Carburetor.

ClayM125

New Member
Jul 26, 2021
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I'm sure this post has been been posted before but I couldn't find one like it. I just bought this 95 Blaster, and it has a new aftermarket (not name brand at all looks like chinese) carburetor that was on it and I feel like it's my issued with it. It will idle fine on choke, as soon as you take the choke off it will idle down and die, you can keep it going with flicking the throttle it's seems to run alright and is pretty quick but I haven't been around these enough to tell yet. But I was wondering if there was a different carb I could buy that would be way better for it. It's has been tors deleted from what I can see. I tried to do as much research on them as I could before I purchased it, I honestly did. But it never hurts to ask.
 
I wish I had a dollar for every post I’ve seen about these junk carbs, here and on Fakebook
Have you tried adjusting the air screw or the slide stop screw? If it had one :confused:

What mods do you have ? That will determine what you need for a carb. ALL aftermarket carbs will be TORS delete.
 
Yea, I've tried adjusting it didn't seem to change anything at all, I wish it had the factory carb on it I feel like it would be easier to adjust/get a grasp of what it needs cause there seems to be alot more info on using/adjusting the factory carb, to make it work and as far as I can tell it is all factory, it looks like someone has to into it before cause they used red RTV to seal it up (face palm) idk why they couldn't just buy a seal kit they're cheap. Was just hoping there was somewhere to get a halfway decent carb.
 
Where did they use rtv?
Go to Sudco or Jets R Us. Get either a genuine Mikuni or a Kehine. If you think you might do engine work later on consider getting a 28mm

Lots of info on tuning Mikuni or Kehine
 
Alrighty thanks you for the info, and yea I plan on doing exhaust to it that would probably be at the most right now, would a 28mm still be suitable for being as stock as it would be with just exhaust, and in between the jug and the crank case, and possibly the head, with RTV I'll have to look whenever I get home from work to be sure. I've only had it a few days, just trying to get it back right how it should be.