Blaster Wont Start (Tried everything I know of)

OPium46

New Member
Jul 25, 2018
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Hi all,

First time poster, but have been using this forum for knowledge for a while.

I have a '92 Blaster that just won't start. I have tried everything to get this thing running.
- There is fuel getting through (wet spark plug).
- There is compression.
- There is spark.

I thought it might be a timing issue so I pulled the flywheel off, but everything looks OK in there.

Can anyone make some suggestions? Maybe I'm overlooking something?
 
reeds good ?
how much compression ? measure it with a tester
 
Reeds aren't the best. But they are sufficient. They were flaring a bit, but I flipped them and they sitting flush now.
Compression is sitting at just over 9 bar.
 
X-2 on weak spark. Is it fat blue or lazy yellow? You sure flywheel key is in good condition? No rattles in magnet? No rust on any parts? Check that the ground wire is clean and bare metal.
 
X-2 on weak spark. Is it fat blue or lazy yellow? You sure flywheel key is in good condition? No rattles in magnet? No rust on any parts? Check that the ground wire is clean and bare metal.
Spark is a light blue. Flywheel key is in good condition. No noises coming from the magnets. All parts show no rust. I'll have to open the case again to check the ground wire.
 
Thanks guys. It was the spark plug. Changed it for a new one and started pretty much instantly. I suspect the crank seals are due for replacement, could be why the plugged fouled. Exhaust smoke is white.
 
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Thanks guys. It was the spark plug. Changed it for a new one and started pretty much instantly. I suspect the crank seals are due for replacement, could be why the plugged fouled. Exhaust smoke is white.

Yes and no. Any blaster is between 10 and 30 years old, nothing lasts for ever .
I think that they should be considered as routine maintenance at this point.
A leak down test will help to decide.
What oil and ratio are you running? That can make a difference also.

Just read your whole response. White smoke is sure sign of bad seal. I suggest not riding until fixed. To great of chance of melting the engine down. :(
 
Yes and no. Any blaster is between 10 and 30 years old, nothing lasts for ever .
I think that they should be considered as routine maintenance at this point.
A leak down test will help to decide.
What oil and ratio are you running? That can make a difference also.

Just read your whole response. White smoke is sure sign of bad seal. I suggest not riding until fixed. To great of chance of melting the engine down. :(
I'm using Yamalube IIRC. I'm not mixing my own at the moment, I still have the oil pump hooked up. It seems to be running fine for now. I'm gonna give my local Yamaha dealer a call and order the new seal kit.
 
Unless you are leaking oil from the other places I would only get crank seals, as the stealership sells EVERYTHING individually :mad:.

I've used these with good results
https://www.vitosperformance.com/atv_parts/home.php?cat=247

I'm sure Ken has something, or can get it for you also

http://www.kenoconnorracing.com

Be sure to re-seal the crank collar (I also do the keyway out of habit because that's where banshees leak)
Thanks for the links but I live in RSA :) I'm sure I could get these seals from somewhere cheaper. I'll have to do some driving around this weekend.

Regarding the leak-down test, do you reckon a compressor hooked up to a pressure regulator will be fine? Regulated to 0.5 bar?
 
Not to sound to stupid, but RSA=Republic of South Africa ??
If so I understand buying from dealer, less tarriffs from Japan than U.S.

I use this : https://www.harborfreight.com/catal...tured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=Leak+down+tester with a schrader valve in place of hose Chuck.
I use a plastic PVC pipe cap with the spark plug adapter threaded into it. You could use a plumbing tester threaded into the cap. Get a plumbing piece you can thread into the PVC cap that accepts a schrader valve ( tire valve stem core). I can't find any pics of what I'm talking about. Sorry. As far as the pressure, I have no clue what 0.5 bar equals.
 
Not to sound to stupid, but RSA=Republic of South Africa ??
If so I understand buying from dealer, less tarriffs from Japan than U.S.

I use this : https://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?dir=asc&order=EAScore,f,EAFeatured+Weight,f,Sale+Rank,f&q=Leak+down+tester with a schrader valve in place of hose Chuck.
I use a plastic PVC pipe cap with the spark plug adapter threaded into it. You could use a plumbing tester threaded into the cap. Get a plumbing piece you can thread into the PVC cap that accepts a schrader valve ( tire valve stem core). I can't find any pics of what I'm talking about. Sorry. As far as the pressure, I have no clue what 0.5 bar equals.
Yeah RSA = Republic of South Africa.

The cheapest leakdown test kit I can find here locally goes for about R2000 ($150) which is a stretch out of my budget :p

I'll see if I can fashion something tomorrow.

0.5 bar = 7.25 psi
 
On a side note, I've gotten the friction plates and metal plates out of my clutch basket. But I see the tab washer has been bent onto the nut, is there a way to remove this? I've tried to bend it back carefully with a screw driver but I cant get enough leverage without damaging something.