Geting the parts in order today

01blasterbren

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Jan 15, 2018
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I am buying a fmf powercore 2 vf4 reeds and a 280 main jet any tips any thing i might need that doaent come with these thing I'm also serviseing the clutch fluids I'm getting bel ray gear saver 80w anything will help to get peace of mind I have a 01 blaster 200 anything eles to add on please put in as well
 
Part number for plate screws and why do I need plate screws
Pay no attention, he doesn't comprehend vf4's to stock reed cages. No screws needed for vf4's. And no reason for stator plate screws if you are not messing with your timing, plus you would need a flywheel puller to get at it.
 
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Pay no attention, he doesn't comprehend vf4's to stock reed cages. No screws needed for vf4's. And no reason for stator plate screws if you are not messing with your timing, plus you would need a flywheel puller to get at it.
Ok so duelstroke what do i need can I bolt right up to stock s..t or what and jet change I know open airbox but what eles
 
Vf4s bolt on yes cut little tab off the boot tho , i have no idea what you need screws for, you dont, do you know how to plug chop?
 
If you buying reeds brand new they come with gaskets and washers and instructions to cut that little tab off your gonna wanna get some yamabond or the stuff ken o conor uses but i dont have access to that so not sure how it works, your also gonna wanna do a leak test after letting the yamabond cure for 24-48 hours
 
Ok so duelstroke what do i need can I bolt right up to stock s..t or what and jet change I know open airbox but what eles
You need to plug chop if you alter jetting..

This is the process of confirming that you are using the correct carb settings
for a efficient and healthy engine…
the process can be done at wide open throttle to confirm the main jet or at
1/2 to 3/4 to confirm the needle position.
Contrary to public belief one cannot alter the tune of a carb above 1/4
throttle by changing the air screw setting. The pilot jet and air screw setting
has little to no affect on the AFR above 1/4 throttle.
Before you make the plug chop run it is important that the float level is
correct, the idle is set correctly and there are no air leaks in the system,
otherwise the smoke ring may lie about the AFR.
WHEN ALL OF THE ABOVE ARE CORRECT PROCEED WITH THE FOLLOWING.
Warm up motor to operating temp.
Fit new maker specified plug, ride WOT ( or 1/2 to 3/4 throttle for the needle
) through the gears and hold that throttle opening in 5th or 6th gear for 10
seconds, or as long as you can safely.
Switch off the ignition and pull in the clutch, apply brakes to come to a stop
quickly.
Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.
Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.
There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the
insulator.
If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger
main jet.
If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.
I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is
worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.
You have to get up a reasonable speed so that you can get the engine to
pull strongly.
Then hold it Wide Open Throttle (WOT) for 10 secs or as long as you can.
The idea is not to get speed but to make it pull strong at full throttle to get
onto the main jet circuit.
I find I can safely do it on a short run by applying the brakes some.
If you have not enough room you can use 4th or 5th gear with good results.