Help needed with frame painting

Quingquad

New Member
Jan 13, 2010
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Kentucky
I painted the frame and arms on my quad with metal primer, tractor paint, and sealed it with lacquer. Looks great but the paint chips very easy. It's obvious it wont last long... I think my problem might have been low temperatures when painting. Do you guys have any ideas on how I can seal the frame to make the paint job more durable?

Thanks!

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prep work is the key when making a paint finish that will last

you need to make sure it is sanded very well, dont use anything finer than 400~600 grit. paint in temperatures above 60degrees, and DO NOT use 230923 coats like some people recommend, that will weaken it
 
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like u said it was probally the cold... i did my frame once and after each coat i let it sit next to my woodstove for a day before the next coat and that sh*t was ON THERE damn near pc results but not quite that good lol
 
when i am forced to paint in the cold, which is often here.
i hit it with a propane torch to "bake it on"
it has to be dry, or the paint will ignite, and keep the torch moving, i was actually amazed at how much heat it can take before bubbling occured.
seems to have worked the few times i did it.

i'd also suggest hanging parts when painting, so you can do the whole thing all at one time, let it dry for about an hour, then torch it for a few minutes while keeping the flame moving
 
well i'll amend this, so some professional painters, who like to voice their opinions in chat with their buddies,
(i'll bet your 6 freinds down there were impressed??)
instead of here where it can be discussed.............

i only flamed torched the paint in an emegency, as i had already sprayed $40 worth of paint onto a frame, as the temps dropped toward late afternoon, the final coat of clear started to turn white, like the whole red frame looked white.
in a panic to find a solution after figuring out the cold is what was causing this, my propane torch just happened to be sitting out on the bench, i figured WTF, can't make it any worse than what it is now

AND JUST FOR MY PROFESSIONAL PAINTERS "SERIOUSLY" DOUBTS AND "HEAD SHAKING".
IT WORKED, AND SAVED ME $40 IN PAINT
 
I didn't call you out, jesus. I gave my opinion, didn't feel like it was necessary to clog up the thread, but whatever.

I hope you feel better after being mister e-thug, something you seem to do all the time on here :)

edit add: just say "because I thought CARNZ was being a dick in the chat" you can mention names, i'm not offended
 
well i'll amend this, so some professional painters, who like to voice their opinions in chat with their buddies,
(i'll bet your 6 freinds down there were impressed??)
instead of here where it can be discussed.............

...AND JUST FOR MY PROFESSIONAL PAINTERS "SERIOUSLY" DOUBTS AND "HEAD SHAKING".
IT WORKED, AND SAVED ME $40 IN PAINT

dude what is wrong with you these days? people should be able to chat without u creepin and then calling them out on it. i mean seriously man this is a internet forum
 
ive been painting cars for decade and ag trailers for over a year at work. airless/air assist and electrostat.
im in nebraska and have to deal with cold temps all the time we still paint trailers when its -10 out, we use inline heaters on our paint guns.
i too have used a kerosene heat gun to "bake" small painted items that i had to have the next day to ship. as long as the paint is semi dry(non igniteable)its fine, when using a enamel, acrylic, ceramic, 2part epoxy. this also speeds up cure time.

remember most types of paint take between 2 days/a few weeks to fully cure. a few automotive finishes ive used can take up to 6 months to cure if they got cleared within 2 weeks of being painted.
 
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ive been painting cars for decade and ag trailers for over a year at work. airless/air assist and electrostat.
im in nebraska and have to deal with cold temps all the time we still paint trailers when its -10 out, we use inline heaters on our paint guns.
i too have used a kerosene heat gun to "bake" small painted items that i had to have the next day to ship. as long as the paint is semi dry(non igniteable)its fine, when using a enamel, acrylic, ceramic, 2part epoxy. this also speeds up cure time.

remember most types of paint take between 2 days/a few weeks to fully cure. a few automotive finishes ive used can take up to 6 months to cure if they got cleared within 2 weeks of being painted.

good info, have some reps !!!!
and i would have used a heat gun if i owned one, but the torch saved my ass and wallet that day, since then i have done it numerous times with good results, i have a set of pegs on my sons bike, that were painted in the dead of winter, then "flamed" and i'll be damned, there not even flaking off at all
 
Prep is really your bread and butter when it comes to painting .
Start with a bare , clean and dry surface , scuff it with 400 to 600
Grit , only paint in minimum 65 degree temps , don't paint on a really humid day .
I generally prep any paint work during winter and when summer hits then I get it done for a nice finished product . You can get even more in depth but if you are looking for show quality then really your best option is powder coating .
 
^ yep enamels and acrylics are made to be baked hard. thats what turns it into a "shell". think of it as a light duty powdercote almost.
flaking and chipping occur because of the paints surface structure cracking. usually due to the paint underneath still being fluid like, and the surface being hit/touched/moved. causing the surface to shift or crack.
however when the paint is truly cured, chipping and flaking are usually due to poor prep work. i.e. oil/dirt/dust being underneath the paint and trying to work its way out.

never handle anything thats about to be painted with your bare hands, your hands are covered in natural oils and will contaminate the surface causing "fisheye" or "orange peel".

just some tips and knowledge to make things easier. for those with less paint time under their belt.


also exterior enamel for the side of houses and such, the kind you can by at any hardware store can be used as a spray or roll on with great results, it requires TONS of wet sanding when rolled on. i have a buddy that painted his cavalier 4 years ago with it. with 40hrs of wet sanding between and after 5 coats, it looked like it was cleared. you can stand a dollarbill on the trunk and read the serial number in the reflection. the car is still perfect and its his daily driver. i can post a link to his thread if anyone is interested.
 
hey CARNZ, what are you refering to; DO NOT use 230923 coats like some people recommend, that will weaken it ive just primed my frame too, self etching primer. do you mean the hardener or clearcoat? or am i waaaaay off???
 
prep work is the key when making a paint finish that will last

you need to make sure it is sanded very well, dont use anything finer than 400~600 grit. DO NOT use 230923 coats like some people recommend, that will weaken it

Wot he said /\ /\ /\ /\ /\ /\
 
hey CARNZ, what are you refering to; DO NOT use 230923 coats like some people recommend, that will weaken it ive just primed my frame too, self etching primer. do you mean the hardener or clearcoat? or am i waaaaay off???

Your misuderstanding sir. The man is meaning don't spray can after can after can of paint. Thick paint = weak paint.
 
I say buy a $12 sandblaster and blast everything before paint. Wipe it down with a wax/oil/greese remover or acetone.
Go over it with a propane torch to get rid of any lint.
Spray 2-3 coats paint and 2 coats clear.
Of course follow the directions on the can, they all warn of spraying in low temps.
There many ways to skin a cat, this way has never let me down B)
 
like said, prep work is key. when i painted the rims on my car, i first cleaned them very well, trying to get any dirt and brake dust off. then i used scuff pads to scuff of the metal so the paint had something to grip too.

i use one layer of primer. then did like 5-6 thin layers of paint. they sat out in the sun and let them dry between each layer. after the color, i let them set over night. the next day, i used some automotive clear coat and put on 2-3 layers. i used rattle cans for the black. for the clear coat i used a paint gun to apply.

this was like 5 months ago and still no chips or anything. they clean super easy now compared to before.