Cont. Carb issues

Ok ya i never cleaned the pilot. Ive also heard its not a bad idea to stick something down the hole to remove anything at first. Tomorrow ill try and get that done. Just curious, what does adjusting the needle clips do?

The #32.5 pilot jet in conjunction with the idle screw and air screw controls the idle speed and AFR up to 1/4 throttle where the needle takes over.

The needle and needle jet plays a major part on the AFR from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, at 3/4 throttle the main jet comes into the scene up to WOT.

Raising the needle clip weakens out the mix, 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, while lowering the clip richens.

The float must be set correctly.

Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.

7580-user5502-pic7361-1341402759.jpg


7362-float-tang.jpg


Then the idle must be set.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

Needle on middle clip, #290 main and plug chop to confirm.

Plug chop.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.


Heres one posted by Awk a while ago, this is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg
 
Only mod on it is a full fmf. And i live in kansas city so i wont have to deal with the elevation factor. What pilot would you recommend? Oh and it DOES NOT have an air leak

What were the results of the leak down test, how long did it hold 7psi?

Ok ya i never cleaned the pilot. Ive also heard its not a bad idea to stick something down the hole to remove anything at first. Tomorrow ill try and get that done. Just curious, what does adjusting the needle clips do?

The #32.5 pilot jet in conjunction with the idle screw and air screw controls the idle speed and AFR up to 1/4 throttle where the needle takes over.

The needle and needle jet plays a major part on the AFR from 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, at 3/4 throttle the main jet comes into the scene up to WOT.

Raising the needle clip weakens out the mix, 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, while lowering the clip richens.

The float must be set correctly.

Float level should 20 to 21.5mm on a stock carby.



7580-user5502-pic7361-1341402759.jpg


7362-float-tang.jpg


Then the idle must be set.

Idle adjusting.

Start with air screw 1.5 turns out.

Set idle screw so that it has some sort of idle.

Warm up motor and then set idle screw for a fast idle.

Adjust air screw either way to get the fastest idle.

Adjust air screw a little at a time leaving 10 secs to allow the motor to respond.

Re adjust idle screw for desired idle .

Needle on middle clip, #290 main and plug chop to confirm.

Plug chop.

Warm up motor to operating temp.

Fit new B8ES plug, ride through the gears and hold WOT in 5th or 6th gear for 10 seconds, or as long as you can safely.

Switch off the motor and pull in the clutch, roll to a stop.

Take the plug out and replace the old one for the ride home.

Carefully cut the threaded end off the plug to expose the insulator.

There should be a smoke ring of a cardboard or biscuit colour around the insulator.

If it is non existant or a very light colour, you are lean and require a larger main jet.

If it is a lot darker you are rich and may go down a size in main.

I prefer to run a little on the darker side, I may loose a little power but it is worth it for the peace of mind that I won't need a rebuild so soon.


Heres one posted by Awk a while ago, this is a good to go plug.

2wr2fwo.jpg



This one is a little rich, but I would run it, I like to be on the safe side.

plug152mainmediumoi2.jpg
 
Floats are set correctly, it held about 10 min

check the insides of the cast posts, where the float pin goes thru, i had a stock carb develop grooves there from the float bracket riding against it, floats worked and were set to specs on the bench, but when on the bike and full of fuel would hang up everytime, drove me nuts for 2 days till i noticed the grooves, filed them flat and all was good

just something else to check ?
 
Alright well thanks everyone. I'll check on all that this evening and post pics and a vid and update everyone. Thanks!!!
 
She runs!!!! It idles just fine now and I pulled a few wheelies in the yard. I think my problem was the other two little jets that I hadn't cleaned were clogged. Thanks for all the info guys!! Now to tackle my next task: the clutch
 
I have a 2000 yamaha blaster with a 240 kit i bought a carb off ebay it starts idlea fine aoon as i put it in gear and give it gas it dies but if i ease the gas a little it goes but when i try to hit it it will die i have no air leaks i took my filter box off ahould i jet the carb if what size my reeds are good to im lost on this 2 stroke i even set the air screw to 2 turns out