Changed Clutches. Now my sons blaster smokes like crazy

bigbuilder

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Apr 6, 2021
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Hi Everyone,

So my son and I put a barnet clutch pack. Just disks and plates. Nothing else. Other than I used type F. Instead of Gear Saver. Per Barnetts instructions.

The machine now smokes like crazy. I mean alot. Whiteish/blueish smoke. Bad smell.

I use amsoil red as always. Mixed to 40-1. Injection is deleted.

Didnt smoke before clutch. Now smokes bad.

Seems to get a little better after 10 or 15 minutes of riding.

Any thoughts on this.?

Thank you.
 
Clutch side crank seal is bad.will suck trans oil into crank area. And then it gets burned.

Make it smoke like hel.
The seals are possibly the original ones.
They can be Installed while. Engine is in the bike.
Oem seals are best
 
Last edited:
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Ok. Thank you for the reply. I ordered seals for it today and clutch cover gasket as well. Is there anything else I should get in stock to be ready?

Any thoughts on why this would turn up just when we replaced the clutch? it didnt do it before.

Also is it bad for him to ride it right now?
 
Any thoughts on why this would turn up just when we replaced the clutch

trans fluid is a thinner viscosity than the previous gear saver and the 10w-30w oil the blaster manual recommends, so it's sucking in the bad seal easier than before

I wouldn't run it until you put the new seals in, if for no other reason than sucking all the trans fluid out and frying your new clutch
 
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Ok. Would I be better to switch to 10w30 oil in there? The barnett instructions ( that came with it) said type f. Soaked for 3 minutes before. My son said it works well.

But should I change to 10w30 oil now? Or is that not a good idea?
 
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Really should wait and put the seal(s) in.
Im with awk . i also think the thinner atf really made it noticeable. It's not a bad idea to get another collar that the seal rides on also on the clutch side if it has a grove worn in it. Clutch side is a double lip seal
 
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Ok guys. Thanks for the advice. I have everything ordered but Covid delays might be an issue.

I will look into the collar today and get ordered.

Should I leave the motor in or take it out to do this?

Any tips on doing this work. I have never done crank seals on anything before.
 
Order yourself a repair manual.this will be your best friend. Clymers, chilton and Hayes. This way you have tourqe specs. As you will have to tourqe clutch basket and primary drive gear. Use an aluminum piece or washer to put between gears so you can tourqe it to spec so the engine wont turn.dont forget to remove it after tourqe.:)There is also timing marks on crank gear and balance shaft that must be lined up.primary drive gear has a keyway becarful not to loose it.
It can be done inframe.
 
I have never used ATF fluid, my Driveline performance clutches recommend Mobile 1 10w-30 full synth 4t engine oil, available at walmart and many auto parts and bike shops, and I've had good luck with it.
I don't know about mixing the 2 ? stick with the ATF unless further seal leaks occur with it ?

The factory manual is here for free ... https://www.blasterforum.com/thread...ervice-and-owner-manuals-free-download.17325/
torque specs .... https://www.blasterforum.com/threads/bolt-and-torque-specs.46155/