Do you have something covering the hole where pump was? Plug/cap the nipple on carb? As to the rest I don't understand what you're asking/saying. I'm not reading the whole thread to translate.
How To Remove Oil Injection Without A Block Off Kit
- Thread starter FasterBlaster22
- Start date
Do you have something covering the hole where pump was? Plug/cap the nipple on carb? As to the rest I don't understand what you're asking/saying. I'm not reading the whole thread to translate.
thats the question i have do i cover it from the case or inside the case where the pump would sit
Only two ways I'm aware of is either a block off plate http://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/home.php?cat=243 or simular to this: http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/injector-block-off-clean-3-a-31229/ where you gut the pump and re-install it. Hopr this helps.
The nipple on the carb must be plugged before you start it.
A lean mixture will result in overheating, leading to destruction.
Slide out the small rod to release the gear
You may have to remove some cir clips i dont remember
You may have to remove some cir clips i dont remember
This Is What I Got. I Dont See Any Clips, Only The Gear Moves In And Out.
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I'll post some pics of the clutch side process for the DIY way... As for the oil injection port on the carb, you won't seize your engine it will just be an open unfiltered hole allowing crap in your carbs. I took a soldering iron heated up the nipple and filled the hole with solder, but any gas/oil resistant RTV will work or a vacuum cap as stated earlier.
You better back up that statement with the guarantee that you will fix anyone's engine free of charge after they fry their top end.
Leaving that nipple open will create a dangerously expensive lean mix.
Please lay off the crap advice!
I honestly do not see how it would cause such an extreme lean condition as to cause it to melt a top end if that were the case you would perform a leak test with the carb mounted... On top of that the hole is on the bell side of the carburetor. I also fail to see your logic on me buying everyone top ends when they burn them up... Most dipshit beginner wrench monkey won't do a leak-down test and it's the same idiot that won't plug the hole, but it's not gonna blow it
I beg to differ, non sealing if the injection nipple will create a very lean condition.
It is not possible to do a leak test with the carby on as the pressure will escape through various places.
And notice I say leak test, not leak down test as performed on 4 strokes, there is a major difference as 2.strokes are tested by applying pressure to the carb boot, not the plug hole.
If you tell people that it is ok not to plug the injection nipple and all that will happen is a little dirt will get in there, that is very irresponsible advice and anyone takes your advice will fry a top end and you will be to blame!
The orifice of the injection has direct access to the crankcase and if left open will allow enough air in to totally destroy the air fuel ratio.
Before you come on BF offering advice that is wrong, do some research, as you obviously know nothing about what you talk about.
It is not possible to do a leak test with the carby on as the pressure will escape through various places.
And notice I say leak test, not leak down test as performed on 4 strokes, there is a major difference as 2.strokes are tested by applying pressure to the carb boot, not the plug hole.
If you tell people that it is ok not to plug the injection nipple and all that will happen is a little dirt will get in there, that is very irresponsible advice and anyone takes your advice will fry a top end and you will be to blame!
The orifice of the injection has direct access to the crankcase and if left open will allow enough air in to totally destroy the air fuel ratio.
Before you come on BF offering advice that is wrong, do some research, as you obviously know nothing about what you talk about.
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You just said it your self you can't do a leakdown with a carb attached because it will leak... There are overflow/vent holes all over the carb the only place the leak matters is at the venturi... The opposite side of the bell... The side that plugs into the intake boot. Do some research before I give advice? You don't know me or my abilities on a machine, please provide some hard facts that that hole (which is NO different then a overflow port) if left open can cause a lean condition lean enough to melt a piston... I'm willing to bet there is no proof of your theory
I hate to say it, but I'm gonna side with the new guy here. I've never worried about where that port goes. I've always just capped it off or thrown the stock carb in the scrap pile and put on a Keihin. I always just assumed that the passage made it's way to the motor side of the slide, hence causing an air leak if left open. I just looked over a stock carb from my scrap pile and realized that the port is indeed routed to the air cleaner side of the slide. So, the oil just sprays into the incoming air and goes under the slide and into the motor. Hence, it is not a source of raw air if left uncapped. As the new guy mentioned, it will allow a small amount of dirt to enter the motor.
Do I have Egg on my face, yes I do!
The oil injection is on the air cleaner side of the slide!
I feel that an apology is in order, as I have been under the impression from listening to advice from others, that the oil was injected to the crankcase side of the carby.
I had never taken the time to investigate where the oil was injected, and it looks Bluesman has.
I hang my head in shame and offer HillBillyES my profuse apology.
I admit that I have fallen into the age old trap of listening to advice with out testing the water myself!
If anything good has come out of this argument, I just checked my carby and the oil injection nipple is missing its cap.
Although the nipple, if left uncapped will provide an air leak into the intake, which is not desirable.
The oil injection is on the air cleaner side of the slide!
I feel that an apology is in order, as I have been under the impression from listening to advice from others, that the oil was injected to the crankcase side of the carby.
I had never taken the time to investigate where the oil was injected, and it looks Bluesman has.
I hang my head in shame and offer HillBillyES my profuse apology.
I admit that I have fallen into the age old trap of listening to advice with out testing the water myself!
If anything good has come out of this argument, I just checked my carby and the oil injection nipple is missing its cap.
Although the nipple, if left uncapped will provide an air leak into the intake, which is not desirable.
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i think the whole point is you should block off the nipple
the kit comes with it
you dont want dirt or water entering if possible
which @HillBillyES did express in his first post.
i do recall @OConnor Racing posting that he rebuilt an engine,person did not block off nipple,dirt found its way in and damaged the engine.
as far as the extra air being in the mix/since the cylinder slash piston PUMP is sucking from the reeds/carb/air filter..
not sure and ...people do worse then that on here..then come on a say ohh my blaster has this and that problem.
dirt becomes 'liquid sand paper' in your cylinder or wherever it touches moving parts/oil dirt..good rubbing compound
the kit comes with it
you dont want dirt or water entering if possible
which @HillBillyES did express in his first post.
i do recall @OConnor Racing posting that he rebuilt an engine,person did not block off nipple,dirt found its way in and damaged the engine.
as far as the extra air being in the mix/since the cylinder slash piston PUMP is sucking from the reeds/carb/air filter..
not sure and ...people do worse then that on here
..then come on a say ohh my blaster has this and that problem.dirt becomes 'liquid sand paper' in your cylinder or wherever it touches moving parts/oil dirt..good rubbing compound
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