First time Blaster owner and rebuild thread.

Discussion in 'Full Rebuilds' started by goodfight10, Feb 9, 2021.

  1. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Hey guys,

    2 days ago I bought a 2001 blaster for 1000 bucks, was running good, it just needed back brakes, headlight wiring fixed, and new nerf bars.

    30 mins after bringing it home, it bogged down and the kick start seized. I tried to sell it for a few hundred less than I bought it for, and after hundreds of Facebook messages in an hour, I realized I should probably keep it and learn how to rebuild. So, here I am. Learning everything from here and YouTube, have absolutely 0 knowledge on taking apart an engine.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2021
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  2. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    B7DA587C-892D-4A43-8922-E211C65D68B4.jpg 81005E5D-E699-424B-8A4F-70611FB3D004.jpeg 46348691-1077-4DD8-9096-575BFE2BDAC0.jpeg BA526DFE-FCFA-4955-8354-5923074097F8.jpeg D8EE6234-8671-4C4F-AC37-099F7343376D.jpeg DD0A32F7-165B-405A-A20B-65CA6216F823.jpeg 4ED71431-01B4-4F31-940D-8186B7596FA4.jpeg Some pics of it the day I got it home, then about an hours worth of work yesterday. Removed the plastics, gas tank, nerf bars, took the cylinder head off and then stopped. I got 3 out of 4 nuts off the jug and I think I stripped the last nut. The wrench keeps sliding off, have to figure out a way to get that last nut off now.

    The cylinder looks pretty scored. I think my first steps will be to get the piston out, have the cylinder re honed, order a wiseco top end kit and put it back together? Does that sound like a good plan, right way to do it? Thanks! Super excited to keep this momentum going.

    anything else you guys notice? Looks like aftermarket a arms on the front? Or just painted blue? Had an aftermarket kill switch that looks cut. Has pro taper grips and pad but bars look stock? Stock wheels? Don’t know much!
     

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    Last edited: Feb 9, 2021
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  3. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    So, day 2, I spent about 2 hours trying to remove the last jug nut. I pretty much annihilated it:
    805B0F50-FEC2-4DCD-8D74-0D50B44FE62A.jpeg

    Finally got the jug off. Then spent the next 2 hours trying to get the wrist pin out of the piston. Had to stop, going to order the proper tool and get it out. Until then I’ll do some cleaning of the bike. Maybe figure out the electric and why the headlight wires are cut‍♂️

    here is where the bike stands on day 2 of the tear down. Planning on sending the top end to Ken O’Connor racing and have him bore it out. 805B0F50-FEC2-4DCD-8D74-0D50B44FE62A.jpeg E5D2E0A2-590C-4931-926D-E995309F3A6A.jpeg 246DA1D9-2827-426B-9893-0FE5B66D43D8.jpeg
     

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  4. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Day 3:

    I went to the local racing shop to have my cylinder bored out. They exchanged it with one that’s already done (oem Yamaha) and gave me a WSM piston and kit to put it back together. I’ll be honest, I’m on the fence about it. I thought it was wiseco until I left. I might try and return it or ask if they can get me a wiseco.

    got home and took apart the carb and cleaned it out, also cleaned around and on the engine. Waiting for the wrist pin pusher tool I ordered, should be here Saturday. Also need a clutch case gasket and we’ll be ready to re assemble the blaster. I’m not sure I’m going to keep the blaster, so I’m not sure if I should care that much about a WSM piston..

    D49FCD9E-C700-4A6A-894A-10AB7306CD62.jpeg 5E1F1B65-054B-484F-8AD9-0236FDF50862.jpeg 3D28FA38-D215-4935-98E8-75FC39F8F9F4.jpeg 3C11925A-133C-492A-8AD6-3455BC2644FE.jpeg 25DFFA78-60C8-427B-85FA-56D57584FAB0.jpeg D49FCD9E-C700-4A6A-894A-10AB7306CD62.jpeg 3D28FA38-D215-4935-98E8-75FC39F8F9F4.jpeg 3C11925A-133C-492A-8AD6-3455BC2644FE.jpeg 25DFFA78-60C8-427B-85FA-56D57584FAB0.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2021
  5. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Day 4: Went back to the local shop that sold me those parts, and returned them. Called Ken O’ Conner up and sent him my cylinder today. Going to have him hone it out, and send me a wiseco piston kit with OEM gaskets. Probably going to be on hold for a about a week. Maybe I’ll paint some of the engine parts or something.
     
  6. Slydog

    Slydog Active Member Technician

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    What caused your failure in the first place?
    Wrong oil mixture
    Wrong jetting for cold temps?
    Air leaks?
    What's the jet numbers in that carb.
    You realy should try to figure out why the first failure happened so you don't have the same problem again.
    Do a leakdown test when engine is reassembled. To verify that you have no air leaks.
    Looking good so far
     
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  7. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    I’m not too sure. I’m leaning towards not warming it up before beating on it in the snow. I bought it, took it home, off the truck, Started it and just ripped it.

    Didn’t check the oil. The kid said he mixed it 32:1, I should have checked. Also, it was really cold out so maybe it wasn’t jetted properly.

    besides that, there isn’t any other signs of failure. There were those green gaskets on there, so maybe it had a leak. I’m replacing it with oem so if that was the issue, this likely should solve it, I hope.

    I plan on doing a leak test for sure when I’m done putting it back together. Thanks!
     
  8. Slydog

    Slydog Active Member Technician

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    Yup that will do it. Need to warm it up thouroly . before riding.
    Cold seizure.
    If it's jetted for summer time weather then you will have to go up on the main jet.
    What's plug look like.
     
  9. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    yeah, someone on a Facebook group suggested it wasn’t from warming it up, I think he was right.

    not sure how it was jetted, I just took it apart and cleaned the entire carb, suppose I’ll have to start from scratch now when I get it running.

    I haven’t taken the plug out , it’s still on the cylinder head. It looks almost new to me.
     
  10. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Day 4: I spoke to KOC who currently has my cylinder. To be safe, I wanted the bottom end opened and checked out due to the piston bits around the base of the rod. Going to send Ken the bottom end now and have him just do a rebuild of the bottom end as well as having a port, polished, rechambered head put on once it’s done.

    So, tonight, I took the rest of the motor off, drained it, and got it ready for shipping to KOC.

    4063FED6-D118-4CC8-BF98-A99C73F0FD20.jpeg 0DD25F5B-20B5-4FBF-933E-AD0FC8457C26.jpeg

    This is how the previous owner left the oil plug for me: 923B6264-8AEE-43CF-8F48-DB069F66A6CA.jpeg Had to use an impact gun and a hammer to get it off.
     
  11. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Day 5: Shipped out the bottom end to meet the top, to KOC racing. Now I plan on sanding down the frame and spraying it, fixing some little things, cosmetic, etc



    Had some more time today, so spent an hour taking the apart some other pieces of the bike. Trying to get the frame separated but I keep running into rusty, stripped, bolts.

    also having a hard time trying to figure out how to detach the clutch cable from the carb and how to detach the brake cable from the caliper. Going to have to watch a video or two, reading it is confusing me.

    A1701B14-3AB3-4ADE-B161-64E17B23D6A5.jpeg

    405C7C1B-A547-44D5-A416-521D0B037B67.jpeg

    64005836-EBD2-475C-90C8-25B476897528.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2021
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  12. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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    When I saw the one pic I thought cold seize. Cylinder has to be warm/hot to the touch before riding. You can also cold seize an engine if you go blasting down the road and it's like zero.out. You actually over cool the cylinder.

    Now you need to learn about jetting! It appears you have a stock pipe? Even with that you probably should have increased the main jet two sizes for the colder temperatures. Two strokes are more sensitive to changes wether modification or weather. Even taking the lid off the air box, better filter, PORTING, or a pipe is a modification.
     
  13. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Oh yeah, definitely guilty on that. Totally did not warm it up, got on and ripped it through the snow until it seized. Now I know for next time. My motor is currently at KOC racing being rebuilt. Port, polished, rechambered, new bearings and seals on the bottom end. Slowly building this back up the right way, and will baby the sh*t out of it!
     
  14. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Day 6: Had about a half hour of time today (Valentine’s day lol) while the wife worked out and the baby napped. I managed to get the rear disconnected finally, and all of the a-arms off. I guess I need to buy a ball joint separator because I can’t get the ball joints off. Also, have to still figure out how to disconnect the brake cables.

    PS: IDK why the photos keep rotating.


    160DC532-570B-488F-838F-7F942BC95429.jpeg FEF48121-7124-4A0A-AF7A-9032C87514C8.jpeg 30DC2AE6-0B2B-41F0-A784-412F309F0E9E.jpeg
     
  15. Slydog

    Slydog Active Member Technician

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    The port and head rechambered is going to make a nice hp gain
     
  16. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    So I’ve read, super excited about that.

    feeling really overwhelmed and over my head with this whole project right about now. Was never planning on doing anything like this and now I’m almost down to the frame o_O
     
  17. Slydog

    Slydog Active Member Technician

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    It's better to Make a plan and stick to it.
    On a full tear down.
    It's important to stay organized.
    Make a parts list and a list of what needs to be done.
    Check them off as you go

    Don't sweat it. If you need help. The guys on the forum are here to help
     
  18. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Thank you, definitely feeling more confident this morning. My plan is as follows:

    Have the frame painted by my friend who has a body shop. He said he would charge me 300. I got a quote for powder coating and it was over 500. I won’t really be riding trails that could be chipping the paint, I’m likely going to be taking it out around the neighborhood occasionally.

    Once the frame is done, and I get my motor back from KOC, I will mount the motor to the frame and secure it.

    Then, I want to work on the front. Plan to order +4 Alba a arms and install those. 400ex shock, decide what I’m going to do for front shocks and swing arm.

    find a banshee axle and a new brake kit for the rear. Possibly new rims and tires. Then I think I can star hooking everything back up.

    that’s the plan in my head, how does that sound? Thanks again for checking in!
     
  19. Slydog

    Slydog Active Member Technician

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    Sounds good
    Write it down, then you can fill in the gaps
    Remember when that frame gets painted
    (You must sand paint off to bare metal where grounds go)
     
  20. goodfight10

    goodfight10 Member

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    Cool, will do. Thank you. Typing it out really made it seem like it’s really not much to do. Especially if I’m ordering new parts.

    Also, good call. Didn’t even think of that. Thanks.
     
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