fit in all the little holes in the carb and jets. Brake clean. Thru all holes and compressed air if available.the wire works well.i do it all the time
     
  4. Brandonp2287

    Brandonp2287 Member

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    Got tip cleaners. And plenty of air. I do fine cleaning them I think lol. His set has 1/4” square metal handles, and each one is a different size wire. They work really really well for going into ports and around corners and stuff you can’t see. Oh well, I’ll fine em eventually. Thanks sly. Update on the blaster comin soon.
     
  5. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    A riding update hopefully
     
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  6. Brandonp2287

    Brandonp2287 Member

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    No bueno. Carb leaks fuel even after the
    Q-tip clean. So, I didn’t order the float needle hopin it would be good with a clean. Bad gamble. I’ll order it now‍♂️‍♂️.
     
  7. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Q-tip and aluminum polish or toothpaste .keep going till q-tip is clean. Then clean all residue. Rubber on float valve could be bad.ethenol fuel is brutal on carbs.if left to evaporate it leaves a residue behind
     
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  8. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Are you setting float hieght correctly? Very important to set at right height or it will throw your hole jetting off
     
  9. Brandonp2287

    Brandonp2287 Member

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    Far as I can tell. I’ll tear it back apart tomorrow and post some pictures. I’m almost to the point of buy a whole new carb and slapping a 300main in it. I mean, a float valve and seat Yamaha oem is about $30, a whole new carb is $100..are those two parts a third of the carb itself
     
  10. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    Nothing wrong with the blue needle IF you have their Fat Bastard pipe. Other pipes have different jetting needs.
     
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  11. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    Make sure you get a new needle seat and the O-ring for the outside of the seat. Those go to hell because of the alcohol in the fuel
     
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  12. Brandonp2287

    Brandonp2287 Member

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    I’ve got FMF pipes, so the blue needle is useless to me.

    Anyone on here want the blue needle? I’d give it to ya, well probably mail it. But if someone on here needs it I’d be happy to help.




    I’m debating on buying a needle and seat or a whole new carb. It’s the factory carb. 2004, so it’s got some age. I’m sure a more experienced carb guy could make it right, but I’m new to tuning carbs. Any mechanical work I’m usually good at, and I’m a machinist by trade. I’ve just never had to tune a carb myself. Always had a buddy or coworker who do it. But time to learn myself.


    Thoughts on buying needle and seat vs whole new carb guys?
     
  13. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Check out jetsrus.they have all the oem carb parts.maybe check price differences? Maybe check float good too make sure it's not cracked or has fuel in it which will cause flooding also.as far as which way to go. That is up to you.. But if you buy new make sure it is set up for the blaster engine. Think#6 slide? Whatever the factory needle is.(which you now know stock needle works with your pipe):D. And you still have to buy buy. 270,280,290,300 main jets. What im saying is either way is you still have to jet.so add that to your money#'s
     
  14. Brandonp2287

    Brandonp2287 Member

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    Already have the jet kit. Gonna get needles, check float itself. See how it goes. Thanks again guys.
     
  15. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    No problem. Getrdone:cool:
     
  16. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    [QUOTE="Brandonp2287, post: 824455, member: 28838And not saying it wasn’t too lean. Not at all. But it ran like a scalded dog

    Couple things about float. Measure without gasket in place. Hold carb at about 45* angle so barely any weight on float valve needle. Be very precise. You only have 0.060” from minimum to maximum height.
     
  17. Brandonp2287

    Brandonp2287 Member

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    I’m a machinist so I get tolerances lol. Thanks guys.
     
  18. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    You’re lucky you didn’t burn it down. As jetting goes from rich to perfect power increases significantly and heat increases.
    When you go from perfect to lean power drops very slightly BUT heat skyrockets.

    As to the blue needle it is shorter but I don’t recall if the taper is different. Because of the length it doesn’t close the main jet off as much, even with slide almost closed.

    When you go to set your air screw try turning slide stop to open the slide more then adjust air, then lower slide stop to desired speed
     
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  19. Brandonp2287

    Brandonp2287 Member

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    So guys. Guys I’m not convinced it’s a carb issue anymore....I put a brand new carb on it this evening. I’ll sit there with it for 15mins-20mins thinking I’m tuning it doing everything in the exact order I’ve been told to do. Go to take off and it never clears up, like the power bands not kickin in. It hits a certain rpm and stays there, can’t get up past it. Same issue, no matter what adjustment, jet replacement, cleaning, float height setting, spark plug. Carburetor shave never been my forte but damn I’ve rebuilt Detroit series sixty Diesel engines. I mean guys I’ve tried every single thing I can imagine. I swapped stators with my buddies running bike. No good. Getting ready to swap coils and see what that does. So when I rebuilt the motor, i took a lot of obsolete stuff off the bike. Including some wires. I found this wiring diagram on another thread, and wired my bike by it. See any issues with it? I found one. My stator has a green/white wire coming out of it. The bike won’t run unless the black wire and the green/white are tied together. I ran the black to a ground and left the green/white unhooked and it wouldn’t start. Tied em together and it fired right up. Guys I’m stumped and seriously discouraged with what was supposed to be Like a brand new bike.
     

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  20. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Is exhaust sealed tight at cylinder? If you already checked reeds i would run a compression check.and a leakdown test. What's the plug look like color wise.
     

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