Hack job issues
- Thread starter ThatGuy01
- Start date
You said you deleted the key switch, are you aware that the wires to that switch must be open circuit to switch the ignition on.
Yes, and when I bought it the first the I noticed was the black and black/yellow wires to the switch were wire butted together. Those are the throttle and carb switches... Do those need to be connected even if it has an aftermarket carb and TORS delete?
i believe the 95 blaster you just unplug the tors brain and done...
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-88-02.46159/
http://www.blasterforum.com/threads/ignition-troubleshooting-88-02.46159/
that b/w should run up to an engine kill switch which will have another lead, same color or pure black that grounds to the coil mount. if you dont have the kill switch, you will have a nice jolt stopping the engine. thats all i see you need to run the motor according to your diagram.
^thats saved for sure! And yeah is has a ether kill switch already on it but I disconnected it for now to diagnose, one wire was grounded to the orange side ground of the coil and the other was grounded to the TORs mount, how does that kill the bike?
the orange wire at the coil doesn't get grounded, it goes directly to the cdi. the coil is grounded by the two bolts that mount it to the frame. if the orange wire is grounded, no signal from the cdi will go to the coil to set the spark off.
when I get a chance, I will take readings from my coil. but the primary and secondary coil resistance readings should be close to that of the banshee manual which are, primary coil: .28-.38 ohms and the secondary coil: 4.7-7.1 ohms. or better explained on youtube, test the orange wire by setting the ohm meter to 200, touch the probe wire to the orange wire and the other to the coil. the reading should be between 3-5 ohms. that is the primary check. keep the one probe on the orange wire, set your meter to 20k. take the other probe and put it in the sparkplug cap. the reading should be within 10k. that is the secondary coil
Just tore down the harness, making it identical to the schematic above. I don't guess ALL of the grounds need to be hooked up but one for sure goes to the coil, CDI, stator, and alongside the B/W wire... The reason I was asking about the coil mount was because that would change were I grounded it and where I hooked the tether switch..
That's what I was thinking but I'm just making sure that there is really supposed to be continuity across the coil power and coil ground?!?
i tested my coil which i know is good. on the primary side the best i could get due to slight rust on the coil, on the 200k, i got a constant .7 ohms. if i clean the coil, i might get more. on the secondary side, on the 20k i got a consistant 10.6 ohms. i took pics but didn't have time.
