i just got a good buy on a 03 blaster but the guy said he was going up a hill climb wheelied over the top and it shut off . i checked the orange wire coming from the stator to the coil with a test light when i kick the motor the test light strobes . it was getting spark on and off so i got a new coil but havent put it on yet. i keep hearing off the tors but i dont know what it is or does . everyone seems to disconnect it as im goin to but id like to know what its purpose is and why i am disconnecting it . the blaster is in good shape no broken plastic it has dg full exhaust , dg bumpers , dg nerf bars , the oil injection block off kit was done and it has new maxxis razr tires and the front rims are flipped i picked the machine up for 400 so i think i did good ! please let me know what the tors is and what advantages im gonna have to disconnecting it ....thanks I:I
can someone tell me exactly what the tors does ?
- Thread starter camjames007
- Start date
Yeah, you did well on that deal, especially if the quad is in good condition. TORS stands for Throttle Override System. It is a series of electrical switches on the quad which work together to shut off spark if the throttle accidentally gets stuck open. The TORS does NOT have any affect on fuel delivery to or from the carburetor. There is also a microswitch on the parking brake, which works with the TORS system to prevent the engine from revving past idle if the parking brake is left on.
Problem is, throttle slides almost never get stuck in the real world; Yamaha basically had to install the TORS system on all their 2-stroke quads to cover their ass, in case somebody, somewhere, wrecked a quad and tried to sue, claiming that it was Yamaha's fault the throttle stuck open. In reality, Mikuni would have probably been liable for stuck throttles (the guys who made the carb), and the TORS system interrupts the spark at all the wrong times and causes all sorts of headaches.
To get rid of it on your 2003 Blaster, trace down all the switches. There is one in the thumb throttle housing, one in the big box on top of the carburetor, and one on the parking brake. Unplug all of these switches for the time being. Now, look at the 5 wires coming out from the stator plate of the engine. Find the green one and unplug it. Make a jumper wire to ground out this green wire to the engine.
Now kick the quad over with the ignition 'ON', and the TORS system should be disabled. It may well start right up; I doubt the ignition coil is bad; it sounds like you've got TORS problems somewhere. If the engine starts with the TORS unhooked, you've found the problem. If not, replace that coil and try again. If you have a steady 12v pulse from the orange coil wire, it can be assumed that the CDI system is working properly.
Once the quad is running properly, you can cut off or tape up all the loose plugs and make a more permanent ground wire for that green wire.
Best of luck! Oh, and if I were you, I would get rid of that DG exhaust. It is basically a shiny chrome stock pipe without the baffles inside. You will get much better performance with an FMF, Toomey, or F7 exhaust system. Toomey pulls hard in the upper range; F7 is a great pipe to 'grow into' as you do more and more radical engine mods (porting, stroker crank, BBK, etc...). And trust me, you will. The mod bug bites hard.
Problem is, throttle slides almost never get stuck in the real world; Yamaha basically had to install the TORS system on all their 2-stroke quads to cover their ass, in case somebody, somewhere, wrecked a quad and tried to sue, claiming that it was Yamaha's fault the throttle stuck open. In reality, Mikuni would have probably been liable for stuck throttles (the guys who made the carb), and the TORS system interrupts the spark at all the wrong times and causes all sorts of headaches.
To get rid of it on your 2003 Blaster, trace down all the switches. There is one in the thumb throttle housing, one in the big box on top of the carburetor, and one on the parking brake. Unplug all of these switches for the time being. Now, look at the 5 wires coming out from the stator plate of the engine. Find the green one and unplug it. Make a jumper wire to ground out this green wire to the engine.
Now kick the quad over with the ignition 'ON', and the TORS system should be disabled. It may well start right up; I doubt the ignition coil is bad; it sounds like you've got TORS problems somewhere. If the engine starts with the TORS unhooked, you've found the problem. If not, replace that coil and try again. If you have a steady 12v pulse from the orange coil wire, it can be assumed that the CDI system is working properly.
Once the quad is running properly, you can cut off or tape up all the loose plugs and make a more permanent ground wire for that green wire.
Best of luck! Oh, and if I were you, I would get rid of that DG exhaust. It is basically a shiny chrome stock pipe without the baffles inside. You will get much better performance with an FMF, Toomey, or F7 exhaust system. Toomey pulls hard in the upper range; F7 is a great pipe to 'grow into' as you do more and more radical engine mods (porting, stroker crank, BBK, etc...). And trust me, you will. The mod bug bites hard.
new to site. just picked up a blaster last nite for 300 bucks. the guy said it was an 80 over vitos kit with dg full exhuast, carbon fiber reeds, k&n air filter an itp rims and tires. the problem that i am having is that i had to change carbs because the stock carb was stripped were the throttle needle and the tors system went. i put on a stock carb with a 260 main jet and it willnot idle and it back fires sometime but will run hard and fast. any tips on the problem.
thanks a million bud ! im a small engine tech so im definately gonna play with the blaster but never had a blaster and from what ive been reading on here it sounded like the tors system coulda been a problem but i wanted to kn ow what it stood for and exactly what it did ! im glad i got a blaster just for this site ! this is one of the coolest websites ive ever been a member of tons of great tech tips and reviews for parts and then very helpful riders to give advice and compare parts with !!! thanks again and ill be sure to junk that pipe and get a toomey !!!!! cant go fast without mixed gas !!!
Glad you like it here! Yeah, you will find lots of good info, as well as plenty of knowledgable people. By the way, you'll like that Toomey exhaust system; I run one and it pulls hard once you get on the throttle. An FMF is also a good upgrade, especially if you like riding trails, because this pipe gives the engine a little more low-end/mid-range grunt as compared to the Toomey. My .02
Oh, and Hell Yeah for another small engine tech on here! Welcome!! Nothing like changing a couple head gaskets on a Kohler Command V-Twin to get one's day off to a bad start. Been there...
That's about right for a main jet with those mods... You're lean on the low circuit. What size pilot jet is in that carb you just installed? Stock is 32.5. You will probably need at least a 37.5 (2 sizes richer) pilot to get a good idle. Ideally, the engine should idle smoothly with the airscrew anywhere between 1.5 and 2.5 turns out, then accelerate smoothly when you get on the throttle under a load. Check the pilot jet and see where you stand. Also, is the "O" ring under the new carburetor's cap intact? It must be to prevent the engine from sucking in air and refusing to idle.
Also, it is probable that the engine has an air leak somewhere, causing it not to idle. Do a search on this forum for 'leak down test', and perform one if you can. It may save your engine from blowing a top end. It is not hard to justify spending $ 30.00 on a leakdown tester if it saves you a $ 200.00 top end.
well i started by ripping kohlers and briggs n strattons apart but then i went to American motorcyclist Institute and the American watercraft Institute before it was bought by Wyotech , i ended up disconnecting the TORS bullcrap and the blasty fired right up ! so once again thanks for the tidbit i checked all my electrical components and was stumped cuz i had good readings all around. i had toomey pipes on a banshee a few years back and i loved them so ill probably be ordering a toomey for this and starting my port and polish and bore job soon !!!!! cant go fast without mixed gas !!!!
i have to disagree with with. i have seen slides, cable, and the throttle assembly get stuck on many quads.
This sounds like you have created your own TORS prob by replacing the carb. If this is an 03+ try jumpering the wires going up to the throttle switch.
And Cam, beware that e-brake switch like braaptor said. The easiest fix for it is to unplug the ebrake switch at the harness. Normally I would tell you to jump the throttle switch like I said above, but I'm eager to see if Braaptor's grounding of the green stator wire works.
Yeah, I should have said that a different way... was thinking of new quads without worn cables, pinched cables, or dirt in anything to make it stick... After thinking of all the shoddy cables and dirty Blasters (and other quads) out there, yeah, its no doubt happened to people.
I'm reading all these posts and i read another forum that talked about getting rid of the TORS but this one explains what it does way better!!! now i have an 98 blaster is there any difference with how my TORS is? Also i was looking at the other forum and they were saying you will need to get a different idle screw. Is this true?
'88-'02 Blastys are a little different when it comes to removing the TORS system, but not much. There is no green wire to deal with. On these, just unplug all the TORS switches, cut off the plugs, and unplug the small 'black box' under the hood with the 3-wire plug. Black and Yellow wires.
This is the control module for the TORS system, and it is separate on older model Blasters, not made into the CDI box like on the '03-'08 models. Once the control box is unplugged, cut off this plug and you're done!
You only need an idle screw if you want to get rid of the large brick on top of your carburetor cap. Here's how to put this idle screw kit on, should you decide to get one. I would...
http://www.blasterforum.com/do-yourself-20/aftermarket-carburetor-cap-idle-screw-install-22174/
I have a 97 that I recently had a small rollover incident on, when I went to start it after the rollover it went wide open right away. The throttle is not stuck in the throttle housing or carb. I reconnected the tors system and it won't start unless I hit the throttle enough to disengage the switch in the throttle housing. It won't idle and backfires a lot, need some help!
Hello all! Newb here. I picked up a 98 on a trade and I'm having a few issues. I'm sure somebody here can help
I found this thread researching the issue so before I start ripping and tearing, here goes:
98 blaster basically stack except full FMF exhaust. Starts and runs good as long i keep revving. As soon as I let off it dies. Will not idle whatsoever. And also, when I'm riding, if I try to really get on it, it will kind of die off like there's no fuel going in. Zero throttle response. Then after it sits a few minutes it will start right back up just fine. From what I found across the net, I was thinking reeds and TORS? Any input on this would be awesome and greatly appreciated!
I found this thread researching the issue so before I start ripping and tearing, here goes:
98 blaster basically stack except full FMF exhaust. Starts and runs good as long i keep revving. As soon as I let off it dies. Will not idle whatsoever. And also, when I'm riding, if I try to really get on it, it will kind of die off like there's no fuel going in. Zero throttle response. Then after it sits a few minutes it will start right back up just fine. From what I found across the net, I was thinking reeds and TORS? Any input on this would be awesome and greatly appreciated!
I have a 03 blaster with new top end , can’t get it to start after rebuild, it’s firing and getting gas & has new Vito’s reeds and does act like it wants to start
