Clutch Kit Options

Discussion in 'Engine Parts' started by Blaner, Sep 5, 2018.

  1. Blaner

    Blaner Your Friendly South African Ambassador

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    Good day chaps. Been a while since ive dabbled in "forum-ing" Still feels like home with some familiar faces still floating around.

    For those of you that recal, I have a WR200 3XP motor i am busy reconstructing, the project has been on ice for a long time, with the business of twins arriving last year, hectic work committments and the like I just havent had the resources to tackle this project.

    I am thinking I should get a new clutch set for this motor, Now the clutch is a straight swap out with the blaster bits, Looking on Ebay, I see, EBC, Barnett, Tusk, Ideal , Vesrah and some no name cheapies. I currently have a Dirtworks kit in the YFS motor, but have had issues with the plates sticking together.

    Any suggestions on a good kit that wont bind or slip!

    Shot buddies
     
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  2. Larry's Shee

    Larry's Shee Active Member

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  3. Blaner

    Blaner Your Friendly South African Ambassador

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    Hi larry, must admit, I made an error about the "Dirtworks"Dont know what that is, but I currently have a Drivelines clutch. Its been ok, but I have had issues with it. It has solid steel plates and a full sized fibre instead of the mini one. All good, except the soild plates tend to glue together and cause binding. will have a look at the vitos
     
  4. Awk08

    Awk08 Moderator Staff Member Technician Forum Supporter

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    The Driveline HD is the best clutch I've ever had, but I do run the Mobile1 4t 10w-30 oil Driveline recommends, it does hang up a little during warm up, but is fine after that and has never slipped, and the clutch cover has had zero clutch material laying in it the few times I've had it off since
     
  5. Blaner

    Blaner Your Friendly South African Ambassador

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    So what about the Barnett Kevlar Plutonium titanium magnesium with extra vitamin c setup? I know some guys run them?
     
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  6. Awk08

    Awk08 Moderator Staff Member Technician Forum Supporter

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    Drivelines info..............

    This kit was specifically designed for a Blaster with a 240 kit/stroker crank or heavily ported stock cylinder. We are very aware of the H.P. the Blaster is capable of making with all the mods that are available for this quad. We took our STD heavy duty clutch kit with the extra friction plate and added springs that are 25-30% stiffer (compared to 10-15% STD kit) to help handle the higher H.P. Blasters. This kit can be used for all around riding and or drag racing.This kit is proven to be the best clutch kit available for a modified Blaster.

    We have been an ATV Dyno tuning facility since 1999. During this time we have logged over 15,000 Dyno runs on ATV’s. From the beginning, the most common thing we saw from quad to quad was that the clutch would slip under heavy load. This is instantly noticed when a quad is being Dyno'd, because the rear of the bike is strapped down to the drums on the Dyno so that the tires do not slip and you can register horsepower.

    When the tires are unable to spin freely like they do in the dirt, the entire load of the motor is held solely by the clutch. If it is weak, poor quality or badly worn it will break loose and the motor will rev up and the quad can’t put all the power to the ground.



    1. We use cork style friction plates with a metallic base. We have tried all the different friction compounds available and these were the most durable. Kevlar type frictions had good wear properties but glazed over very quickly and started slipping compared to cork.

    2. The steel plates are the most important component in the strength and durability of a good quality clutch kit. Our steels are smooth on both sides and full size unlike the half moon shaped stock steel plates, most clutch kits have “dimpled” or “textured” steel plates. THESE STEEL PLATES DO NOT LAST AS LONG AND DO NOT HOLD AS MUCH HORSEPOWER AS SMOOTH PLATES. "Dimples" are concave in shape and reduce surface material and contact area causing the clutch to slip easier. We have done tests where we had quads that had a slipping clutch (the clutch that was in it was new). We took the “dimpled” steels out and replaced them with smooth steels and the clutch stopped slipping.

    3. Springs are equally important, we use a spring that is 10%-15% stiffer than stock. This helps with pressure on the friction and steel plates limiting clutch slippage.

    4. For the Blaster we have added an extra full size friction plate. This gives you the opportunity to remove and replace the larger I.D. friction plate that fits over the steel ring and wave washer and use a full size friction. This will give you more clutch contact surface area reducing slippage and capable of handling higher H.P. This kit works well with 240 big bore kits that can more than double the stock horsepower. The purpose of the wave washer is to cushion the clutch engagement, removing it has been a common practice for many years and will not affect the performance of the clutch. We still include the standard larger I.D. friction in case you want to run it. This is the only clutch kit on the market that offers you this option.
     

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