HELP...

Discussion in 'Engine' started by Mr fix it, Nov 25, 2019.

  1. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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    I know theres a million threads on no start problems. I e gone through so many with no help to be found. Here it is. I took a blaster in o. Trade for some work I did, guy said it runs bit needs some reed valves. So I replaced them , also replaced the drain valve, fuel line, has a new carb. Has good compression , new spark plug (br8es) and a nice fat blue spark. Its dosent even try to start. Just kicks and kicks And kicks and dosent even act like it wants to start. I pulled the plug and put some prix InThe jug, reinstalled the plug and it just kept kicking and kicking and dosent even try. Al start . Im Almost ready to take the rest of this vp race gas and poor it on The blaster and have a non fire.
     
  2. Lilstank69

    Lilstank69 New Member

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    There can be a lot of possibilities as to what the problem could be. One problem I’ve had is the coil being waaaaay out of spec. It got spark, but not at the right times. Grab yourself an ohmmeter, and the resistance should be between 1.44 to 1.76 ohms. Not sayin this will be the problem for certain, just sayin from personal experience.
     
  3. Awk08

    Awk08 Administrator Staff Member Technician

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    Compression test ? (with known good brand tester)

    what "new carb" ? and what jetting is in it ?
    I do not know of any aftermarket carb sold that contains the jetting our blasters require, unless it was ordered with the stock pilot, needle, main and slide in it ?
    I'd find put or find a stock carb to put back on it.

    mentioned above is spark at the incorrect time, that can only be caused by a sheared flywheel woodruff key, allowing the flywheel to rotate out of time, and then spark at the wrong time.

    And unless you have 185+ psi. compression, you don't need VP race fuel, regular 87/89 is fine for a stock-ish compression blaster
     
  4. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    What was the(has good compression ) number
     
  5. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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    Update.. I believe I have figured it out. The carb is dumping wayyyyy to much fuel In. Only reason i figured it out was because a buddy came over and long story short he wanted to see what the spark looked like. I pulled the plug and kicked It over and fuel sprayed all over everything. So I shut the fuel valve off and proceeded to kick untill there was only a fine mist. I screwed the plug back in and it tried to fire on the 2nd kick(fuel still off) 3rd kick was better and it fired off and sounded good for about 30-45 seconds untill the fuel ran completely out. I turned the fuel back on kicked it one time and it fired right back up, ran for about 10-15seconds and started to spit and sputter then died. I figured that's about when the fuel flooded it. So, looks like I'll be getting a new needle and seat and possibly a new float. I gotta test it to make sure theres no pin Holes in it. It sucks when you get new stuff and it doesn't work properly
     
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  6. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    You try adjusting float hieght.peice of trash in needle ?if this is an after market carb you need to reread what awk told you about the jetting.you don't want to fry the piston
     
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  7. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    rebuild stock carb if you have it
     
  8. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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    I dont have the stock carb, neither does the guy I got it from.
     
  9. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Maybe someone on here has one?if not pay close attention to the plug to get jetting right
     
  10. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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  11. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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    I dont know if I'm going blind or looking in the wrong g spot, but I dont see a jet size..
     
  12. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    Yeah i don't see one either? Usually stamped on the end or side.hmm Chinese$#!#!$$. You get the flooding issue fixed? List your mods .mixing oil?pipe?lid on or off air cleaner?they all contribute to where you should be on your main jet.altitude also.there are some guys on here good with jet #s on stock carbs.i haven't run a stock carb in a long time.
     
  13. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    There's a thread i think it's called .Jetting numbers the solution?Maybe read thru that.got me really close to where i needed to be after i went ported stroked big bore
     
    Last edited: Dec 7, 2019 at 8:57 PM
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  14. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    If you had fuel spraying out, it means the crankcase is full of fuel.
    Remove plug and kick over until your leg falls off. Cover plug hole with rag and let it sit couple of days.

    If bowl has a drain, run drain tube up the side of carb. Open drain, float level must even with gasket surface.

    Saw no mention of oil injection. If you don’t have it you MUST mix oil in your gas!!
     
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  15. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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    Yes I mix my own, I dont trust the boiling system..
     
  16. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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    Ok, I got me a good pair of dial calipers and I set the float at 23mm and it seemed to like it. Ive been tuning and testing and tuning and testing and you get the picture. Well something happened. Made a real weird sound In The engine.i slowed down to see if I could determine the issue and it bogged and died while rolling. I popped the clutch in 3rd and it fired right up, made it about 20 foot and started acting like it was out of fuel. I knew it wasnt out , now when I kick it it's not the same. It's like it's dead on the inside. I know what everyone is gonna say, compression check , check for air leak. So my question is, what does it sound like or feel like when the motor takes a crap? That's kinda what it felt like to me. But Im A noob with 2 strokes. Only other 2 stroke Ive ever owned was a 125 Kawasaki dirt bike.
     
  17. Mr fix it

    Mr fix it Member

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    Everything that is done to it was already do e when I got the bike. But I'll list the things Ive figured out that has been done. 1st. Fenders are butchered. None I. The front and halves in the back. Stock exhaust nit the guts have been taken out of the back pipe. Still has the yahama part number stamped on it. The tors or what ever that big block is on the carb is gone. Has some type of aftermarket reeds. 2 sets of them.. that's the only way I know how to explain it. 2 sets of triangles in there. And they have the double reeds on Each side so that technically makes 8 reeds .oh, air box. There was no filter and the lid might as well not even be there. Its cut back all the way to the bolt holes. I put a filter with a sock on it. Gas is 32:1 or 40:1 and I'm using vp race fuel. My budy gets it free from his sponsors. The rims o. The front have been flipped to where the valve stem is on the inside. I figure for a wider stance. But who knows. That's all I've figured out so far but I have a bad feeling I'm fixing to dive a whole lot deeper if the motor did actually give up. Oh and the best model of all, I made my own custom seat and cover. Gotta give it at least -8.5 hp .. i shaped the foam and covered it with some ugly fabric that I painted just to cover it up and hand drew "BLASTER" across the very back
    Colors are black and neon green
     
  18. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    How were tuning and testing?changing jets and plug chops?weird sound you should investigate that.
    Sorry but compression test and leakdown before you disassemble anything.

    You have to post a picture of this seat:rolleyes:
     
  19. Slydog

    Slydog Member

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    I see asked about ken oconner .you should give gim a call.he did my last bore, port work and head mod.man what a difference.money well spent.im sending him another cylinder.this one to get replated.does great work
     

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