Didn't know what I was doing and put 10w-30 in my blaster, now it creeps in gear with clutch in.
- Thread starter El_cheapo
- Start date
you can use ATF type F, but the manual calls for SAE 10w-30 motor oil with no additives, I ran cheap Dollar General stuff for years back in the day, just changed it frequently.
if you bought good stuff with a bunch of anti wear additives, it may be time for a new clutch
you can try to drain and refill it but it's probably soaked in and fried
if you bought good stuff with a bunch of anti wear additives, it may be time for a new clutch
you can try to drain and refill it but it's probably soaked in and fried
I’m running 10W-30 in mine currently and have had zero issues thus far, with a change every 4-6 hours or so. I feel like I’m pretty rough on my clutch and it seems to be standing up. Throw another clutch pack in her and see how it responds! Worth the $30-45 investment in the long run anyway. You’ll have a definitive answer on the fluids debate! LOL
Well I put a new clutch in and clutch cable, and adjusted it per manual, and used atf type f.
It wants to drag a little even with the lever pulled all the way in, but I at least don't have to worry about it slipping. If I adjust the cable any tighter it's going to slip, it already has zero slack.
Oh well it's good enough, just a little hard loading it into my truck bed, I can't actually shift while holding it at a standstill I just have to kill it.
it's been more of a project than I wanted or expected but now that things are right this thing brapps, it'll smoke my riding buddies utility suzuki 700 on the low end and he has just a hare of top speed on me.
It wants to drag a little even with the lever pulled all the way in, but I at least don't have to worry about it slipping. If I adjust the cable any tighter it's going to slip, it already has zero slack.
Oh well it's good enough, just a little hard loading it into my truck bed, I can't actually shift while holding it at a standstill I just have to kill it.
it's been more of a project than I wanted or expected but now that things are right this thing brapps, it'll smoke my riding buddies utility suzuki 700 on the low end and he has just a hare of top speed on me.
you adjusted the internal rod adjustment so the actuator pointer is on the notch ? (it's in the manual, cable disconnected while doing it)
the only reason there is an adjuster on the clutch lever is to adjust for cable stretch, not clutch function
the only reason there is an adjuster on the clutch lever is to adjust for cable stretch, not clutch function
Yes I did, if I have the cable adjusted to allow it to go all the way back to the mark it's pushing a little power through in gear with the lever pulled all the way. If I were to over tighten the clutch cable so it can't return to the mark I'm sure it would slip.you adjusted the internal rod adjustment so the actuator pointer is on the notch ? (it's in the manual, cable disconnected while doing it)
the only reason there is an adjuster on the clutch lever is to adjust for cable stretch, not clutch function
Sounds like ridges on the clutch basket possibly? I'm not too worried about it I'm just happy to be riding. Also if I open it up too many more times that rods going to be stripped out where you put a Phillips.
I think your problem is how you're adjusting it. With cable with plenty of slack. Then use screw and locknut on pressure plate to align arrows.
While riding is great, things not correct will become annoying and could cause wear. Your clutch dragging is wearing each time it's pulled.
While riding is great, things not correct will become annoying and could cause wear. Your clutch dragging is wearing each time it's pulled.
I didn't have the cable connected when I adjusted the rod, if I were to do so and give it plenty of slack as you describe it would have to be adjusted so it does not line up with the mark. I'm kind of blaming the cable it doesn't have to adjustment points like the old one where it had a couple nuts next to the bracket that connects to the engine instead it just kind of slips into that bracket and the only adjustment point is on the clutch lever I'm thinking the cable is just plain not long enough.
Have you inspected the clutch throw out arm? If we'll worn it won't adjust to specs. At this point I wouldn't worry about lining up the marks as much as just making it work. If you have clutch cover off to adjust, back the screw off or out so you can pull the arm out and inspect it. I've seen on Banshee HQ where some have to adjust clutch without lining up the marks.
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